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I went through all that work that you posted above on adding zerk fittings and the grooves in the bushings, and still am not happy. There is still too much bind and stiction. If I had to do it all over again, I would not do the ES bushings at all in the rear of a B13. In fact, I got a low mileage trailing arm from the wrecking yard, that has the really big OEM rubber bushing, and swapped that in. I also ordered a set of Ingalls control arms WITH RUBBER BUSHINGS to replace the OEM ones with the ES bushings in. I am also going to put a spherical bearing in place of the ES bushing in the hub. That should make the rear on my B13 happy again.
You are smart to just not bother with the ES rear kit.
Like Steve said, the front is OK, just needs to be regreased fairly regularly. I highly recommend the SuperPro Caster bushing for the front. The increased caster is a welcome addition on a B13. Since you are running Hyperco's and not coilovers, the caster bushings are about your only choice for increasing caster. If you leave the OEM rubber bushing on the front control arms and use the SuperPro caster bushing, you won't have any bind. With the ES Bushing in the arms, and the SuperPro caster bushing, you will have a little bind, but as long as you keep the Front ES bushing and caster bushing greased, you will be fine.
So, I would recommend the following for B13 Bushings:
Front:
1)ES Swaybar bushings, with the swaybar wrapped with sheet teflon, or teflon tape.
2)ES steering rack bushings
3)Front control arm bushing OEM rubber and replace the big bushing with the SuperPro caster bushing.
Rear:
1)ES swaybar bushings, with the swaybar wrapped with sheet teflon, or teflon tape.
2)All the rest OEM rubber.
Okay, I just ordered some greaseable front sway bar bushings from Summit (Part # 5163G) so that I can avoid the squeaking etc, but of course that kit doesn't come with the end links and Summit doesn't know which end links would fit my bar unless I buy a whole seperate kit (#75115G). Are the end links that important that it would be worth my time in sorting this whole deal out, or do the majority of the benefit from ES bushings come from the two main sway bar bushings?
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Vitamin B13: Cures all that ails you. Dosage is 7500 rpm, repeat as necessary.
WE are a community
Okay, I just ordered some greaseable front sway bar bushings from Summit (Part # 5163G) so that I can avoid the squeaking etc, but of course that kit doesn't come with the end links and Summit doesn't know which end links would fit my bar unless I buy a whole seperate kit (#75115G). Are the end links that important that it would be worth my time in sorting this whole deal out, or do the majority of the benefit from ES bushings come from the two main sway bar bushings?
Just buy the ES kit that comes with the frame bushings and endlink bushings. No real need for the greasable ones if you wrap the bar in teflon first.
I went through all that work that you posted above on adding zerk fittings and the grooves in the bushings, and still am not happy. There is still too much bind and stiction. If I had to do it all over again, I would not do the ES bushings at all in the rear of a B13. In fact, I got a low mileage trailing arm from the wrecking yard, that has the really big OEM rubber bushing, and swapped that in. I also ordered a set of Ingalls control arms WITH RUBBER BUSHINGS to replace the OEM ones with the ES bushings in. I am also going to put a spherical bearing in place of the ES bushing in the hub. That should make the rear on my B13 happy again.
You are smart to just not bother with the ES rear kit.
Like Steve said, the front is OK, just needs to be regreased fairly regularly. I highly recommend the SuperPro Caster bushing for the front. The increased caster is a welcome addition on a B13. Since you are running Hyperco's and not coilovers, the caster bushings are about your only choice for increasing caster. If you leave the OEM rubber bushing on the front control arms and use the SuperPro caster bushing, you won't have any bind. With the ES Bushing in the arms, and the SuperPro caster bushing, you will have a little bind, but as long as you keep the Front ES bushing and caster bushing greased, you will be fine.
So, I would recommend the following for B13 Bushings:
Front:
1)ES Swaybar bushings, with the swaybar wrapped with sheet teflon, or teflon tape.
2)ES steering rack bushings
3)Front control arm bushing OEM rubber and replace the big bushing with the SuperPro caster bushing.
Rear:
1)ES swaybar bushings, with the swaybar wrapped with sheet teflon, or teflon tape.
2)All the rest OEM rubber.
Thanks! I know you are the one that did the Zerk fittings etc...., I read your thread. LOL.
SuperPro caster bushing? Hmmmmm.....Google "SuperPro+caster+bushing"? I'll look that one up.
Pardon my ignorance. In the rear, I am using the Progress swaybar which has hiem (heim) link ends. So, do I need the ES rear swaybar bushings? Isn't that what the heim link end does? Replaces the bushings entirely?
Thanks so much for your expertise and help.
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2004 Tahoe, stock and fully loaded.
'93 Classic - Repaired yet? No, currently being restored. Parts up to my eyeballs.
As for the rear, you do not need anything. Reference was to the 2 bushings that hold the swaybar onthe chassis, not the end links. You do have the Progress bushings installed there.
I would recommend against doing the steering rack bushings. From what I've read its a huge PITA, unless the motor is out of the car. When I did my engine swap I went ahead and ordered them so I could do it the easy way.
