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please help ! motor noise either rod knock or lifter tick
hey fellas. thanks for looking. this is the situation. drivng the car, belt jumps off the crank and water pump and ps pulleys. drove a bit cause there was no were to pull over. pulled over. motor got really hot, needles (water temp oem temp) pinned. yada yadda yaddda let her cool off and got her home. put a new belt on.
theres a noise coming from the motor. more like a ticking noise. after the car idles/warms up its hard to hear but still there. it starts up with a real ticking clacking fast noise but like i said after a bit it quites down alot. but under rpm u can still hear it though.
my father was pretty posative it was from the top end. as did i. but then i started to think rod knock.
nick (nismo1997) stopped over and listened. he was pretty sure it was a lifter that needs to be bled. hes pretty posative its a air filled lifter.
my questions is this. there is a big difference bewteen rod knock and valve ticking correct ? something that couldnt be confused ?
im going to have a buddy of mine help me pull out the lifter and hopefully its full of air. is there anything else i should address while im in there to get rid of the noise.
the factory service manual states they will not bleed them selves as does alot of threads on the forum. so they will not bleed them selves correct. and will need to be manually bled ?
by over heating the motor how i get air in the lifter ??
i searched a bit and waht i found leads me to believe it really is a faulty lifter and i hope thats what it is.
Do you use synthetic or conventional oil? I would imagine if the oil gets hot enough, then it could possibly thin out enough to let air in.... maybe....
Does the car run well? Idle normally? Exhaust pulses and tone sound the same? I noticed the car lumped around at idle, when my rod bearings were toasted.
Do the easy things first and bleed those damn lifters! If that doesn't help, then, start anticipating the worst IMO.
Let us know how it goes bro.
...another thread invasion from Harry, who came back and noticed that everything was suddenly fcuking different. What happened?
Not on the forum much lately since neck injury - we'll be back at it soon, babying the n00bies.
JWT S4, HS 6, Home Depot Intake, Hypercoil 2s w/ KYB "GR-Poo", CF Sunroof Delete panel, and other crap - where's my interior?
thanks h. i use 15w 40 mobile one synthetic. yeah for the one time i drove it after i put the belt back on it pulled as it always pulled strong and smooth. idles fine, exhaust sounds like its same sexy self.
When I first fired up the race car (a few days before the convention) I was sure ir had rod knock. Of course that is not possible since it was a brand new bottom end with zero time. But it sounded 100% like a rod knock, it DID sound like it was coming from the bottom end, except it did not get louder when revved (as rod knock does).
It turned out being a lifter. Pull the valve cover and press the rocker arms down. If a lifter is bled down, you will be able to push the rocker arm down. IIRC the FSM says if you can push it down 1mm you must bleed it. Might as well do all 4 once you have the cam out.
Climate Change skeptics are the new Flat Earth Society
Stratton it really depends on how hot the motor got! I had a personal experience myself with both lifters, rod-knock, and a wrist pin. I would say if it got real hot you could have broken a wrist pin that would sound like the noise. Pull the VC off you NX and send it to me then bleed your lifters!! HAHAHHA!!
05 Tacoma 4x4
91 White SE-R built de coming up
When it was hot, likely didn't matter it was 15-40, but the tolerances on these motors are so tight I've been told you can't even measure them with plastigage, so 15-40 is REALLY thick for these things.
NOW - rev the motor to let's say 2k, hold it a bit, then slowly lift the throttle to bring it back down to 1500. The object of this task is to hear the engine under no load, which is very slightly decreasing revs. If upon the point at which the revs start decreasing you hear an increase in the noise, you likely have a rod bearing or piston pin rattling. If not, chances are it's something else you've toasted. If you're lucky, it's a rattling lifter, could be a scored piston. Not very likely an overheat put air in a lifter. Lesson is, after you fix this, don't drive so far with the water pump not working. They heat up REALLY fast. PULL OFF. PERIOD. Not trying to be mean. Ya just need to learn from this beyond the royal pain of toasting your motor.
As Shawn's sig says, a breakdown is just an opportunity for upgrade. Rant and rave for a while (I do too), get over it, start saving bux and go get a VE :-).
'93 B13, etc.
If you don't have the patience
to do it right the first time,
how is it you have the time to
do it over and over again?
jerryeads i sure hope it isnt a scored piston or a wrist pin. if it is then so be it. but i still think for some reason that its the lifter. has a very ticky ticky sound and like i said the sound greatly lessens as the motor warms up and comes to 800rpm idle.
any metal shaving in the oil..my g ride has a tacking noise and after using some lucas synthetic stuff and some 20w50 oil it stopped..at my last oil change i just used 20w50 and the noise simply stopped