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A shop I deal with for rally prep just finished a batch of chromoly tubular control arms for Audis - these have chro/mo rod ends, adjustable for camber/caster, weigh less, stronger.
I'm bringing in one of my B13 front ctrl arms to look at builiding a prototype - may also look at rear as well, although I think it already exists.
Just wondering if there's any interest - i.e. if they make a batch, would any of you B13 types be interested in buying?
Thanks
Robin
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P3 Class NX2000 Rally Car - now retired - thinking about making G2 B13 Sentra
P4 Class Eagle Talon AWD - sold
1990 Miata (stock except for 1.6 BP from '99 Eunos Roadster)
A shop I deal with for rally prep just finished a batch of chromoly tubular control arms for Audis - these have chro/mo rod ends, adjustable for camber/caster, weigh less, stronger.
I'm bringing in one of my B13 front ctrl arms to look at builiding a prototype - may also look at rear as well, although I think it already exists.
Just wondering if there's any interest - i.e. if they make a batch, would any of you B13 types be interested in buying?
Thanks
Robin
Sounds like a great idea. I would like a set of these as long as they are lighter and stronger. If you know some one who is making the rear set already let me know as I am intereted in those to.
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Running custom tubular CrMo front control arms and rears on my B12 already. There are some guys here who I'm sure will be interested in the B13 fronts though (about 12 cars in a "Stock Car" series).
I'm interested. Although I don't see how you can do anything for camber or caster at the control arm. I mean, the whole arm would have to move forward or backward to adjust caster, and to change camber would mean it would have to move inward or outward from the body, which would change the length from the knuckle to the transmission, which could easily lead to driveshaft length issues. I'd prefer they be a straight out replacement for the OEM LCA's, no adjustments.
The Audi arms are going to a retailer who apparently will be moving them for close to the same price as the OEM piece. We have to wait and see how the prototype costs out - obviously a different style arm - possibly fewer rod ends.
It looks like there's enough interest to make it worthwhile to do the prototype and then maybe a small run.
If you know some one who is making the rear set already let me know as I am intereted in those to.
When I was rallying the NX, somebody contacted me about rod-ended lateral links - I can't remember the guy's name - I wasn't allowed to use them (P3 class) so wasn't interested.
If someone can't track down another source I'll ask about those too.
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TEIN HA, Cusco 4pt. underbrace, Nismo mounts, S4 cams, Pulleys, Headers, Exhaust- RSR, Sard Radiator & 1.3 bar Cap, AEM CAI, B&M short shift, SMC BABK with Maxima rears, 17" TE 37 white, 15" TE 37 bronze, Gull sport Racing seat, Willans 4pt. Harness, Axel bending by westend, JDM headlights and corner lights, Stillen rear sway bar, Greddy RAS, Thermoblock
I am in if the price is not nuts. Sounds like a good idea if it fits weill and works well
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And, I don't mind at all being looked down upon by purists. Indeed I don't mind at all being looked down upon by those whom I do not look up to at all. -
Running custom tubular CrMo front control arms and rears on my B12 already. There are some guys here who I'm sure will be interested in the B13 fronts though (about 12 cars in a "Stock Car" series).
Thanks. I did EVERYTHING myself. Plan on sending some more pictures which will have the CrMo Tubular control arms in front. Those pics show the rear tubular arms with rose joints.
Thanks. I did EVERYTHING myself. Plan on sending some more pictures which will have the CrMo Tubular control arms in front. Those pics show the rear tubular arms with rose joints.
That's a lot of work. I think the first thing listed in the Nismo Europe N14 Group N build manual is to seam-weld that fold seam on the leading edge of those OEM arms. I've bent a lot of those...
re: the earlier question of half shafts - that's a good point, except I don't think there'll be enough range in adjustability to cause a problem. Look at this pic:
photo courtesy Warwick Patterson
That suspension is at unimpeded full droop - look at the camber. This is what happens when you put 'wide body' Group A suspension into a non-motorsport Esc.Cosworth shell. The Ford Rallyesport build manual says nothing about the modifications made to the Escort motorsport shells - turns out the mounts - yes - have to be moved outward.
When we were first running this car (I'm the one in the stupid seat), it was a 300hp RWD car - with antilag... (we actually thought it was a centre diff problem at first) This photo shows it after the mounts were moved outboard (by the same shop doing the ctrl arm prototype) - and still too much neg. camber (but at least it's now 4WD). Before they were moved, the bottoms of the struts used to impede on the drive shafts at near full droop.
I'm running on a bit here, but it's interesting looking at the rear wheels in this pic - looks like zero camber. My Talon displays distinctly positive camber at full droop - not a good setup.
Sounds like a great idea. I would like a set of these as long as they are lighter and stronger. If you know some one who is making the rear set already let me know as I am intereted in those to.
Ingall's makes the rear tubular bars with adjustment in the center for the B13's if you are interested.
- yes - have to be moved outward. 
