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Blair, if he goes with Tsuru's, will the differences matter?
Shawn, get the car towed to wherever. Strip the parts and either sell the remains with the drivetrain for $200 or junk it. For your needs, you don't need a title.
Blair, are you sure. Not trying to get you two guys arguing, just asking for confirmation.
Further, even if those items are not usuable from the donor, is the rest of the list, plus the motor/tranny, worth spending $200 bucks?
So, $200 bucks for that list.
Buy it?
Quote:
Originally Posted by chriscar
Blair, if he goes with Tsuru's, will the differences matter?
C
Yes I'm sure. The bumper is just a cosmtic difference (later ones having the lower spoiler) The grille mounts on the 91-2's is into the core support, on the 93-4 is to the headlight. I've treid putting some of my 93 stuff onto Melissa's 91 and it's a no go. If you converted everything over, you could do it. I don't know as far as the Tsurus go however. I don't have any experience with them. In my book, the car in good shape is easily worth $200.
EDIT: The frame rail/apron stuff is the same, just not the core support itself.
__________________
91 NX2k hard top (track whore) Celebrating 14 years of ownership!
93 SE-R (street/track toy) Overkill is just about right
93 SE-R (daily driver) 221k and counting!
How to make a small fortune in motorsports - start with a large one. ~ Carroll Smith
Yeah, my bad, Shawn. He's mostly right. The bumper cover and headlight assembly are different from 91-92 and 93-94. The core support should be the same though. I don't think that there is a difference between the years.
I just showed my dad the pics. He added some info for you, buddy.
Added to the previous list, here's what you'll need:
Right upper fender reinforcement(what the fender bolts to)
He also said that you'd likely have to take it to a body shop and have them pull the frame to get it all straightened back out. He said it's likely swung and bent up top. (It's a uni-body car which means that the entire chassis of the car is the frame, instead of the shell atop of a seperate frame.) He said it's fixable.
The only major thing that you're gonna need to have done is getting the frame straightened. The rest is pretty much just cut and paste work.
LOL, he even got all excited when he saw it and asked where you lived *** he thought he was gonna have some side work!
Find the best body man in your area, and accept nothing less for your pride and joy, Shawn. A B13 classic SE-R deserves nothing less, but you already know this.
I hope that the information that I've provided you will be of great use. If you have any questions at all for either me or my dad, I'm more than happy to answer them for you, Shawn.
Lance
OH, and I almost forgot. From the donor car you're getting, I'd like to know what you'd like for the tranny and driver's side half shaft. I had to use a G20 non-lsd tranny to replace mine when it went out and I'm not happy with it. Let me know, man. Thanks.
See Shawn just what OLE Rodney told you to begin with.. I said just keep your head up and it will work out. I have faith...
I was pretty dejected. Seems like I can make this happen...with some major help. LOL.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RacerX
Shawn, if you need help on anything more than likely I can help... Where are you /your car located roughly? I live in the galleria area
I think I need to PM you back as well. I'll do that next.
I'm in downtown. Roughly Houston at Washington. The Old Sixth ward.
Quote:
Originally Posted by b13se-rluver
It sounds that as though this car will be resurrected. Good Luck Shawn!!!
It will indeed. Thanks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Toolapcfan
Shawn, sent you a PM.
Recieved and replied.
Quote:
Originally Posted by lukamccloud
Yeah, my bad, Shawn. He's mostly right. The bumper cover and headlight assembly are different from 91-92 and 93-94. The core support should be the same though. I don't think that there is a difference between the years.
I just showed my dad the pics. He added some info for you, buddy.
Added to the previous list, here's what you'll need:
Right upper fender reinforcement(what the fender bolts to)
He also said that you'd likely have to take it to a body shop and have them pull the frame to get it all straightened back out. He said it's likely swung and bent up top. He said it's fixable. The only major thing that you're gonna need to have done is getting the frame straightened. The rest is pretty much just cut and paste work.
