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can someone please tell me something about this swap kit!!!!!!!!!!! whats going on with it because i possibly can be getting a vq any moment now
here is his swap that he is selling over on ebay, basically you do it all yourself, send him your harness and he fixes it so that you dont have any check engine lights...
Set litre/100km in left column and then mile/gallon US in right column.
8L/100Km is 29.4MPG
The 5.9L/100km my sister did during highway driving in a I/H/E only VQ swapped N14 is still the best so far. The car weighs around 2400Lbs with fuel and driver. Nearly 600 miles to a single tank(including surge tank)
Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperblackZ
More like about 18-19 mpg, which is still pretty good for mixed use. I thought about that 35 mpg and said "hmmm" because on of my daily drivers is a 2004 V35C Coupe, here "Infiniti G35 Coupe" or JDM or anywhere else it's sold as a Nissan, "Skyline GT350 Coupe".
It's VQ35 never sees over 20 mpg with hard driving, with 6MT, more like 17 mpg (7.2 liters/km). Highway is much better due to the tall 5th and 6th gears, 25 mpg +, I've seen low 30's.
Most of the time, esp since having installed a COBB AP and Stage2+ map, I see about 17-19 mpg. I guess you have to burn some fuel if you want to roll with 300chp. With the COBB AP my fuel cutoff is now at 7200 rpm, not 6850, so I tend to spend more time above 6000 rpm than before, that's pretty much wide open throttle level of fuel consumption in a VQ35.
this would be a sick swap into a b13. I wonder if the engine would physically fit. it might be rather close. What kind of clutch application are these, meaning hydro or cable? assuming you would have to convert to hydro on a b13? I also wonder about the shift linkage. Would love to see one in my NX bay though. Plus just seeing one under the hood would be almost a sexy as the exhaust note of these. Imagine what people would think if they heard you roll up with this engine note.
Yep, a little slow on the comeback but 'development' work has being going on so not had a chance to check the fuel consumption numbers again until recently.
The MPG is decent when you work out the 75% displacement penalty of the SR20, factor in the torque output and its suddenly great value.
iamhappy can you post some pics of your engine bay? Just what you did with motor mounts and some pics on how tight it was? did you have to modify the body at all or just new mounts? what axles worked with your hubs? your trans probably required quite i bit of work to fit in there.
Last edited by blk-NX2000; 09-05-2009 at 01:17 PM.
No cutting of chassis or any sheet metal in the engine bay
Custom engine mounts using stock brackets
Yes, it is tight(drop the cross member to remove the radiator from below tight and p/steer pump replacement is an engine out job!)
A33b Maxima 6 speed manual axles using A32 Maxima front hubs(can use B15 Sentra hubs)
Engine and gearbox from crank pulley to the chassis rail end of the gearbox is actually about an inch shorter than an SR20 with 5 speed box so there is plenty of room in the engine bay.
US Spec cars have it easy, as RHD cars have to get the brake M/C to sit between the rear timing cover and the plenum.
The latest local swap is occuring at the moment and this is the closest to perfect kit yet and will be the 'demonstration' car, for photos and stuff since its the most accurate. Be posting detailed pics by the end of this month
No cutting of chassis or any sheet metal in the engine bay
Custom engine mounts using stock brackets
Yes, it is tight(drop the cross member to remove the radiator from below tight and p/steer pump replacement is an engine out job!)
A33b Maxima 6 speed manual axles using A32 Maxima front hubs(can use B15 Sentra hubs)
Engine and gearbox from crank pulley to the chassis rail end of the gearbox is actually about an inch shorter than an SR20 with 5 speed box so there is plenty of room in the engine bay.
US Spec cars have it easy, as RHD cars have to get the brake M/C to sit between the rear timing cover and the plenum.
