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I finished putting my head back on my car and got all of the cam timing all set right, but now to get the base timing set to 15 degrees i have to turn the distributor nearly all of the way advanced. Is there any possible way that from being over revved when the valves bent it could have thrown something off internally? Or has anyone ever came across this problem before? I have checked over the mechanical cam timing saveral times and it is perfectly matching the top dead center mark on the crank pulley along with the cams at 10 and 12 and 21 pins between the two. Other than the fact that i have to turn it further the car drives great with plenty of power and no loss of gas mileage. Any help would be appriciated since i havent been able to find any similar occurance on the forum yet, but i am still searching. Thanks
maybe thats what it was...i remember it was 19-21 i think i cant remember the exact number. I was looking at the jwt cam install guide and counted on there when i did it and i got the number on the forum to double check my work.
maybe thats what it was...i remember it was 19-21 i think i cant remember the exact number. I was looking at the jwt cam install guide and counted on there when i did it and i got the number on the forum to double check my work.
Ok, as long as there really are 20 rollers between the two. My buddies car had the same problem. I was able to retard the dist without the car in timing mode, to correct the problem.
20 rollers and the cam pins at 10 and 12 o-clock with the crank pulley at 0* slash, your number of pins could be right but your cams be advanced or retarted because the chain on the crank could have skipped, happened the first time i went to put the s4's in when i did the turbo kit, just undid the cam sprockets and advanced each cam one tooth *** it fell back one tooth on the crank, that was the first time that had happened but i caught it when i checked the cam time by cranking the motor over by hand. so no harm done.
Yeah there were 20 between the two. What did you do to get the distributor i guess you would call it "aligned"? If i unplug the tps sensor after the car is warmed up i can turn the distributor and it will change the timing and not try and correct itself like it normally would if you just turned the distributor. I have even tried turning the distributor to the middle with the car off and then when i checked it again it was really far retarded so i had to advance the distributor back almost all the way to the side to get it back to 15 again.
I never go by the links. I just stick to the old 10 and 12 with all the slack on the intake side for the tensioner to take up. If it looks wrong, it looks wrong.
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Sporting the P10... Awaiting a pet snail.
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Yeah my tensioner is functioning and i checked the cam timing a few days ago after the car has been running. I have been driving the car since i got it back up and running. Im thinking this weekend i am going to check the cam timing again along with checking to make sure the distributor didn't get damaged. If i cant force it back to being in the middle some how i think maybe reseting the computer and turning it to the middle before i do might work.
I had this very thing happen on my newly built HC N/A motor (91 highport). I had to go back and forth with setting idle speed and in and out of timing mode several times to bring it all in line; really frustrating, but I finally got it where I needed it. I had a problem with the idle (and therefore, the ability to set timing, and get the distributor where I needed it). If you are running into the same thing when you unplug the TPS, try unplugging the brown connector off the IACV harness. I was finally able to control the idle speed via the screw, and the timing via the distributor fell right in line.
Hope this helps!
Darrin
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Sad little 91 NX... recovering nicely!
So i pulled the distributor apart and it seemed as though the disc was still in good condition. Could it be possible that it could have gotten shifted out of alignment so that it reads a few degrees off? I even reset the ecu to make sure that there was nothing stored in the RAM that was causing problems and that still didnt fix anything. I guess its time to pull the valve cover off again and tripple check my cam timing, although ussually when its been off even one tooth it hasnt even sounded remotely like the normal idle. And it sounds like it is timed right.
I have the same problem. and when set to 15 it seems to struggle at top end. i back it down to between 10 and 15 and it seems to run fine. i have a 94 se-r with a 99 se put in. i put my 94 intake cam and dist. also top half of intake plenum. any one have an idea??
stelb13-ive have the same issue, my mechanical timing is correct,intake 10, exh 12, 20 pins in between, 0 degrees on crank pulley, but in order to get the engine running i have to advance the distributor, car feels great under light load until...anything above 5 k or wot car makes no power...someone mentioned to me that the crank could be off a tooth and the cam gears will still line up doesnt make sense but that is my last resort, ive asked this questioned to many and no one can give me a direction to look into.
