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Go Back   SR20 Forum > What's New > Technical Information Library > NeoVVL Guides




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Old 02-13-2005, 03:29 PM   #1 (permalink)
Rockwood
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HOW TO: Configure GReddy MSS

Hold down "MODE" to go to between the setup screens. Hold down "select" to adjust brightness. Make certain to push in the rotary knob every time you change something or it wont save it. To set the RPM at which it engages, hold down "MODE" until it goes to a screen where it has an RPM readout (probably 0), then hit "MODE" once. This will go to solenoid 1 setup. Push the rotary button to change the values, push the "select" button to go between parameters (RPM, voltage, temp, boost, etc). Push "MODE" again to go to solenoid 2 setup.

The base settings should read as follows (hold "MODE" to access):

Top=little dash on top
Bottom=little dash on bottom

Pr - Top
C4 - Top
P2 - Top

When the 1 is shown, it says "ON"
When the 2 is shown, it says "ON"

In the actual parameter setup, I have (stock SR20VE cams):

1 (exhaust):

On 4800
Off 4790
Everything else is ZERO unless you set it for TPS or temp (only engages when warm).

2 (intake):

On 4600
Off 4590
Everything else is ZERO unless you set it for TPS or temp (only engages when warm).

***EDIT***

I used the yellow/red wire right off the ECU (4th one from the bolt, not right next to it) for the RPM signal. The green/yellow wire on the coil creates issues and will occasionally read "0". This was on my OBDI P10, which should be the same as a B13.
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Last edited by Rockwood : 04-13-2006 at 11:52 AM.
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Old 02-13-2005, 03:50 PM   #2 (permalink)
garyd
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Have you got the inlet cam on number 2? Most people Ive seen bring that on 1st
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Old 02-13-2005, 04:53 PM   #3 (permalink)
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yeah, intake is on #2. doesnt really matter, as long as you know...

i will edit that.
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Old 02-14-2005, 01:42 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Steve --

Will these specs activate the audible alarm at specified RPM also (assuming that you set the alarm)? I'm getting the red display, but no sound. Is there a volume setting or something?

Thanks much,

Bill

Last edited by billc : 02-15-2005 at 12:51 AM.
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Old 02-16-2005, 12:13 AM   #5 (permalink)
Rockwood
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i didnt set the alarm tone. i am sure you can, i just dont know how.

these settings will at least get it working...
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Old 02-16-2005, 09:34 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
these settings will at least get it working...
Right you are...
and thanks for providing them.

Bill
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Old 03-21-2005, 05:58 PM   #7 (permalink)
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added which wire to use for RPM signal.
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Old 03-21-2005, 07:15 PM   #8 (permalink)
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FWIW, the y/r wire (Pin #3) did not work for me in my 1993 SE-R. The one next to it -- blue with black stripe, (Pin #2) did work for me.
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Old 03-21-2005, 08:39 PM   #9 (permalink)
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is the y/r wire pin #3? there are 2 y/r wires, and i picked the one that is 4 pins away from the bolt, not right next to it. that wire is just a power source for another component. did you use the one that is 4 pins away?
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Old 03-22-2005, 08:29 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
is the y/r wire pin #3? there are 2 y/r wires, and i picked the one that is 4 pins away from the bolt, not right next to it. that wire is just a power source for another component. did you use the one that is 4 pins away?
Steve --

I used the y/r wire that you pointed out -- it's Pin #3, 4 wires from the bolt toward the driver's side, top row. Pin #2, the one that worked for me, is the 5th wire, right next to the one that you used, and it's blue with a black stripe.

When I was hooked to Pin #3, I got a signal that the MSS read as RPM. It was right most of the time, but jumped around a lot. I tapped into the wire a second time and got the same results, so I don't think it was an execution problem. Paul's site (Pachadwick) also reported that Pin #2 worked for him. In the B13, Pin #2 is the wire that goes to the tach from the ECU (through a couple of connectors).