I havnt done any other ES bushings yet. Alot of it I see as a "do it while your in there" sorta thing, like the steering rack bushings. The sway bar bushings get taken care of when you upgrade the bar itself. I suppose some of those other things you would probably never take off normally, like the control arms.
Shawn, did you buy the bushing set yet? I'm not trying to steal anyone's business, but I have exactly what you need, the master set minus the shifter bushing. Most of the packages haven't even been opened. PM me if interested.
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My real name is Kyle
2002 Maxima SE (6MT) -Drop-in K&N and a brand new longblock VQ35
1994 G20 - SR20VE, JWT pop, SSAC 2.5", 2.5" VRS catback
Thanks! I know you are the one that did the Zerk fittings etc...., I read your thread. LOL.
SuperPro caster bushing? Hmmmmm.....Google "SuperPro+caster+bushing"? I'll look that one up.
Pardon my ignorance. In the rear, I am using the Progress swaybar which has hiem (heim) link ends. So, do I need the ES rear swaybar bushings? Isn't that what the heim link end does? Replaces the bushings entirely?
Thanks so much for your expertise and help.
Shawn,
Check out this thread on the SuperPro caster bushings. We have a group buy on them months ago. I believe the group buy organizer is a distributor for them and can get them at anytime.
Use all the Progress bushings and links. I made those recommendations with the assumption of a OEM swyabar. Oh, use the teflon trick on ANY swaybar, so go ahead an wrap your Progress bar before installing the frame bushings.
I would recommend against doing the steering rack bushings. From what I've read its a huge PITA, unless the motor is out of the car. When I did my engine swap I went ahead and ordered them so I could do it the easy way.
I havnt done any other ES bushings yet. Alot of it I see as a "do it while your in there" sorta thing, like the steering rack bushings. The sway bar bushings get taken care of when you upgrade the bar itself. I suppose some of those other things you would probably never take off normally, like the control arms.
They are a piece of cake when the tranny is out
They make a nice difference in steering feel, so they are work the hassle IMO.
I'd look into getting the graphite impregnated ones that www.p-s-t.com sells. They cost twice as much but how often do you plan to do bushings on the car? And lube the living sh*t out of them. If you're going to do the teflon sheets then just get the ES ones and save some money. Also, save yourself some time and trouble and order new bolts, washers and nuts to replace the ones that hold the rear spindles onto the parallel links. There's a good chance that thing is fused to the bushings and will need to be cut to remove. I found that out the hard way. About $20 for those from the dealership.
Sticking my nose in here, but are you saying use regular old plumbing teflon tape to wrap around the sway bar where the bushing holds it? Just wrap it like a hockey stick or tennis handle?
It seems like that would just rip and tear wouldn't it?
EDIT: And do you lube it with the teflon or just use the teflon tape?
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Sweet '93 NX DE+T GT28RS- For Sale
Sticking my nose in here, but are you saying use regular old plumbing teflon tape to wrap around the sway bar where the bushing holds it? Just wrap it like a hockey stick or tennis handle?
It seems like that would just rip and tear wouldn't it?
EDIT: And do you lube it with the teflon or just use the teflon tape?
Check out post #10. I have three links there to the previous discussions of Zerk fittings, ES bushings, suspension bind and teflon tape.
Sticking my nose in here, but are you saying use regular old plumbing teflon tape to wrap around the sway bar where the bushing holds it? Just wrap it like a hockey stick or tennis handle?
It seems like that would just rip and tear wouldn't it?
EDIT: And do you lube it with the teflon or just use the teflon tape?
Rob,
Yep, just wrap the bar with tape like a hockey stick or tennis handle, then lube the tape and bushing with water resistant grease. If you your the military spec'd tape, it will not rip. The tape will in fact start to disinigrate over time, when the grease washes away. But, it is really easy to redo the bar once that happens.
The teflon idea I was thinking of was buying sheets of teflon that are several mils thick, and you cut it into the proper sized band to sleeve between a bushing what it's being pressed into. I don't remember who came up with that idea but it wasn't me, so I'm not trying to steal anyone's thunder.
The teflon idea I was thinking of was buying sheets of teflon that are several mils thick, and you cut it into the proper sized band to sleeve between a bushing what it's being pressed into. I don't remember who came up with that idea but it wasn't me, so I'm not trying to steal anyone's thunder.
Rob, yes the teflon sheets are a much better way to do the swaybar bushings. We discussed that extensively in my thread about the ES bushings. The reason I recommend the tape, is it is easy to come by, almost everyone has some teflon tape running around. The teflon sheets unfortunately will only work with the frame swaybar bushings, as they are split and you can pull them apart and not disturb the teflon on the bar when installing. As far as using the teflon sheets between the bushing and sleeve in the control arm bushings, is impossible to keep the teflon on the sleeve when inserting it in the bushing. I never could figure out a good way to get the teflon between the sleeve and bushing, as there is NO extra clearance.
