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It's a long ass post, but 69chargeryeehaa painted his charger and it looks fantastic. There is a lot of detailed information scattered in this 20+ page post.
That is the step by step that I used for my car. I plan to wetsand and apply some more coats this summer for a thicker finish.
Black '95 200sx SE-R Turbo Lowport 286whp/245wtq 12.306 @ 113.55
White '92 NX2000 All Stock.
White '92 NX2000 Automatic, stock, not moving, and FOR SALE <---- Click for Pics
Quote:
Originally Posted by BORNGEARHEAD
It's pathetic the amount of people in this country that believe all the bullsh*t being spewed out the mouths of Bush, Cheney, Rove, Rice, Snow, oil companies, lobbyists, etc.
Okay so I'll try to get this as detailed as possible.
The total cost of the project is roughly 50 dollars. I forgot the individual prices, but it shouldnt be any more than 55.
To prep the car, I first washed the entire car thoroughly with soap, then let it dry.
To the parts that the paint was terrible (like the top of the trunk), i sanded it with a medium-grit sandpaper, then started to use finer sandpaper to get it smooth. After I was done sanding, I washed the car again with soap, making sure to get all the dust off the car, then let it dry.
The paint used in this project is Rustoleum Gloss black, which is essentially a multi-purpose paint (also used to paint houses with). I ended up using only 1 can of this paint, with some left over.
Then the key is to mix the mineral spirits with the rustoleum gloss black. I basically emptied out the entire paint can with all of the mineral spirits, and stirred it throughly with a chopstick. It may seem unusually watery, but this is the consistency we want.
The high-density foam rollers are also a must. Make sure they are the mini ones as well. The little mini-foam brushes also help a ton to get those hard-to-get spots.
I painted my car in the garage, out of the harsh rays of the sun. I attacked each body panel at a time, and slowly progressed around the car until the entire car was painted with the first coat. Make sure that you put on THIN coats. Thick coats are BAD. They drip a ton, and will not be as even. With the mineral spirits making the paint very thin, the paint will dry up very evenly. Also make sure that the paint doesnt leave drip marks on the bottom of the surface you are painting.
I started painting at about 10:00am in the morning, and waited to about 5:00pm to put on my second coat. I started to wet-sand out some of the imperfections in the paint. I had the hose running over the car while sanding it down with a very fine sandpaper. After another thorough wash with soap and water, and getting rid of the dust, I let it dry overnight.
Day 2, at about 11:00am again I put on another coat. This coat came out really good, so I didn't see the need to sand anymore. I waited to about 5:00pm again, and put on my final layer. By then, the car was evenly coated, with that super-glossy ass black paint. To finish the job, I put on the meguiars wax and applied it by hand, then buffed it out again with my hands.
This is probably the best DIY thing there is out there. Guaranteed that a $2000 paint job will look better than this technique, but if you are strapped for cash, and have about 2 days to do the project, go for it!
__________________ Eric Kim l 1991 Sentra SE-R l UCLA
Canon EOS 350D l Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 l Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II l Sigma DC 18-200mm f/3.5-6.3 http://www.erickimphotography.com
let us know how long the shine lasts in the sun before having to detail it. I was thinking some cans of clear spray paint (then wetsanding it smooth and polishing) would help
^ This probably would help a ton. But the thing is that I was really strapped for time for this project (I did it during my spring break for my mom's car which is in Norcal...and I'm going to school in socal). Hopefully the wax will protect its shine and whatnot well enough.
I do not suggest that anyone try this outside, it needs to be done where bugs and dirt and dust and grass will not get in the wet paint. I had some problems with this even inside my garage.
I really wanna do my car in Satin black with this method. But Im not sure it is possible..? Would I just not Buff the pait when I did my finish coat?
THe roll/pad application method seems great. Plus I get %45 off at Sherwin WIlliams due to my job as a paint subcontractor, so All the materials will be EXTRA cheap.
__________________
92 P10
-JDM DE
-SSAC Header, 2.5" VRS Exhaust
-UR 4pc Pulley Set
-JGY Street Clutch & 9lb flywheel
-B14 SE-R Trans.
-Pacesetter SS
-Tein Stech & KYB GR2
-P11 Wheels
WOW dude that looks like it came out of a body shop. Good job.
__________________
I've had a 94, 92, and 93 Sentra SE-R (in that order), and none of them have ever left me stranded.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Push it to its limits. Then push it past its limits. Then rebuild it with better parts.
Then the key is to mix the mineral spirits with the rustoleum gloss black. I basically emptied out the entire paint can with all of the mineral spirits, and stirred it throughly with a chopstick. It may seem unusually watery, but this is the consistency we want.
Maybe you can specify quantities here?
"Entire paint can and with all of the mineral spirits" is subject to interpretation, right?
I'd recommend using real paint (ppg, dupont, glasurit, sikkens, spieshecker etc.) with hardener, you can use the same process with that and it will stay shiny and be much more resistent to weather and chemicals.
Also, I recommend using a degreaser rather than soap and water before painting.
