please help ! motor noise either rod knock or lifter tick - SR20 Forum
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Old 09-18-2006, 01:04 PM   #1 (permalink)
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please help ! motor noise either rod knock or lifter tick

hey fellas. thanks for looking. this is the situation. drivng the car, belt jumps off the crank and water pump and ps pulleys. drove a bit cause there was no were to pull over. pulled over. motor got really hot, needles (water temp oem temp) pinned. yada yadda yaddda let her cool off and got her home. put a new belt on.

theres a noise coming from the motor. more like a ticking noise. after the car idles/warms up its hard to hear but still there. it starts up with a real ticking clacking fast noise but like i said after a bit it quites down alot. but under rpm u can still hear it though.

my father was pretty posative it was from the top end. as did i. but then i started to think rod knock.

nick (nismo1997) stopped over and listened. he was pretty sure it was a lifter that needs to be bled. hes pretty posative its a air filled lifter.

my questions is this. there is a big difference bewteen rod knock and valve ticking correct ? something that couldnt be confused ?

im going to have a buddy of mine help me pull out the lifter and hopefully its full of air. is there anything else i should address while im in there to get rid of the noise.

the factory service manual states they will not bleed them selves as does alot of threads on the forum. so they will not bleed them selves correct. and will need to be manually bled ?

by over heating the motor how i get air in the lifter ??

i searched a bit and waht i found leads me to believe it really is a faulty lifter and i hope thats what it is.

thanks guys.

stratton.
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Old 09-18-2006, 01:26 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Do you use synthetic or conventional oil? I would imagine if the oil gets hot enough, then it could possibly thin out enough to let air in.... maybe....

Does the car run well? Idle normally? Exhaust pulses and tone sound the same? I noticed the car lumped around at idle, when my rod bearings were toasted.

Do the easy things first and bleed those damn lifters! If that doesn't help, then, start anticipating the worst IMO.

Let us know how it goes bro.
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Old 09-18-2006, 01:34 PM   #3 (permalink)
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thanks h. i use 15w 40 mobile one synthetic. yeah for the one time i drove it after i put the belt back on it pulled as it always pulled strong and smooth. idles fine, exhaust sounds like its same sexy self.

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Old 09-18-2006, 01:37 PM   #4 (permalink)
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When I first fired up the race car (a few days before the convention) I was sure ir had rod knock. Of course that is not possible since it was a brand new bottom end with zero time. But it sounded 100% like a rod knock, it DID sound like it was coming from the bottom end, except it did not get louder when revved (as rod knock does).

It turned out being a lifter. Pull the valve cover and press the rocker arms down. If a lifter is bled down, you will be able to push the rocker arm down. IIRC the FSM says if you can push it down 1mm you must bleed it. Might as well do all 4 once you have the cam out.
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Old 09-18-2006, 01:38 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STRATTON
tiny oil leak but still boosting the sh*t out the bitch

.....where's that coming from?
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Old 09-18-2006, 02:14 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Stratton it really depends on how hot the motor got! I had a personal experience myself with both lifters, rod-knock, and a wrist pin. I would say if it got real hot you could have broken a wrist pin that would sound like the noise. Pull the VC off you NX and send it to me then bleed your lifters!! HAHAHHA!!
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Old 09-18-2006, 02:25 PM   #7 (permalink)
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tahnks for the advice guys.

