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THANX Blair! Looks like something else to add to the list for my own '93.
Shawn, sorry to 'borrow' the thread :-). I concur with Blair; any '93-4 should work, BUT if the 4dr has a diff part number, I'd sure want to know what the diff is - may only be some holes for wire loom clips or some such but I'd sure want to know.
Jer
No problem.
Only the Japan built 4dr has a different p/n. The us built 2dr and 4dr are the same p/n. I *doubt* there is a difference, but I would look really close and only use a jpn as a last resort.
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91 NX2k hard top (track whore) Celebrating 10 years of ownership!
93 SE-R (daily driver)
How to make a small fortune in motorsports - start with a large one. ~ Carroll Smith
The NX2000 radiator is an upgrade. I believe it flows 15% more over the B13 Se-r one.
Edit: I guess it flows a lot more than 15%. People state it's twice as big but is a direct bolt in.
Well then, an NX radiator it shall be. I love OEM upgrades, cannot afford a Koyo while rebuilding this car, and don't think I need one. I bet the NX radiator is no significant money over the SE-R radiator. Awesome.
Quote:
Originally Posted by brokeser
...read something about that not long ago. It also takes an inch of space towards the motor which in Shawn's case with having those Spal fans will not create any interfearance with all that emission equipment still there ...NX's is an excellent option and relatively cheap being an OEM item.
As far as the option to upgrade anytime sh*t breaks off or falls off..a thought I share with someone... go for the upgrade if the budget allows.
Wish I was there Shawn...I love me some junkyard hunting. Bag some tools and make a weekend of it. Start early...
L
I am pondering removing the emissions equipment. Uh....last time I got it inspected it required a...uh...throttle body cleaning. With cash. In order to pass. Passed with flying colors after the cleaning. It could have been the massive exhaust manifold leak causing the high emissions readings, since fixed with the SSAC. However, if I am going to pay for a cash tune up everytime I need to get it inspected, why even have the emissions crap?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blair
Any 93-94 will work for the core support and apron. The Japan built 4dr's show a different p/n for the core support, but I would bet they are the same, as US built 2dr's and 4dr's use the same p/n.
Thank you for the confirmation.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jerryeads
Shawn, sorry to 'borrow' the thread :-). I concur with Blair; any '93-4 should work, BUT if the 4dr has a diff part number, I'd sure want to know what the diff is - may only be some holes for wire loom clips or some such but I'd sure want to know.
Jer
You can borrow my threads anytime Jerrry. Good to know on the NX radiator.
Excellent link/source. In your experience, are non OEM body parts cool to use? I have no illusions about my car being perfect, nor 100% OEM. Who cares as longs as part works properly and fits correctly?
You guys kick-ass. I am fumbling along here, have no clue what I am doing, and could not even attempt this without your collective help.
My neighbors think I am crazy. Well, crazier actually.
You have my sincere thanks, all of you.
__________________
2004 Tahoe, stock and fully loaded.
'93 Classic - Original Owner, "OEM Plus" modifications
Looking at the length of the thread (and knowing it's going to keep going for a while, I'd think that all this is b/c usually in a thread somebody's either arguing or asking some question, silly or otherwise. THIS is a chance to pitch in - kinda like a barn raising - and there's also likely a difference 'cause there's likely few of us who haven't been chewed on by you one time or 'tother :-) and been better for it; you are without doubt one of the respected (and liked - sorry, being a pita didn't work - - - ) members of this family. Proud to be here.
J
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'93 B13, etc.
If you don't have the patience
to do it right the first time,
how is it you have the time to
do it over and over again?
Passed with flying colors after the cleaning. It could have been the massive exhaust manifold leak causing the high emissions readings, since fixed with the SSAC. However, if I am going to pay for a cash tune up everytime I need to get it inspected, why even have the emissions crap?
If you are planning on removing just the AIV, you'll be fine. I haven't run it on my last 3 B13's and I've passed emissions without it several times. B14's never had it even. (Now that I think about it, did lowport B13s have AIV?) As long as you have a good working cat and EGR, you should be fine. YMMV, since I don't know what Texas testing is like.
__________________
91 NX2k hard top (track whore) Celebrating 10 years of ownership!
93 SE-R (daily driver)
How to make a small fortune in motorsports - start with a large one. ~ Carroll Smith
Black '95 200sx SE-R Turbo Lowport 286whp/245wtq 12.306 @ 113.55
White '92 NX2000 All Stock.
White '92 NX2000 Automatic, stock, not moving, and FOR SALE <---- Click for Pics
Quote:
Originally Posted by BORNGEARHEAD
It's pathetic the amount of people in this country that believe all the bullsh*t being spewed out the mouths of Bush, Cheney, Rove, Rice, Snow, oil companies, lobbyists, etc.
Please DONT USE AFTERMARKET CORE SUPPORT!! I bought one, for my car a year ago. It was weaker than the beer can i was holding. I waited spent the $ and got oem. Huge HUGE! difference.
Argh! I just sold my NX rad. last month for $50....I even shipped it in a recycled Koyo padded box. Oh well.
As far as parts go, if you don't mind pulling parts off of cars, the "u-pull-it" yards will be your cheapest route. I like them because you get to see how stuff is originally attached before you go and put it on your car. It's sort of like "practice mechanics".
