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Old 11-08-2004, 04:37 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Finally found the real Chassis Foam/Foamseal

I am posting this so that others do not need to spend 1/2 day just trying to figure things out. Most of you are familiar with the "Chassis Foaming" procedure that SCC did on the 300zxTT. Link for those that do not The people that used to sell the foam no longer sell it. The product is called "Handi Foam". You can read more about it at www.fomo.com. (no jokes please ). They state in the article that the used Part# II-22. What they show in the picture is Part#II-12. Only difference is the size of the can. Fomo's part number is P10600 and P10650. Fomo will not sell direct but they will get you to the distributor. My local dealer did not have a good amount. I bought two of the II-22 and one II-12. Cost was $100. If they actually used the product they took a picture of then that should be about the same quanity as 5 cans of the II-12. I will try to do this procedure on Thursday and post the results after that. I have to take take the fenders off to get to the spot I most want to reach on the 240. They had a sample of this stuff at the store. It is clearly much stronger then the stuff lowes sells.
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Old 11-08-2004, 04:55 PM   #2 (permalink)
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fill us in on more details this is whats next on my b13 and i cant wait to see the results!
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Old 11-08-2004, 05:20 PM   #3 (permalink)
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So ITW doesn't sell this kit anymore?

http://www.foamseal.com/auto_aftermarket.htm

Sounds like this new company is cheaper anyway.

Matt
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Old 11-08-2004, 05:34 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by volfan98
So ITW doesn't sell this kit anymore?

http://www.foamseal.com/auto_aftermarket.htm

Sounds like this new company is cheaper anyway.

Matt
No, they do not. And yes it looks like the way I did it saves about $60.

Last edited by 98sr20ve; 04-03-2005 at 10:02 AM.
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Old 11-08-2004, 06:09 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I've never even heard of that stuff. Is it legal for any SCCA classes and/or SE-R cup? I wonder if filling up roll cages would help (or just add too much weight)?
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Old 11-10-2004, 06:22 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 98sr20ve
I will try to do this procedure on Thursday and post the results after that. I have to take take the fenders off to get to the spot I most want to reach on the 240. They had a sample of this stuff at the store. It is clearly much stronger then the stuff lowes sells.
Steve, keep us informed on the results. B13 or S13 owners might find the process a life-saver.

AS always, pics would be nice... As well as your choice of "spots you most want to reach"... Have you figured out whether any of the spots/cavities you plan to fill are used for anything else like cables, etc.?

And did you give any thought on going with a higher density stuff? I know 2 lb/ft3 was used on the SCC 300ZX but considering the irreversibility of the process wouldn't something heavier like 4 or 8 lb/ft3 be a better choice?

Chris
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Old 11-10-2004, 07:46 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hpro123
Steve, keep us informed on the results. B13 or S13 owners might find the process a life-saver.

AS always, pics would be nice... As well as your choice of "spots you most want to reach"... Have you figured out whether any of the spots/cavities you plan to fill are used for anything else like cables, etc.?

And did you give any thought on going with a higher density stuff? I know 2 lb/ft3 was used on the SCC 300ZX but considering the irreversibility of the process wouldn't something heavier like 4 or 8 lb/ft3 be a better choice?

Chris
I thought about that as well. Thru some research I found out that the stronger the foam material the more likely it is to deform the panel you spray it into. On the display item the stuff had totally bowed a 3/16th piece of composite wood. You can "pack it into" a panel and get greater density but you risk bowing the metal. Basically, you fill it 60% full (read direction on the box) and it will expand into the remaining area. With this risk I choice to use the less aggressive stuff. Plus, it was in stock. Shipping on this stuff really adds to the cost. I still plan to do this tommorow. I will take some pics of the areas that I do. I will have to check for cable tommorow but my memory tells me that nissan tends to run them on the outside in this little plastice tract. I recieved the strut bars yesterday and between them and the foam I expect the car to feel totally different. I will use my wife as the real test. She surprises me with her view on the changes to a car.

Quote:
Originally Posted by El Gabito
I've never even heard of that stuff. Is it legal for any SCCA classes and/or SE-R cup? I wonder if filling up roll cages would help (or just add too much weight)?
I expect this to add perhaps a total of 10 pounds to the car. All between the wheels and most low to the ground. As far as the SCCA is concerned I could care less. If I get protested on my occasional autocross then so be it. I am not building this car into a autocross car. I enjoy it far to much on a daily basis to ruin it by making it a truely competative SM car.