LOL, he even got all excited when he saw it and asked where you lived *** he thought he was gonna have some side work!
Find the best body man in your area, and accept nothing less for your pride and joy, Shawn. A B13 classic SE-R deserves nothing less, but you already know this.
I hope that the information that I've provided you will be of great use. If you have any questions at all for either me or my dad, I'm more than happy to answer them for you, Shawn.
Lance
From the donor car you're getting, I'd like to know what you'd like for the tranny and driver's side half shaft. Thanks.
So, assuming that the frame (the body of the car) is torqued, it needs to be untorqued back to OEM spec. OK. That kinda sucks.
Couple questions:
Will a really good body shop just pull the frame straight and then hand it back to me to fix the aesthetic damage on my own?
What does a good shop charge to pull a frame like that? What should I expect? Ballpark, guesstimate?
Thanks to you Lance and your dad for the help. Notice I am following your list, adding to it as I go. Sincerely appreciate the help.
Gonna follow DJ's list on dismantling. When it is dry at least, 40 degrees or so outside, and raining all day. I'm a bit unstable, but not stupid.
I hate to say it, but the tranny is already spoken for. You guys are quick.
I'll post pics when I get it here on Friday. Two incredibly bad looking, beat to sh*t black SE-R's. LOL.
HEY!!!!! that looks JUST like my car when i bought it except my hood wasn't folded, mine was on the drives side and my A-arm was bent. Not to bad of a fix, and you lucky you missed the front bumper support. just get a truck or what ever tie a rope to the support and pull it out, no bigy.
FYI i havent read any of the other posts sorry...
^^^^^^^note the bent a-arm and my 4 door that i first fell in love with Sentras in this is the old lady house before I bought it
fixed^^^^
and if i can fix this you can fix that lol
home maid rocker panel^^^^^
So, assuming that the frame (the body of the car) is torqued, it needs to be untorqued back to OEM spec. OK. That kinda sucks.
Couple questions:
Will a really good body shop just pull the frame straight and then hand it back to me to fix the aesthetic damage on my own? They will, but they may want to install the upper fender reinforcement, apron, and core support to make sure everything is A-OK. It'll help if you know a bodyman from said shop, because he will be more inclined to work it in your favor.
What does a good shop charge to pull a frame like that? What should I expect? Ballpark, guesstimate? Shawn, I'm gonna be safe here and say that they'd charge 8-10 hours for that at $44/hour. It'll likely be less than that, but I don't want to tell you something super low and you get shocked if it's more.
Thanks to you Lance and your dad for the help. Notice I am following your list, adding to it as I go. Sincerely appreciate the help. No problem, Shawn. You've helped me in the past. I'm simply returning the favor.
Gonna follow DJ's list on dismantling. When it is dry at least, 40 degrees or so outside, and raining all day. I'm a bit unstable, but not stupid. LOL, so I've noticed.
I hate to say it, but the tranny is already spoken for. You guys are quick. It's cool. No biggie.
I'll post pics when I get it here on Friday. Two incredibly bad looking, beat to sh*t black SE-R's. LOL. Amen to that. Mine's not in great shape either, but still nowhere near as rough as yours. I hope everything works well in your favor on this, buddy.
As always, I'm always glad to answer any questions that you're gonna have about this.
He's mostly right. The bumper cover and headlight assembly are different from 91-92 and 93-94. The core support should be the same though. I don't think that there is a difference between the years.
The core supports are different. The difference in headlights and grilles requires different fenders, grilles, side markers and core supports. There is a 91 and a 93 in my driveway right now, and I know for a fact they are different. FAST will even confirm it. 8/90-8/92 is 62500-62Y35, 8/92- is 62500-62Y38 (62500-67Y36 w/airbag).
