A community of enthusiasts dedicated to Nissan's SR20DE/SR20VE/SR20DET engines.
Start here: forum search. Be sure to search on what you're looking for before posting a new thread.
You are currently browsing the forum as a guest. In order to access special features, the image gallery, and post you will need to be a registered member. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact the administrator.
EDIT: 03/05/06 - This thread is about my rod bearing trouble I have been having... Lots of good information from everyone (including me wigging out) here below and on second page... Pictures from my investigation are posted on the 3rd page.. and continue from there... Hopefully this will help all people that are having the same trouble.
EDIT: 03/16/06 - Problem found... #1 Rod Bearing Shot, Doesn't look like any scoring.. Pictures on page 3. I really think the problem occured from pushing car on bad oil for so long... changed oil at 3500 after driving probably 150 miles over the weekend... Oil wasn't super low but your supposed to change your oil right after breaking cams in... Ah well --> Swap Information in Sig:
Hey Guys...
I just finished with a routine oil change today... same as always... this one was about 150 miles after the highport cam install I did last week. I went 150 miles before because I wanted to ensure the cams were broken in (if they needed to be broken in at all).
Well, I got off the highway today and as I approached the onramp there was instantly a TERRIBLE KNOCKING... so I pulled over in the closest parking lot after the exit. I opened the hood and there was oil all over the left side of the engine. It didnt come from the Valve Cover!... It was all on the crank pulley and belts and under the vehicle... sh*t... I assumed it came from the oil filter assembly... I assumed that I didn't tighten down the oil filter hard enough... so I took it off, inspected, and made sure it was sealed. I literally walked three blocks without a coat to buy 2 quarts of some oil at a local shop. Well I babied her home the last 1/2 mile home at less than 1500 RPM and the knocking continued.
I have no clue as to what caused this, or what I'm going to do... I really hope nothing is damaged, and am afraid to hear what it could be.
I'm going to check the chain tensioner, the valve cover again, and the oil squirters, and make sure my filter is on correctly...
Please, if you have any experience with this, could you please lend some insight... I'm really scared something went really wrong... Oh God I'm going to get the haynes
I hate to tell you this, but my guess is the terrible knocking is rod knock and that often occurs when you're low on oil... which means it's probably time to find a new motor. That's just my guess though...
The filters between a 91-94 are different from the 95+ I believe. Threads are different lengths or something; the result however is the fitler coming loose.
__________________
Khiem
'96 SE-R.... boost, brakes, suspension, etc... sold
'05 Evo
'05 CBR 600RR
Last edited by spdracerUT : 02-20-2006 at 04:23 PM.
It doesnt take long to fry a motor with less than 3qts left in it.
Hopefully there wasnt any rod-bending or metal-chunking damage in the motor, and you might be able to get away with simply inspecting the journals and replacing your fried bearing(s)
Yes... I think that this may have come from low oil...
And I was only out for 3 minutes or so.. only 3 miles away...
Can I check the bearings?
an engine without any circulating oil wouldnt last 3minutes at idle much less at speed
as for checking your bearings...
Drop your oil pans and seach for metal chunks.... then if you have the tools and ability, measure your bearing clearances and order some up. While checking clearances, you should be able to tell immediately which if any bearings have burnt, or "spun"
okay... I will definetely have to hold off all plans for this... I obviously never planned for this to happen. Am I going to need a micrometer, im not even sure what a plastiguage is? Any how to's on how to check this and inspect bearings. I have a garage but I don't have a lift, is this still possible? ... What a terrible fu*king day.
... lord help me...
Last edited by XxToKeSxX : 02-20-2006 at 04:48 PM.
Okay... There are no dents in the oil pan... My guess is this is a good sign?
From searching:
I can either replace the rod bearings, which I have never done before... I can check after pulling off the oil pan and show you all a picture, but I'm hoping that it is a simple task. If it is too difficult, I may have to scrap it...