Last edited by 98sr20ve; 11-10-2004 at 07:52 AM.
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Old 11-10-2004, 10:00 AM   #8 (permalink)
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https://www.farmtekcatalog.com/lg_di...page_number=54
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Old 11-10-2004, 10:10 AM   #9 (permalink)
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so which one on the farmtek page is the one to use??

Also, I noticed case discounts are available from some of the sources, anyone local to Atlanta want to split a case?
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Old 11-10-2004, 11:05 AM   #10 (permalink)
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bottom right corner

https://www.farmtekcatalog.com/lg_di...page_number=55

Item 104365 is similar to what's shown in the SCC article. Larger sizes are listed as well.
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Old 11-10-2004, 11:14 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Shipping is expensive because it's a flammable product in a compressed can. Check out local places, like boating/marine places they probably have it. My dad used the two part stuff you mix by hand when he was replacing the floatation in his boat but I don't know what it cost him. It's not really dense though, it compresses easily but it looks like it seals up well. I'm wanting to use it more for keeping moisture out of my rocker panels than anything else, so I can't justify spending this kind of money when I could spend a fraction of that.
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Old 11-10-2004, 11:22 AM   #12 (permalink)
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You B13 people really should be doing this. It's going to make a huge difference on how the car feels and responds to tuning. You could run higher rate springs in the rear and actually have the car work with those rates. $100 is a fair price when you consider it like the other chassis braces we buy.

As far as getting it from the farmtek place. Why bother. I think my local place was cheaper and I did not pay any shipping. Just go to fomo.com. Find the phone number. Call and find a local dealer.
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Old 11-10-2004, 04:52 PM   #13 (permalink)
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have you checked out this ?

the HandiFoam might be good stuff, but I'm kinda wary about most polyurethane foams, especially when they tend to focus more on it's sound-deadening ability rather than it's structural capabilities. Keep in mind that adhesion and cell rigidity are what makes a structural foam work - that means a clean substrate is essential as is a urethane foam that doesn't crumble, "dry rot", flex, etc.
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Old 11-10-2004, 06:30 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Bjorn
have you checked out this ?

the HandiFoam might be good stuff, but I'm kinda wary about most polyurethane foams, especially when they tend to focus more on it's sound-deadening ability rather than it's structural capabilities. Keep in mind that adhesion and cell rigidity are what makes a structural foam work - that means a clean substrate is essential as is a urethane foam that doesn't crumble, "dry rot", flex, etc.
You should see how rigid this stuff is. Nothing like anything I have seen come out of a can before.
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Old 11-10-2004, 06:47 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Where are you injecting it on your B14? You going to do a write up on it?
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Old 11-10-2004, 07:38 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Where are you injecting it on your B14? You going to do a write up on it?
This is going into my new love, the S13. I will do a little photo shot of the areas and do a writeup.
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Old 11-10-2004, 08:23 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 98sr20ve
You should see how rigid this stuff is. Nothing like anything I have seen come out of a can before.
is it just really solid feeling or actually really stiff? I've used stuff that was real solid, dense feeling, but deformed under load easily - I've also seen stuff that's very rigid, super stiff, but crumbles very easily. I'd think something that's super stiff, but shock absorbant would be prety good stuff ... I've got to quit rambling. Regardless, good luck and take lots of pictures - I'm very interested in seeing how your project turns out
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Old 04-26-2006, 03:17 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bjorn
have you checked out this ?

the HandiFoam might be good stuff, but I'm kinda wary about most polyurethane foams, especially when they tend to focus more on it's sound-deadening ability rather than it's structural capabilities. Keep in mind that adhesion and cell rigidity are what makes a structural foam work - that means a clean substrate is essential as is a urethane foam that doesn't crumble, "dry rot", flex, etc.

Noooo, not this single part stuff, it wont set properly without moisture, and it rots much quicker.

Mike
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Old 04-26-2006, 08:12 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by UK-SRi
Noooo, not this single part stuff, it wont set properly without moisture, and it rots much quicker.

Mike
YMMV, but I've used it extensively in automotive applications in the past with no problems whatsoever.
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