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Go Back   SR20 Forum > What's New > Technical Information Library > NeoVVL Guides




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Old 05-09-2006, 01:49 AM   #21 (permalink)
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mine lined up just fine as well, only problem i ran into was getting the ve bracket to work with the de throttle cable..the de cable is tighter/smaller so i had to fab something up, otherwise the cable would be so tight, it would have my throttle open at 4% at idle..
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Old 05-09-2006, 01:56 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tHe iLleSt RiCe
mine lined up just fine as well, only problem i ran into was getting the ve bracket to work with the de throttle cable..the de cable is tighter/smaller so i had to fab something up, otherwise the cable would be so tight, it would have my throttle open at 4% at idle..
Ah, I see. I hadn't thought of that. I'll figure something out when I get the engine in. Thanks.
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Old 05-12-2006, 04:05 AM   #23 (permalink)
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What colors are the DE IACV wires? I got some plugs mixed up and I'm not sure if I even have it working right now. prob why I can't get my idle right.
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Old 05-12-2006, 09:06 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yellow4g63
What colors are the DE IACV wires? I got some plugs mixed up and I'm not sure if I even have it working right now. prob why I can't get my idle right.
For the AAC it's a brown plug that is the same style as the injector plugs. For the FICD (that's the smaller, hex shaped part), it's a large oval shaped grey connector that looks similar to the diagnostic plugs.
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Old 05-12-2006, 02:32 PM   #25 (permalink)
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I got that one right since it was the same brown plug from the DE. But the VE purple plug is the one that my conectors got mixed up while I was making wires longer.
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Old 06-11-2006, 08:59 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Apparently, the VEs and/or B13s came with different throttle cable lengths. My '93 required drilling a 12mm hole in the VE throttle cable bracket and moving it to the hole previously occupied by a cylinder head-to-intake manifold bracket.

I'm still not comfortable with this, and will probably have to fab up a bracket to my satisfaction. Just had to add this for future reference.
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Old 06-11-2006, 12:30 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SERprise In WV
Apparently, the VEs and/or B13s came with different throttle cable lengths. My '93 required drilling a 12mm hole in the VE throttle cable bracket and moving it to the hole previously occupied by a cylinder head-to-intake manifold bracket.

I'm still not comfortable with this, and will probably have to fab up a bracket to my satisfaction. Just had to add this for future reference.
Same here. I was under the impression that it only needed to be bent or moved slightly, but it needed to move several inches. My brother in law was helping me put the engine in and he made me a new bracket out of some stuff I had laying around. I'm not happy with it either, and will be doing something different when I swap the B14 TB on so that I can hook the cruise cable back up. I was planning to use the old B13 bracket if possible, however the B14 TB is different, cruise and throttle are swapped, so the B13 bracket won't work at all unless I mount it upside down somehow. Needless to say, it would seem that the significance of the throttle bracket issue has been understated.

Last edited by Toolapcfan : 06-11-2006 at 12:31 PM.
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Old 06-30-2006, 02:05 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Just a tip.

Take off the VE throttle cable bracket, heat the bitch up with a propane torch on your garage floor. When the bend is red hot, pick it up with vise grips (AND OVEN MITTS) and bend it along the ground (wider, increasing the angle). Quench it in a nice big bucket of water. Wait at least 10 seconds and remove it from the water. Heat up the small bend at the tip and bend it back so the tip is exactly perpendicular to the base of the bracket. Once you have done this, you can use your B13 throttle cable on the VE without having to replace/buy anything, and it looks stock.

You also now have the ability to adjust your throttle because it will mount far enough forward for there to be a significant amount of adjustability.

It may take a few tries to get it, but it is well worth it.
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Old 10-02-2006, 06:12 AM   #29 (permalink)
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New boy here...........

At the risk of sounding stoooooooopid.. I have just recently got a UK spec 2L Sunny Gti to race in a domestic series in N. Ireland. Its what i think you guys refer to as a high port engine.

I was wondering if the head from the 1600 VZR would fit onto the 2 litre block? It'd take advantage of a loop hole in the regulations, that don't allow after market cam upgrades.

Your opinions pls?
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Old 10-02-2006, 07:51 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Wayne,

I suggest you start a seperate thread for your question.

Thanks,
Chris
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Old 12-13-2006, 11:33 PM   #31 (permalink)
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I thought I would add that billc's post here, http://www.sr20forum.com/showthread.php?t=121327, has useful pictures showing what he did with the coil & throttle cable.
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Old 12-16-2006, 09:06 AM   #32 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chriscar
I'm running an AEBS header. The VE exhaust ports are smaller and higher up on the head than the DE ports, so if you're not running a Fujitsubo VE header, ream out the the bottom of the bolt holes on the header flange to move the header up higher.
This is a great thread thank you Chris. Question: When a complete SR20VE is purchased, doesn't it come with the stock iron exhaust manifold, if I didn't want to use a header?