I will have to take off the top and bottome oil pans... "Pull the oil pans off and take off the rod bearing caps (make sure you keep them in order) If the crank isn't badly scored (I hope its not) then try changing out the rod bearings."
"get a set of the correct size bearings , change them out, its not hard at all if u have any mechanical know how , then though its not necessary i would give the engine a real good oil flush with some decent but not the greatest oil , castrol for instance just to get all metal shavings that may be floating around out"
"You already heard knocking so some damage has been done. Be safe and just go ahead and change out the bearings, inspecting the journals while they're out. This way, you can prevent any further damage to parts that are not only more expensive, but take a lot more work to replace (crank and rods)."
worst comes to worst... Purchase a new JDM engine... I've never done before either... does anyone have any idea of any good places to buy one. http://www.osakajdmmotors.com/codes/nissan.htm
Last edited by XxToKeSxX : 02-20-2006 at 05:13 PM.
I buy from soken, I've bought 3 engines from there, ask for Hector Palencia, he's a great guy, I've bought 2 engines for my b13 and 1 for a Baja race car (that one kicks mayor ass) honestly, I think it's better if you just buy a fresh engine, that's what I did after rod #4 died on my due to some silicon in the oil pan, got stock on the pump and dried out my engine until his dead, next engine died on my due to a lousy defective watter pump during travel, engine died too, and this engine it's a champ, after 2 years still kicking mayor butt word of advice, fresh engine, at the end you be saving more money and work.. period
If this just a matter of replacing the rod bearings, is it pretty simple to take my oil pans off without a lift? Can this be a one man job?
I have a Haynes & a Shop Manual Off of Ebay and am trying to find out what I need to do...
Its not exactly simple, but its sure isnt rocket science.
with your front wheels off, and the car on high jack stands or blocks it shouldnt be too difficult. Just stick to your service manual and use caution and a torque wrench when re-assembling
Well, it never overheated, the oil light never came on... why was there no warning? I'm really confused as to how this could have happened.
I'm just really confused as to how there was oil everywhere below where the filter would be if the filter was on hand tight. the seal was touching the metal. I'm just really pissed. I like my engine I will have to buy some jackstands.
Other then soken? www.soken.com? are there any other places you guys purchase engines...
Last edited by XxToKeSxX : 02-20-2006 at 06:03 PM.
Have you checked the timing chain tensioner? It could very likely be leaking out of there.
Changing the bearings in the car isn't difficult, just time consuming. Drop both pans, take off the girdle and oil pump and you'll be staring at the rods. With the amount of noise your motor is making, it's not going to take a micromoeter or plastigauge to find the problem.
The bearings should all have a fairly uniform silver color to them. Any that have spun will be obviously damaged, or be showing copper. Run your thumbnail along the crank journals and if you feel any ridges you're screwed. At that point you're going to have to change the crank, and honestly, you're better off swapping the engine.
Well, it never overheated, the oil light never came on... why was there no warning? I'm really confused as to how this could have happened.
I'm just really confused as to how there was oil everywhere below where the filter would be if the filter was on hand tight. the seal was touching the metal. I'm just really pissed. I like my engine I will have to buy some jackstands.
Other then soken? www.soken.com? are there any other places you guys purchase engines...
Oil Light never came on because there was oil and some pressure on it, but for rod #4 not, you see, thats the rod that it's far from the oil pump, that's why. Maybe it wasn't your oil filter, maybe it was you crank seal. I chose soken *** they are 375 dlls plus shipping
XxToKeSxX: Chucky?!?!
Chuckxxxx: yessir?
XxToKeSxX: I may need your help? I think I need to replace my rod bearings...
Chuckxxxx: wtf did you do?
Chuckxxxx: rod bearings ain't exactly easy yo
XxToKeSxX: Routine Oil Change... Went to auto zone to pick something up... on the way back started to hear knocking... lifted hood saw oil everywhere... Suspected that the oil filter was loose or something, literally ran and got some oil and filled back up and babied it home...