Don't know what else to say, except that the car is still pulling all the way to red line. Except, again, that I appreciate all the help that you and other Forum members have given on this and other problems. I never would have even considered this project without the support of the Forum.

Bill Conner
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Old 03-22-2005, 04:10 PM   #11 (permalink)
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hmm...

oh well.

so either will work i guess, though yours seems to be more reliable in your case. mine doesnt jump around, but it does read slightly low (ground loop noise). it never reads "0" except for a second or two after i start it.
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Old 03-22-2005, 06:53 PM   #12 (permalink)
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FWIW, my tach reads lower than the digital readout on the MSS. It's off about 200 RPM at 7400 RPM indicated on the tach. So I can rev by my tach to 7400 RPM even though the ECU is set to cut fuel at 7200. I chalk this up to tach error.

Bill
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Old 10-21-2005, 08:25 PM   #13 (permalink)
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having problems guys

installed my mss on my sr16ve having trouble with rpm signal and mile per hour reading it seems wrong


need help urgently
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Old 10-29-2005, 03:37 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Here's my information to add to the thread.

EDIT: Here's a pic of how to hook it up:


Power source: Most people are confused as to what you should do with the red and orange wires. IMO, tie the red and orange together, tap it to an ACC source (cig lighter) and call it a day. It turns on and off just fine for me. Anything else is just more than it's worth.

I tapped my RPM signal to the back of the instrument cluster rather than to the ECU, I think this is MUCH easier than pulling out the ECU. This would be a blue/orange wire (center harness on the b14 and late B13....excluding the cars that don't come with a stock tach).

Don't tap the speed or any other parameters if you don't have to. RPM is the only signal you really need (unless you absolutely only want to activate the cams under certain throttle position). As soon as I unplugged my speed signal, my problems went away.

Another thing I noticed. Since the MSS provides the ground signal for activation, I'm sure most of you have tapped the other end of the solenoids to a constant positive battery source. It will work, however, I found out that when the car is off, the Greddy draws power THROUGH THE SOLENOIDS. This is not enough current to actually activate the cams, but it has caused my MSS to stay on full time, as well as my radar detector. Here's the solution. Do not tap the cam(+) signal directly to the battery, instead, tap it to a source that is connected to the ignition. If need be, use the same source as the red/orange MSS wires are tapped to and run a 3rd wire through the firewall. I'm still looking for a good source in the engine bay to tap to.

Last edited by Ninety-Nine SE-L : 08-08-2007 at 12:24 AM.
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Old 10-29-2005, 03:52 AM   #15 (permalink)
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BTW, how do I lower the volume on the alert system. I like it to turn red, *** no beeping, please.
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Old 10-29-2005, 01:33 PM   #16 (permalink)
mpg9999
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I have my solenoids connected directly to the battery and the MSS turns off just fine for me.
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Old 10-30-2005, 10:05 AM   #17 (permalink)
billc
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Quote:
I have my solenoids connected directly to the battery and the MSS turns off just fine for me.
Same here -- no problems for me either. Could the problem that Ninety-Nine SE-L is having be related to the wiring of the orange and red wires? One is supposed to be switched and the other not -- but some folks, I believe, have wired them both the same way -- thinking that it doesn't matter. Just a random thought.

Bill

Last edited by billc : 11-26-2005 at 07:28 AM.
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Old 10-30-2005, 10:08 AM   #18 (permalink)
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so does anyone know how to stop the beeping?
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Old 10-30-2005, 10:15 AM   #19 (permalink)
billc
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Quote:
so does anyone know how to stop the beeping?
The alarm is triggered by RPMs. You probably have it set so low that it beeps all the time, along with the red display.

One of the RPM settings is "Alarm." I can't remember exactly how to get to that point in the programming, sorry. But you should be able to find it if you spend some time looking for it.
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Old 10-30-2005, 10:16 AM   #20 (permalink)
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yea, I know how to actually stop the alarm from going off, I want it to still turn red, but I want to turn down the volume.
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