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I have been trying to find something easy to make the clutch cable get more adjustement. I have tried to PM Andreras, no luck. I drilled out my clutch cable bracket and pushed it back, but was never comfortable with it. At times the clutch would not engage w/o pushing the pedal waay to the floor, even with a high adjusted clutch cable. The bracket would also "crrrrreeeek" when it is driven after a while. I would also see it flex waay out with the holes drilled. Still, not satisfied, I went to Home Depot just walking up and down the isles.
Then I came across a 1"X3/4" Copper reducer. It is about 3 inches long.
The reducer fits inside the clutch cable bracket hole perfectly. It is a tight fit that can be pushed or tapped thru. (The 3/4" side). The 1" side, the clutch cable bushing fits inside of it perfectly. No welding needed. This thing gave me soo much adjustment over the drilling of the bracket it is not funny.
I did not take pics because it was late and I do not have a digi cam on hand, so my cam corder would not pick it up good. (Tomorrow it will)
But, the part number (not the SKU, the SKU was 1/2 rubbed out) was 187623.
It is in the plumbing section.
If this is old news sorry, but if it is new then hello waaay much adjustment.
Tomorrow I will see if the bracket flexes as much with the bolts back in the stock location.
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Quote:
Last edited by Shawn B : 01-16-2008 at 03:50 PM. Reason: So I could flame him harder
Quote:
Originally Posted by sonny
Sudden draws of power at the hands of a sub(s) playing some Too Short will eat away at any alternator
Last edited by Pretty White : 09-03-2004 at 12:14 AM.
Please get us some pictures if you can. I know there are a lot of us that need more adjustment on the clutch. I also tried getting one from Andreas---but I wasn't cool enough or whatever.
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1993 SE-R White
75 shot Nitrous
S4 cams + JWT ECU
OBX Header/custom exhaust
AEM intake/K+N
JDM Intake manifold-no emmisions
NX brakes
Fidenza Flywheel
ACT HDSS
Hyperco Springs
AGX struts
b/m shifter--greddy knob
ES master kit
ES engine/trans inserts
UR copy wp/crank pulleys
ac delete
White Kosei K1 Racing rims in 15x8
Whiteline racing brace
Awesome find man! I haven't had issues yet with my clutch, but I have found after 3 years of having the XT pp on the drilled bracket that the cable is stretching a slight bit. I think to get it adjusted out further I will have to weld a pipe on or do that trick you posted there.
brent
__________________ Coach - EEN Member/The Fist Don't F with me!
1993 NX 2000 -- Slate Grey Metallic bitches
1999 SE-L -- Turbo stuff on it
It looks kinda like this, excpet this one is a 1" to 1/2"
Yeah, it looks like that. The small side squeezes inside the bracket perfectly with a few slight taps. The cable bushing fits in the 1" side perfectly. Snug as a bug in a rug. And waay tons adjustment over drilling tow holes. My cam corder is busted and I am waiting for parts from Sony to fix it. But I am sure someone else will take a pic of it on a car soon.
i went out and bought that rducer this morning, and im gonna give this a whirl either later today or tommorow.
I am going to try to get a pic, be right back.......
OK, here is the pic. (1 hour later). Please excuse the quality as I am too cheap to buy a digicam and I had to use an analog cam corder. I know I will have to bite the bullet soon.
Last edited by Pretty White : 09-04-2004 at 08:27 PM.
yeah i just did this, and it went quite easily. but while i was in there i noticed that the clutch release lever is starting to shear off again. anyone else have this problem? i've already had it welded once. ideas anyone?
yeah i just did this, and it went quite easily. but while i was in there i noticed that the clutch release lever is starting to shear off again. anyone else have this problem? i've already had it welded once. ideas anyone?
OK, today after doing some more looking over the clutch cable I noticed that the cable bushing is being cut into the reducer.
Solution? A washer/spacer. Only thing is that a 1" ID washer is kind of hard to find. So I used a 3/4" washer and grinded the center hole out. I notice that after the car was driven the clutch was losing adjustment. It would be nice and buttery cold, but when driven after a while, it would lose it and be hard to engage into gear. I figured the bushing was being pushed into the reducer and losing what I adjusted. So lets see how this works out.
Cost 22 cents.
