Now that i know how NOT to get logged off after 15 minutes, i shall add some detail to the story of my 200SX. You can refer to the pics posted earlier in this thread. Its a bit of a long one so you`re forgiven if you fall asleep
yawn! Well lets start with the basics.
SR20DET - 1998cc, 4 cyl, 16valve, DOHC, VVT
Intercooled Garrett T25/T28 hybrid @ 0.7bar
5 speed manual RWD with LSD
Output - 200hp
Torque - 200lbs/ft
Weight - 3384lbs (with full tank and me)
0-60mph - 6.83secs
1/4 mile - 14.79secs @ 95.9mph
In the time between knowing i was getting this car, and actually picking it up, i got straight on the www and started building up my knowledge. There is a company here in the UK, who specialise in 200`s (amongst other Nissans) and they seemed to know what they were talking about. I wont mention the name however as i am going to say bad things about them.
The un-named company offer various kits to increase hp and torque, the two i was interested in were the 240 kit, and 270 kit. As the name suggests, the 240 kit will give an increase to approx. 240hp and 240lbs/ft. The 270 kit, approx. 270hp and 250lbs/ft. The 270 kit is basically the 240 kit with a better IC and an increase in boost. The 240 costs £699 and the 270 costs £1699. Thats an extra £1000 for an IC and a twiddle of an adjusting screw. Cowboys!!!
Here is what the kits contain and how much power is gained.
240 KIT
K&N induction kit +8hp
Mongoose stainless system +10hp
HKS FCD to allow boost over 1.1bar +0hp
Their own manual boost valve set at 1.0bar +27hp
270 KIT
As above plus....
HKS front-mounted IC with boost set at 1.2bar +29hp
The K&N filter is pretty much the cheapest you can get. The Mongoose system does not have a big enough bore and has a real ugly oval tailpipe. The boost valve is, well, manually adjusted. And the IC......this is where i started to lose my trust in them. They want you to buy a FMIC for £1000 when, on another section of their website, they say that FM is only needed to go above 300hp. A WMIC, with double the capacity of the OEM, would be fine up to that point. I cant remember how much they wanted for a WM and they`ve now removed them from stock so you have no choice but go for the FM. They also say that you should fit some iridium spark plugs to cope with higher boost but somehow left them out of the kit. The one thing they did do right for me, was to give me goals to aim for.
I dived straight in at the deep end by looking at the turbo first. I found it hard to get my head around how a turbo works but as soon as i had figured out the whole vacuum/pressure business i could start playing. I removed the bleed valves from the actuator hosing and by sheer fluke, the boost went straight up to 1.0bar. Unfortunately, it couldnt hold it very steadily and i quite often ended up head butting the steering wheel as the OEM FCD cut in and the car took a nose dive. I have since fitted a HKS EVC which holds boost steady at 1.1bar and cuts boost itself at 1.15bar. This stops the car taking a dive and my head feels alot better for it. As the EVC was second hand, it only cost £20 more than the manually adjusted alternative on offer. It also has its own boost display so you dont need a boost gauge, which again, they left out of the kit.
Next comes the breathing. I didn`t want a K&N filter, despite their 1million mile guarantee, so i went for an Apexi filter from Apex Perfomance (nearly the same name but not quite). The filter was £120 but Apex offered one for £80. They did this by buying loads of Apexi filters and then manufacturing the fitting brackets themselves. It would`ve cost £100 for the K&N so i`m happy with what i got. The Apexi filter is much better looking.
The next step is the exhaust system. I needed a new silencer as mine had snapped off the pipe, so i went to the local Nissan dealer. How much is a new silencer? £299 excl. VAT. Do you want the chrome surrounds that go on the twin tailpipes, they are £30 each excl. VAT. Oh and you`ll need bolts and nuts etc. That`ll be another £10........quick math.........That`s near on £500 incl. VAT. I could get a stainless system for that......hold on a minute......i could. And i will.
The ugly Mongoose system costs £399 but Apex have one that they manufacture themselves for £299. It hangs from the cat back and has a 0.5" wider bore with a 4.5" straight cut tailpipe rather than the squashed up oval one.
So now i have the 240 kit, apart from the HKS FCD, which i dont need yet as the EVC holds steady and is set under the OEM FCD limit. The HKS FCD costs pretty much the same where ever i go, but even after buying one, i would`ve still spent £100 less than if i had gone to the "other" company. Plus, the parts i have bought are better than the others. This only leaves the IC. Apex have a WM in stock with double the capacity of the OEM for £315. I`m pretty sure the other WMIC was nearer £600.
I haven`t bothered to really test the new output yet although i did get to do one 1/4 mile run. The extra torque has made traction very poor and its difficult to not spin the wheels. I fluffed the launch and only got a high 15 but speed was 105.1 mph. This leads nicely on to what rubber to use. I`ve tried a few makes now, like Eagle F1`s, BFGoodrich GForce profiler, and some Dunlop ones which i have at the mo. The Eagles were complete pants and the Dunlops aren`t much better. Fine in the dry but useless when damp. I have to say that the BFgoodrich have given the best all round grip. As soon as the Dunlops have worn down, i`ll be going back to BFG.
Thats the story so far. I guess the moral of this story is, look around. Dont buy from the first place you find. Even if they do know what they are talking about.
Ta Ta for now folks!
i want that insane emblem. where can i get one??