Chuckxxxx: yeah
XxToKeSxX: Hopefully I can just replace these by taking the oil pans off and finding and replacing them...
Chuckxxxx: if you ate a rod bearing you're going to need more than just new bearings
XxToKeSxX: what will i need..
XxToKeSxX: I heard if its worst than that I will need a new engine
Chuckxxxx: you'd have to get the crank reground
Chuckxxxx: or a new crank
XxToKeSxX: I will just buy a JDM engine if thats the case...
Chuckxxxx: and possibly a new rod
XxToKeSxX: fu*king just 3 miles and this had to happen...
Chuckxxxx: did you have your timing set correctly?
Chuckxxxx: like all timing marks in line
XxToKeSxX: I'm pretty sure its set at 13-15, I was going to auto zone to buy a timing light... I didnt change my timing
Chuckxxxx: did you put in new cams?
XxToKeSxX: not both... just intake cam and i zip tied sprocket to timing chain,
XxToKeSxX: so it didnt mess with timing at all
Chuckxxxx: oh, okay
XxToKeSxX: made sure same amount of teeth were between cam gears
XxToKeSxX: checked out okay... this is from the lack of oil... guaranteed..
XxToKeSxX: there are no dents in the oil pan though
Chuckxxxx: any idea why the oil drained out?
XxToKeSxX: im not sure... I thought it was because I didnt tighten down the oil filter all the way... other than that I dont know
XxToKeSxX: why else would it be?
Chuckxxxx: no clue
Chuckxxxx: could have blown a head gasket, very unlikely though
Chuckxxxx: or burnt up a piston and so it was pumping oil out of the dip stick area
XxToKeSxX: im not sure...
XxToKeSxX: there was a little pressure when I removed the oil cap with it on
XxToKeSxX: im just really upset man...
Chuckxxxx: hmm, I'd say look for your oil leak first
Chuckxxxx: to figure out what caused that
Chuckxxxx: then you can determine if it really is a rod knock (probably is if you lost oil though)
Chuckxxxx: how much oil did you lose?
XxToKeSxX: i checked the dipstick afterward and it was right on the low... i never got an oil light
Chuckxxxx: that's weird then
XxToKeSxX: it was coming off an onramp when i started hearing the noise... right on taft
Chuckxxxx: it doesn't sound like it was low enough to actually starve the engine
XxToKeSxX: I really dont know... oil pump maybe? i dont even know where that thing is .. sh*t man
Chuckxxxx: where was the oil?
Chuckxxxx: all over the bay?
Chuckxxxx: did you just not tighten your valvecover tight enough?
Chuckxxxx: that it's leaking from there?
XxToKeSxX: No, the VC is tight... I have been driving around for days and it has been good... this just happened today... on the left side where the filter & chain tensioner would be all the way down to the wheels
XxToKeSxX: Maybe dirt got in there
Chuckxxxx: did you end up tightening up the oil filter?
Chuckxxxx: I mean, if it backed off, you would know it
XxToKeSxX: i tightened it after i stopped in a parking lot and refilled with oil
XxToKeSxX: Because there was no oil above that location...
Chuckxxxx: so it WAS loose? Like, you had to turn it several turns?
XxToKeSxX: i was able to loosen it with my hand with ease... but it was threaded...
XxToKeSxX: People are all telling me to buy a fresh engine
Chuckxxxx: pshhh
XxToKeSxX: well if the shaft is damaged that is
XxToKeSxX: they just say that its worth it to just pay 400 and buy a new jdm sr20
XxToKeSxX: and part it out, i want to fix it though
Chuckxxxx: oh
Chuckxxxx: well if it's only 400 bucks then sh*t yeah
Chuckxxxx: just do that
Chuckxxxx: I'm used to seeing at least 1200 for a decent used motor
XxToKeSxX: thats because yours is turbo... turbo motors are overpriced man .. jk
XxToKeSxX: this is purely my fault...