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Old 09-18-2006, 03:28 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I use 5w30 like it says to in my owners manual.
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Old 09-18-2006, 03:47 PM   #9 (permalink)
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When it was hot, likely didn't matter it was 15-40, but the tolerances on these motors are so tight I've been told you can't even measure them with plastigage, so 15-40 is REALLY thick for these things.
NOW - rev the motor to let's say 2k, hold it a bit, then slowly lift the throttle to bring it back down to 1500. The object of this task is to hear the engine under no load, which is very slightly decreasing revs. If upon the point at which the revs start decreasing you hear an increase in the noise, you likely have a rod bearing or piston pin rattling. If not, chances are it's something else you've toasted. If you're lucky, it's a rattling lifter, could be a scored piston. Not very likely an overheat put air in a lifter. Lesson is, after you fix this, don't drive so far with the water pump not working. They heat up REALLY fast. PULL OFF. PERIOD. Not trying to be mean. Ya just need to learn from this beyond the royal pain of toasting your motor.
As Shawn's sig says, a breakdown is just an opportunity for upgrade. Rant and rave for a while (I do too), get over it, start saving bux and go get a VE :-).
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Old 09-18-2006, 05:34 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I'm hoping for the sake of all that is holy its not "the knock" because I hate it so...

keep us updated Strat.
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Old 09-18-2006, 05:37 PM   #11 (permalink)
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jerryeads i sure hope it isnt a scored piston or a wrist pin. if it is then so be it. but i still think for some reason that its the lifter. has a very ticky ticky sound and like i said the sound greatly lessens as the motor warms up and comes to 800rpm idle.

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Old 09-18-2006, 09:03 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Old 09-18-2006, 09:17 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Strat,

I think if its the knock you will know... hear me now... YOU WILL KNOW... when I had it it sounded like 5 robots having a swingers party in my engine bay... Don't fret.

The lifters def have more of a ticking sound... less robot orgy sounding.

You can try pulling each plug one by one at idle to see if it makes a difference... I thought the motor I bought had rod knock after I installed it... turns out it wasn't.

All in all, expect the worst but hope for the best.

Worst comes to worst... If a swap needs to be in order your lucky because a fresh highport jdm is like $350 bones (as opposed to a $550 lowport).

Here are some of the threads & my videos where I had questions about it as well, people gave me great advice... first one was where I found out I had the knock, second one is after my swap when I had tapping:
http://www.sr20forum.com/general-sr20/146508-please-help-trouble.html
http://www.sr20forum.com/general-sr20/152459-swap-jitters-need-little-sr20-advice-videos.html

And a few I searched during that time I was freakin:
http://www.sr20forum.com/turbo/95639-sounds-like-valve-tapping.html
http://www.sr20forum.com/sr20de-technical-corner/28967-tick-tick-tick.html
http://www.sr20forum.com/sr20de-technical-corner/40723-violent-rattling-under-valve-cover-day-after-engine-swap.html

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Old 09-18-2006, 09:17 PM   #14 (permalink)
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any metal shaving in the oil..my g ride has a tacking noise and after using some lucas synthetic stuff and some 20w50 oil it stopped..at my last oil change i just used 20w50 and the noise simply stopped

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http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t=100_1727.flv
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Old 09-18-2006, 09:32 PM   #15 (permalink)
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ya... if you see this in your oil pan... you know what time it is...
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Old 09-18-2006, 09:36 PM   #16 (permalink)
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thats a nasty pic their tokes
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Old 09-18-2006, 09:40 PM   #17 (permalink)
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I would imagine if the oil gets hot enough, then it could possibly thin out enough to let air in.... maybe....
Thats what I was thinking myself.
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Old 09-18-2006, 09:51 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Heres what my knock sounded like. No its not a diesel truck I promise.

Clicky
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Old 09-18-2006, 11:02 PM   #19 (permalink)
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CJ just hit me up about his knock problem... he is in the process of replacing his... he is having a small problem but I think the answer is very close...

Here is his thread for future reference
http://www.sr20forum.com/sr20de-technical-corner/170715-about-change-bearings-all.html

I posted more info on bearing changes I searched for not too long ago.
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Old 09-18-2006, 11:42 PM   #20 (permalink)
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meens thanks a ton for your info.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sr20deman
Heres what my knock sounded like. No its not a diesel truck I promise.

Clicky
thanks for this sound clip. this is deffinatly not the sound coming from the motor.

so rod knock is ruled out.

its down to the faulty lifter or like others have stated a busted wrist pin.

lets hope its the lifter . tomorrow **** replace the crank seal and then investigate under the vc.

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