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I would have to say no. I used a bigger one from harbor freight for some of the body work, but the wetsanding really seems to work much better by hand. This is a serious workout, Justin, I dont know that your paint is bad enough to warrant doing this just yet, but its your call.
Black '95 200sx SE-R Turbo Lowport 286whp/245wtq 12.306 @ 113.55
White '92 NX2000 All Stock.
White '92 NX2000 Automatic, stock, not moving, and FOR SALE <---- Click for Pics
Quote:
Originally Posted by BORNGEARHEAD
It's pathetic the amount of people in this country that believe all the bullsh*t being spewed out the mouths of Bush, Cheney, Rove, Rice, Snow, oil companies, lobbyists, etc.
you have to thin the paint almost to water consistency, or else you're going to be sanding forever and it will not come out smooth. use a fine foam roller (white color). marine (boat paint) also works great, works a lil better than the enamel paint because it thins by itself.
ok so I went at it again today with the paint, and the ratio of paint/mineral spirits that I mixed up yesterday seemed to lay on very good. It rolls on extremely thin, with the paint blotting together to form circles on the my trunk surface. After a little while, most of the paint seemed to level out fairly well. I had to lightly roll over the paint with the foam roller since there were tons of bubbles. Using only the weight of the roller as suggested on Moparts forum, the foam roller pulls on the paint bubbles, causing them to pop, without distorting the rest of the paint surface. Works really well, I'm sure I've got the hang of this. I can still (barely) see the blue surface of my original paint that I'm going over, so I guess the proportions are good, maybe I could add a little more paint.
What I noticed this time around is that the paint sticks really hard when layed on thinly. The paint I put on yesterday was super easy to scratch off with my finger nail. I guess the problem was that the paint was rolled on so thickly, that the top layer of the paint created a barrier between the air and the bottom layer that I rolled on (yes I overlapped the sh*t out of the paint yesterday, in addition to not using enough mineral spirits), which kept the bottom layer from flashing. However, today's thinly rolled-on layer dried within the first hour, and I swear it did not wanna come off at all when I tried scratching it with my fingernails.
What I have realized so far is that the most time-consuming thing above all else when painting a car is body work and prep work. The painting part only takes a few minutes, but the body filling, priming, and worst of all, sanding--is what takes the very longest. I have my porter cable and an array of sanding discs to help speed the process though. what a great tool to have
ok so I went at it again today with the paint, and the ratio of paint/mineral spirits that I mixed up yesterday seemed to lay on very good. It rolls on extremely thin, with the paint blotting together to form circles on the my trunk surface. After a little while, most of the paint seemed to level out fairly well. I had to lightly roll over the paint with the foam roller since there were tons of bubbles. Using only the weight of the roller as suggested on Moparts forum, the foam roller pulls on the paint bubbles, causing them to pop, without distorting the rest of the paint surface. Works really well, I'm sure I've got the hang of this. I can still (barely) see the blue surface of my original paint that I'm going over, so I guess the proportions are good, maybe I could add a little more paint.
What I noticed this time around is that the paint sticks really hard when layed on thinly. The paint I put on yesterday was super easy to scratch off with my finger nail. I guess the problem was that the paint was rolled on so thickly, that the top layer of the paint created a barrier between the air and the bottom layer that I rolled on (yes I overlapped the sh*t out of the paint yesterday, in addition to not using enough mineral spirits), which kept the bottom layer from flashing. However, today's thinly rolled-on layer dried within the first hour, and I swear it did not wanna come off at all when I tried scratching it with my fingernails.
What I have realized so far is that the most time-consuming thing above all else when painting a car is body work and prep work. The painting part only takes a few minutes, but the body filling, priming, and worst of all, sanding--is what takes the very longest. I have my porter cable and an array of sanding discs to help speed the process though. what a great tool to have
Hopefully this coming Saturday, I could see your trunk that you painted... Well it depends of what car you use that day.....Oh, btw, you have a 94 "red" SE-R now??
Hopefully this coming Saturday, I could see your trunk that you painted... Well it depends of what car you use that day.....Oh, btw, you have a 94 "red" SE-R now??
C
it won't be done by Saturday. I am only rolling on one coat a day *** I'm busy doing other stuff
You guys are making this sound more difficult *** I remember
like i said, the painting technique is not hard: that's the super quick and easy part (granted you have the paint ratio and rolling technique down, which I'm sure I do). It is the body work, especially the sanding, that takes many moons to do
__________________ Eric Kim l 1991 Sentra SE-R l UCLA
Canon EOS 350D l Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 l Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II l Sigma DC 18-200mm f/3.5-6.3 http://www.erickimphotography.com
If you are painting a car that already has horrible paint, even if you do this paint job "poorly", it will still look much better
but only if the paint is really bad, like clear coat peeling and primer starting to show in places. I do not think that Justin's SE-L looks bad enough to warrant this paint job, but mine sure did. It was down to bare metal on the roof.
I also bought the 'stops rust' one, same line as the one that the original poster bought. I bought 2 cans of the sunrise red. I popped the top yesterday to check and it matches closely. But buy the apple red and compare it also. Its always good to have an alternative color, plus I want to see if it matches up better as well.
Oh and you know what.. Does anyone know where I can buy the clear coat? I checked lowes and home depot and they don't have it. I'm searching online and nothing either.