Try hard to get a few recommendations on local shops with the frame machines, and make sure that what you have needs that particular solution - including from some RECOMMENDED body shops that DON'T have frame machines. The machines, as you can imagine, are not $10.95 specials, and they get a pretty penny for firing 'em up. I'm no body man, but as you know I did my own repair shop for a while when I got bored with graduate school, have been fixing cars since I was five (well, okay, tractors) and I'm now over sixty, and my observation is that competent and honest repair and body shops DO NOT grow on trees. Suggestion: avoid the fancy places that look like banks or cosmetic surgery or dentist offices - that's a LOT of overhead and those frills sucker in a lot of people who think chrome means quality. Find some place that looks like a real shop (not filthy, just used) and has been around 20+ years. And their PEOPLE have been there a long time. If you weren't sent there by somebody who knows cars AND has experience with them, ask for recommendations from them. If they're good they'll have a raft of customers who'll be happy to rave about 'em. Go in the shop and LOOK at their work. If their finish work has flaws, believe me what's underneath has flaws. They all have insurance issues and you're not covered when your standing in there, but if they don't let you look at their work, NEXT. TAKE YOUR TIME. DO THE HOMEWORK. Good luck again bud. Offer stands if and whenever you need it.
Oh - my experience is that many frame shops that do nothing but frame - you can walk in there with the car stripped as necessary and they'll hook it up and pull it straight. Amazing to watch.
Jer
__________________
'93 B13, etc.
If you don't have the patience
to do it right the first time,
how is it you have the time to
do it over and over again?
Try hard to get a few recommendations on local shops with the frame machines, and make sure that what you have needs that particular solution - including from some RECOMMENDED body shops that DON'T have frame machines.
Aha, so make damn sure the frame needs to be straightened in the first place.
How does someone do that? Can an excellent body man (at a shop with no frame puller) look at the car and tell? Measure the car and tell? Please explain this a bit further, so I know if they know what they are doing.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerryeads
I'm now over sixty, and my observation is that competent and honest repair and body shops DO NOT grow on trees. Suggestion: avoid the fancy places that look like banks or cosmetic surgery or dentist offices - that's a LOT of overhead and those frills sucker in a lot of people who think chrome means quality. Find some place that looks like a real shop (not filthy, just used) and has been around 20+ years. And their PEOPLE have been there a long time. If you weren't sent there by somebody who knows cars AND has experience with them, ask for recommendations from them. If they're good they'll have a raft of customers who'll be happy to rave about 'em. Go in the shop and LOOK at their work. If their finish work has flaws, believe me what's underneath has flaws. They all have insurance issues and you're not covered when your standing in there, but if they don't let you look at their work, NEXT. TAKE YOUR TIME. DO THE HOMEWORK.
Great advice.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerryeads
Good luck again bud. Offer stands if and whenever you need it.
Gracias. This is gonna take me a bit of time. Tomorrow and Monday are supposed to be sunny, should post some more pics of further dismantling.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerryeads
Oh - my experience is that many frame shops that do nothing but frame - you can walk in there with the car stripped as necessary and they'll hook it up and pull it straight. Amazing to watch.
This is good to know.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lukamcloud
Will a really good body shop just pull the frame straight and then hand it back to me to fix the aesthetic damage on my own?They will, but they may want to install the upper fender reinforcement, apron, and core support to make sure everything is A-OK.
It'll help if you know a bodyman from said shop, because he will be more inclined to work it in your favor.
OK. Does it make sense to have them do so? Or, is that the part of the work that I want to get done "on the side"?
I will be hunting recommendations shortly on body-shops/body guys.
Shawn the factory service manuals have dimensions the frame folks work towards. Basically a bunch of measurements on the unibody to check and see if its straight. I haven't checked the "contributer" manuals. Lukamcloud is spot on in the quote above. I 'll check and see but I think some are based of the core support. A good way to make sure. I'll check around for some shops as well.
OK. Does it make sense to have them do so? Or, is that the part of the work that I want to get done "on the side"?
I will be hunting recommendations shortly on body-shops/body guys.