Chuckxxxx: yeah, I'm not sure when I'll actually have any real free time, but I'm sure Phil could help you out
Chuckxxxx: I'd try dropping the oil pan
Chuckxxxx: and looking at the rods
Chuckxxxx: if one of them is bad you'll know right away
XxToKeSxX: is that pretty easy to do?
XxToKeSxX: will i have to drain it?
Chuckxxxx: you'll see metal chips and sh*t in the bottom of the pan
Chuckxxxx: and one of the rods will most likely be discolored and you'll be able to wiggle it around by hand
Chuckxxxx: yeah, you'd have to drain it
Chuckxxxx: on my car it takes a bit of doing
Chuckxxxx: like I have to drop my downpipe and remove the transfer case and disconnect the Turbo oil return line
Chuckxxxx: plus the 11 or so bolts actually holding on the pan
XxToKeSxX: i see...
Chuckxxxx: you don't have all that extra crap
Chuckxxxx: I don't think
XxToKeSxX: i'll have to find out.
Chuckxxxx: maybe the exhaust will be in the way
Chuckxxxx: but that should be it
Chuckxxxx: anyway
Chuckxxxx: I've been up since 330
Chuckxxxx: I'm going to take a nap
XxToKeSxX: one more question... did you need a lift to do that?
Chuckxxxx: to drop the oil pan?
Chuckxxxx: no
Chuckxxxx: you do'nt need a lift
Chuckxxxx: well you shouldn't anyway
XxToKeSxX: jackstands?
Chuckxxxx: not if you can fit under the car
Chuckxxxx:
XxToKeSxX: alright... well see... fu*king cold fu*k
Chuckxxxx: now to remove the crank and stuff, then it will get a LOT more complicated
Chuckxxxx: yeah
Chuckxxxx: that's one of the other reasons I'm not exactly offering to lend a helping hand at the moment
Chuckxxxx: the other being that I've been up since 330
XxToKeSxX: im not going to do that... if the bearings need replaced, I do that, if the rod is bad I'm buying an engine and will possibly call you and phil later... go to bed... I will do research
Chuckxxxx: yeah, the more I think about it
Chuckxxxx: the only thing really bad that could happen to the rod is the end link goes out of round
Chuckxxxx: the majority of the damage would be to the bearing surface of the crank shaft
Chuckxxxx: anyway
Chuckxxxx: later man
Chuckxxxx is away at 5:03:11 PM.
Last edited by XxToKeSxX : 02-20-2006 at 06:18 PM.
sh*t, I ain't reading that, sorry bro, if it's a knock rod sound, then it's a rod, no questions asked, what caused it, it doesn't matter enymore, for sure your rod it's witout bearing, and your main crank it's dead, need to take to the shop that crank, get a new rod, etc etc. and then, find out from where that oil came from, on my experience, it's better to get a new fresh engine, replace hoses, etc etc, drop it in, and relax for come year with out engine problems, you are not going to be able to trus your actual engine again.. good luck bro..
Does anyone have the information for Soken or any othe providers
Like what their full names are? I can't find soken... I'm also hectic now. I apologize if I sound like a bitch, but I am trying to calm down... I will be doing EVERYTHING I can to do this myself... I will be calling them THIS WEEK if I can't figure out what is wrong, to get information on a new DE.
Does anyone have the information for Soken or any othe providers
Like what their full names are? I can't find soken... I'm also hectic now. I apologize if I sound like a bitch, but I am trying to calm down... I will be doing EVERYTHING I can to do this myself... I will be calling them THIS WEEK if I can't figure out what is wrong, to get information on a new DE.
I'm going to get the haynes
word of advice, fresh engine, at the end you be saving more money and work.. period
I will have to buy some jackstands. 