Also, I didn't see anything mentioned about an aftermarket or reprogrammed ecu on this thread, but I have on other VE threads. Are you using the stock DE ecu? Thanks, Mike
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Old 12-16-2006, 09:51 AM   #33 (permalink)
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Chris was running a Calum ecu when I saw him dyno this car about a year and a half ago. Most VE's come with the cast iron exhaust manifold but not the secondary pipe from what I've seen. Mine did.


Come to think of it I run the calum ecu too. He's a vendor here. My swap was almost a complete copycat of Chris's and it works great.
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Old 12-16-2006, 10:21 AM   #34 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Benito Malito
Come to think of it I run the calum ecu too. He's a vendor here. My swap was almost a complete copycat of Chris's and it works great.
Thanks Benito. I was just reading that Calum's ecu's are programmable if you have a laptop, etc. I don't have any of that, so can I expect his programmed ecu to work as is out of the box? Did you reprogram or tweak yours after installing it or is it fine as is?
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Old 12-16-2006, 05:23 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blownb310
Thanks Benito. I was just reading that Calum's ecu's are programmable if you have a laptop, etc. I don't have any of that, so can I expect his programmed ecu to work as is out of the box? Did you reprogram or tweak yours after installing it or is it fine as is?
The VE program runs right out of the box, you don't necessarily need a computer. The program according to Calum,

"The base rom was from a DE, most of it is ported from a SR16VE ecu and then tuned down. It still needs work. I chose the 16VE because the 20VE ecu just looked too dang passive, I think its heavily tuned for the CVT tranny."

http://www.sr20forum.com/showthread....light=Calum+VE

I think a FPR would be a good investment, this will give you some basic control over fueling and the distributor over timing. It would be a good idea to get the car on the dyno to check the A/F and play around with timing.

Forum member danilo20 posted his experience with Calum's VE program,

"ALready, thanks Calum, I tested the Calum ECU vs DE.

Mods:
Pace Setter Header
3inch exhaust from cat back
SAFC2
Z32 MAF
Intake
Ground Wires Due to power drainage when fans turn on - didnt work ;(
SR16VE Cams
Cam Gears Set at -2 1/2 Exhaust 0 on INtake.

The car week before the test made me 197whp, this was same night kaniel made 200whp.

Due to electrical drainage from the fans, Stock ECU at advanced timing and tuned at -20 - -30 on the superafc due to the Z32 MAF made me 190whp 148trq tuned at 13.9af

We tested the Calum ecu pluged in and SAFC set at 0. The calum ecu was super lean from moment we gased will about 65 or so where fuel droped to 12.1.I made 183whp on that run. So we tuned up the AF to 13.9 and made about 183-187whp.
Then, we brought back the timing to 0 on the distributor and power went up to 190whp (same as de). We bumped timing a little more back, and the car made 194whp 151trq.

Now, i dont think it was a good test because my car has problems with the Fans, when they are on, i lose about 8-10 whp. But i have to say, the Calum ECU has aggressive timing, and might need to run a SAFC to richen the motor up. the ecu made more power and torque from the moment i gased the car till the end. GJ Calum with the ECU, i would have to say this is the cheapest and best mod you can get for the buck."


http://www.sr20forum.com/showthread....ighlight=calum
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Old 12-16-2006, 05:28 PM   #36 (permalink)
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MY findings were alot diffrent from yours. Before I started to play with the rom my A/F was 12.1. I didn't really add more timing into it untill winter. Summer time I'm going to have to kill a few deg's out of the program.
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Old 03-26-2007, 03:25 AM   #37 (permalink)
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Noob question what is a SAFC?
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Old 03-31-2007, 12:32 PM   #38 (permalink)
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I have a SR20VET can any body tell me what can i do about this front cut?
currently i driving a B14 with SR16VE but i goin to upgrade it to 2lit ve
with Pulsar N14 4 theroter body/ mflow.
I intention is to install this VET into S14, but i have change my mind to 4wd.
Please advise me if any stronger alternative...
How bout Mazda FD from rotary to L4 NA+Turbo
Is this workable?
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Old 08-11-2007, 10:20 PM   #39 (permalink)
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can my JDM SR20DE Fidanza flywheel and, unorthodox pully/ pully set fit in a SR20VE? im really pretty set on buying a SR20VE engine to swap in my b13 SE-R so far i have is a highport jdm sr20de with fidanza flywheel,ACT 6Puck Unsprung,unorthodox pully and pully set,4-2-1 headers 2 1/2 straight back exhaust no cat,CAI,No A/C the car is completely gutted and sitting on 15'' black slipstreams and i was thinking of swaping my mods from my de to my ve and hopefully feel very cheesy after the results
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