The latest local swap is occuring at the moment and this is the closest to perfect kit yet and will be the 'demonstration' car, for photos and stuff since its the most accurate. Be posting detailed pics by the end of this month
These are pictures from last November(local shopping mall had just been completed so used it as a reference for pics)
VQ35 from crank pulley to bellhousing is 500mm(around 20 inches) and the 6 speed box is around 400mm(16") from bellhousing to chassis end of the casing for a total of 900mm or 36" which is plenty of room in the B13/B14 engine bay.
As can be seen in the top pic, the RHD master cylinder would sit just above the VCT timing protrusion.
My swap uses the stock VQ front and read mount brackets, along with the tranny mount.
Last edited by iamhappy46; 09-18-2009 at 07:26 AM.
The wiring loom - strip out the VQ specific wires such as VCT solenoids, cam and crank position sensors, injector and ignition coil wiring and their relevant plugs along with the factory O2 sensor plugs. The SR20DE oil sensor plug, coolant temp sensor, air flow meter, starter motor, VSS, gearbox switches and alternator wiring looms are retained but VQ specific plugs attached to the loom where required.
Engine chassis mount
I changed the original design, in that the stock N14/B13 engine mount rubber is used and the additional top bracket helps clamp the lot together, while using the stock mounting point as well. Blue is the additional bracket, while red is stock mount. The latest design means that bracket flex is reduced by around 200%.
The FWD VQ35 has a 10mm bolt that attaches to the timing case cover in the above red square. It is not needed once the loom is cleaned and re-routed, so can be ground down flush on RHD swaps to allow for master cylinder clearance
Plenty of room for the gearbox
As expected, the engine bay is tight. By no means is it impossible though.
For those of you with LHD vehicles, consider yourself lucky as it is by far the easiest of the LHD / RHD swaps lol
Wiring loom
Quote:
Originally Posted by iamhappy46
The latest local swap is occuring at the moment and this is the closest to perfect kit yet and will be the 'demonstration' car, for photos and stuff since its the most accurate. Be posting detailed pics by the end of this month
This thread delivers...
Last edited by iamhappy46; 10-13-2009 at 07:17 AM.
VQ35 Crank Angle Sensor with VQ30 Timing Ring which allows the VQ30 ECU to be used
Twin plate clutch, although the design has been altered recently
VQ35HR headgaskets to redirect coolant flow to the exhaust valves first
VQ35 is 600mm(15" or so) high from bottom of sump to top of timing cover and another 61mm(2.5") once plenum is taken into account. Compare this to an SR20 which is 625mm from sump to top of rocker cover and 36mm(or less than 2") extra height makes it a nice fit
Last edited by iamhappy46; 11-23-2009 at 07:07 AM.
VQ35 cable shifter mechanism has been modified to fit under the factory gear surround Just need to refit the centre console to get it lined up perfectly
Wiring loom has been finalised allowing for the engine to be wired up easily
Camshaft sensor has been moved from the intake camshaft to the exhaust camshaft, allowing for crank and cam signals to the 'phased' correctly. If it was on the intake camshaft, when the VCT advances the cam, the cam signal would be moved out of phase confusing the factory Nissan Maxima VQ30 or R34 RB25 ECU
SR20DE alternator bolts up to the VQ35 block The engine mount seen will be removed with a custom mount installed to match up to the B13/N14 crossmember
Engine has been assembled with new VQ35HR gaskets fitted and is using GM LS1 style Motron 60Lb(around 600cc) hi impendance injectors in the factory fuel rail with a small modification E85 fuel requirements at 9300rpm should not be a problem
It the opposite then true? Will a VQ alternator mount to a SR?
As far as I can tell, yes. The wiring loom was a little bit different and I swapped them because I know my alternator was rebuilt recently and there will be no wiring issues. If it turns out that I need to run the VQ alternator at a later date, I would consider solving the wiring problem but my main priority with a swap of this magnitude is fitting as many parts as possible that I know are functional so IF I do have problems on start up, I can diagnose the suspect items quickly
CONFIRMED
VQ35 Maxima/Altima style 90A alternator bolts up to the SR20 block Minor rewiring should have it running in no time
Last edited by iamhappy46; 04-08-2010 at 12:25 AM.
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lol
