You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us.
Hold down "MODE" to go to between the setup screens. Hold down "select" to adjust brightness. Make certain to push in the rotary knob every time you change something or it wont save it. To set the RPM at which it engages, hold down "MODE" until it goes to a screen where it has an RPM readout (probably 0), then hit "MODE" once. This will go to solenoid 1 setup. Push the rotary button to change the values, push the "select" button to go between parameters (RPM, voltage, temp, boost, etc). Push "MODE" again to go to solenoid 2 setup.
The base settings should read as follows (hold "MODE" to access):
Top=little dash on top
Bottom=little dash on bottom
Pr - Top
C4 - Top
P2 - Top
When the 1 is shown, it says "ON"
When the 2 is shown, it says "ON"
In the actual parameter setup, I have (stock SR20VE cams):
1 (exhaust):
On 4800
Off 4790
Everything else is ZERO unless you set it for TPS or temp (only engages when warm).
2 (intake):
On 4600
Off 4590
Everything else is ZERO unless you set it for TPS or temp (only engages when warm).
***EDIT***
I used the yellow/red wire right off the ECU (4th one from the bolt, not right next to it) for the RPM signal. The green/yellow wire on the coil creates issues and will occasionally read "0". This was on my OBDI P10, which should be the same as a B13.
Will these specs activate the audible alarm at specified RPM also (assuming that you set the alarm)? I'm getting the red display, but no sound. Is there a volume setting or something?
is the y/r wire pin #3? there are 2 y/r wires, and i picked the one that is 4 pins away from the bolt, not right next to it. that wire is just a power source for another component. did you use the one that is 4 pins away?
is the y/r wire pin #3? there are 2 y/r wires, and i picked the one that is 4 pins away from the bolt, not right next to it. that wire is just a power source for another component. did you use the one that is 4 pins away?
Steve --
I used the y/r wire that you pointed out -- it's Pin #3, 4 wires from the bolt toward the driver's side, top row. Pin #2, the one that worked for me, is the 5th wire, right next to the one that you used, and it's blue with a black stripe.
When I was hooked to Pin #3, I got a signal that the MSS read as RPM. It was right most of the time, but jumped around a lot. I tapped into the wire a second time and got the same results, so I don't think it was an execution problem. Paul's site (Pachadwick) also reported that Pin #2 worked for him. In the B13, Pin #2 is the wire that goes to the tach from the ECU (through a couple of connectors).
Don't know what else to say, except that the car is still pulling all the way to red line. Except, again, that I appreciate all the help that you and other Forum members have given on this and other problems. I never would have even considered this project without the support of the Forum.
so either will work i guess, though yours seems to be more reliable in your case. mine doesnt jump around, but it does read slightly low (ground loop noise). it never reads "0" except for a second or two after i start it.
FWIW, my tach reads lower than the digital readout on the MSS. It's off about 200 RPM at 7400 RPM indicated on the tach. So I can rev by my tach to 7400 RPM even though the ECU is set to cut fuel at 7200. I chalk this up to tach error.
I have my solenoids connected directly to the battery and the MSS turns off just fine for me.
Same here -- no problems for me either. Could the problem that Ninety-Nine SE-L is having be related to the wiring of the orange and red wires? One is supposed to be switched and the other not -- but some folks, I believe, have wired them both the same way -- thinking that it doesn't matter. Just a random thought.
The alarm is triggered by RPMs. You probably have it set so low that it beeps all the time, along with the red display.
One of the RPM settings is "Alarm." I can't remember exactly how to get to that point in the programming, sorry. But you should be able to find it if you spend some time looking for it.
Same here -- no problems for me either. Could the problem that Ninety-Nine SE-L is having be related to the wiring of the orange and red wires? One is supposed to be switched and the other not -- but some folks, I believe, have wired them both the same way -- thinking that it doesn't matter. Just random thought.
Bill
Thats what it sounds like to me (having never touched one). One is the primary power the other is a switched power. The switched one causes the thing to turn on and off. Just like a radio. Of course you can avoid the entire issue by only giving the unit switched power. As long as it does not loose the settings when it looses power then it really should not matter.
AFAIK, there is no way to reset the MSS perse. You have to change the settings that you want to change. See Post #20 in this thread http://www.sr20forum.com/showthread....&highlight=MSS
for a more detailed run through on how to program the MSS.
Good Luck -- it's worth it once you get the MSS working.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