My origional quote on the time and rate they would charge was incorrect. I asked my dad about it today while we were at work and he said they should only charge 4-5 hours at about $48/hour. Plus they charge for, what did he say, set-up and something else. i can't remember, i'm far too tired right now.
He also said that you should just take in the upper fender reinforcement, apron, and core support and have them do it. It should all be included in the 4-5 hours that they'll charge you to straiten it. He said that would be your best route, that way you can just take it back from there and throw on your sheet metal.
I watch this sh*t all day when I'm at work. It really is pretty cool to watch. Our manager is always bringing customers back to see the shop and show them the work.
As Jerryheads said, do not work with them if they won't show you around. Or if they are hesitant to do so. Check out there work. Look at a finished car, (they ALWAYS have cars that are done and ready to be "delivered") that way you know how good their work is.
Gotsta find at least one person who can do this kinda stuff you can trust. My habit is to find one shop with a particular expertise who've shown me I can trust 'em with my life. I've now been here six years; it took me three to find the independent repair shop and five to find the body shop; if the body shop guy (who's been at it for 30 years) said to me a frame shop could do it and be straight (no pun intended) I'd trust his word - because he's shown me EXTENSIVELY he's as straight as they come - like a Miko. You'll need shortcuts from that 'cause you can't take that long. Long term: the way to do this is find a place that looks and seems right, give 'em something you'd actually do yourself, and see how they do with it. Pick their brains; you're a pretty good wrench, you'll know whether somebody's trying to bs you. Send them a ringer - that gorgeous creature you had in the car - KNOW what's wrong with the car when it goes in and watch what happens. If they treat the woman the same they treat a guy that's a BIG indicator. But that's for the long haul of course, not now. But NEXT time you need 'em you'll have 'em.
Hell, take some time off, put it on a dolly and take it up to Lance. It's gorgeous up there :-).
Jer
Gotsta find at least one person who can do this kinda stuff you can trust. My habit is to find one shop with a particular expertise who've shown me I can trust 'em with my life. I've now been here six years; it took me three to find the independent repair shop and five to find the body shop; if the body shop guy (who's been at it for 30 years) said to me a frame shop could do it and be straight (no pun intended) I'd trust his word - because he's shown me EXTENSIVELY he's as straight as they come - like a Miko. You'll need shortcuts from that 'cause you can't take that long.
Long term: the way to do this is find a place that looks and seems right, give 'em something you'd actually do yourself, and see how they do with it. Pick their brains; you're a pretty good wrench, you'll know whether somebody's trying to bs you. Send them a ringer - that gorgeous creature you had in the car - KNOW what's wrong with the car when it goes in and watch what happens. If they treat the woman the same they treat a guy that's a BIG indicator. But that's for the long haul of course, not now. But NEXT time you need 'em you'll have 'em.
Hell, take some time off, put it on a dolly and take it up to Lance. It's gorgeous up there :-).
Jer
Thanks Jer. Need me an expert on my side.
Send them Lexi? She would eat them alive. Incredibly hot, mean, nasty, and full of attitude. Totally pissed at the world, I can so relate to her.
Progress Update:
You can see exactly where I caught the other vehicle, on the very end of my bumper. I damn near made it around that SUV. Not quite.
Maybe tomorrow, most likely Monday.
1) Remove brake fluid (tranny fluid? LOL) thing, so that I can remove the overflow bottle from the radiator. With some more clearance, I should be able to remove it.
2) Remove Radiator. The Spal fans are fine (hooray), the radiator is fuxored. I don't even know how to drain a radiator, but how hard can it be?
3) Remove AC condenser. Fuxored. Do I need to drain (uh...let the pressure out of?) anything before I unbolt this thing?
4) How the hell to I move that crumpled sheet metal/structure? Pull it outwards? Don't bother?
Donor vehicle to be purchased next week. It ain't going anywhere, and I need to work this weekend first ($).
BTW, I removed the battery. Figured that thing should not be hooked up as I am dismantling my car.
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