U-pull-it hoods and fenders go for around $25-$30 dollars in this neck of the woods. Finding one that isn't all smashed or rusted can be a challenge. If you find a donor car pay attention to where the fender attaches down by the rocker panel. It has a tendency to be all rusty down there. Non-SE-R's tend to be easier to find. You might luck out and find a nice black one with just a blown driveline. No paint required makes things easy peasy. The core support and such will be a challenge to get off junked car on your own without power tools. It might pay to have someone help out with that one.
PS. Remember to use the letter in the VIN to check the car's model year. The build year on the door jam isn't necessarily the model year. Keep that in mind.
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4 doors ain't so bad......
Last edited by Hammerin Hank : 01-31-2007 at 05:49 PM.
If you are planning on removing just the AIV, you'll be fine. I haven't run it on my last 3 B13's and I've passed emissions without it several times. B14's never had it even. (Now that I think about it, did lowport B13s have AIV?) As long as you have a good working cat and EGR, you should be fine. YMMV, since I don't know what Texas testing is like.
I think I will do this. Would sure make working down between the motor and front apron a lot easier.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Will
I am sooooooo glad that the car is quite savable!
Thanks Will. I am figuring this out with ya'lls help.
One of those links provided lead me to four (4) Sentra's (93/94) in one yard, just eight miles from my house. It is (once again) raining and about 40 degrees outside. Soon as it quits raining, I will go scouting that place and a couple others that show they have a Sentra or two on the lots. Look at the cars, talk to the staff. Figure out my game plan from there.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoloSol
Please DONT USE AFTERMARKET CORE SUPPORT!! I bought one, for my car a year ago. It was weaker than the beer can i was holding. I waited spent the $ and got oem. Huge HUGE! difference.
Aha. This is what I wanted to know. Cheesier material? Thanks for the heads up.
I bet I can find an OEM one in a junkyard.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hammerin Hank
Argh! I just sold my NX rad. last month for $50....I even shipped it in a recycled Koyo padded box. Oh well.
As far as parts go, if you don't mind pulling parts off of cars, the "u-pull-it" yards will be your cheapest route. I like them because you get to see how stuff is originally attached before you go and put it on your car. It's sort of like "practice mechanics".
U-pull-it hoods and fenders go for around $25-$30 dollars in this neck of the woods. Finding one that isn't all smashed or rusted can be a challenge. If you find a donor car pay attention to where the fender attaches down by the rocker panel. It has a tendency to be all rusty down there. Non-SE-R's tend to be easier to find. You might luck out and find a nice black one with just a blown driveline. No paint required makes things easy peasy. The core support and such will be a challenge to get off junked car on your own without power tools. It might pay to have someone help out with that one.
PS. Remember to use the letter in the VIN to check the car's model year. The build year on the door jam isn't necessarily the model year. Keep that in mind.
Gotcha. Thanks for the tips.
Check the VIN on the cars I look at, to make sure the year is right. In particular on that core support.
I reckon some scouting trips to junkyards is in order.
Gracias!
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2004 Tahoe, stock and fully loaded.
'93 Classic - Original Owner, "OEM Plus" modifications
I can't believe you guys didn't know about NX rads. The difference is very noticeable. My fans stopped kicking on almost entirely to the point where I thought they were broken.
Definitely go OEM Shawn.
oh and one of my SE-Rs did better on back to back years without the AIV. Just tune for power and you'll pass emissions almost everywhere. Except NOx in Cali.
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2004 Civic Si dd
1992 SE-R 'Fasty' Boost boost.
Not necessarily. The fin pitch is the only difference between NX and GTiR radiators. The practical difference is that the NX rad is more efficient for daily driving, and the GTiR is better on the track. Well that's what I read/Mike Kojima wrote on SE-R.net.
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2004 Civic Si dd
1992 SE-R 'Fasty' Boost boost.
Last edited by Benito Malito : 01-31-2007 at 09:46 PM.
last I check, shipping is in the $150 range. If you want an aftermarket one, source a aftermarket body parts store.
edit: forgot to add they're flimsy, but hey atleast they're not plastic like 60% of the new cars out there.
We have these huge body parts dealers and if that's in Utah I know there are some in Texas so he could save the shipping. so $60 new isn't bad. You are saying that every aftermarket rad support is flimsy? I have seen one and it seemed fine to me, and it only holds the headlights, hoodlatch, and radiator in place. It's not like it has to be as thick as OEM in my opinion.
Shawn how is this coming along for you bro? LMK if I can help in any way.
Thanks. I am at a bit of a temporary impasse with funds.
I updated my "Purchase List" in the first post.
Going junkyard hopping on Monday or Tuesday. I have two yards that are within twenty minutes of my house, they both have B13's. One has four of them.
Wandering into some body shops on the alternate day, depends on the weather.
Then I am going to have Racer_X run my parts list through his shop. See what type of deals he can hook up, he may know or can recommend a body man/shop here in Houston.
This is gonna take me a while, probably a couple of months.
__________________
2004 Tahoe, stock and fully loaded.
'93 Classic - Original Owner, "OEM Plus" modifications
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...NX's is an excellent option and relatively cheap being an OEM item. 
go for the upgrade if the budget allows. 
Bag some tools and make a weekend of it. Start early...
