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Go Back   SR20 Forum > What's New > Technical Information Library > NeoVVL Guides




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Old 05-03-2005, 08:37 AM   #1 (permalink)
chriscar
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92 Highport to SR20VE Install

Pictures moved to a different host http://picasaweb.google.com/cscarpulla/VEInstall

I just installed a VE into my 92 (highport) SE-R. Seems allot of people who've done the swap start with 94 (lowport) SE-R's, or B14's, so some of the things they say/do were different for me.

TAKE THE HOOD OFF!!!! I'm surprised more people don't do this, it takes about 3 minutes and makes the engine swap so much easier.

Use the VE throttle body and tps.

Plug the TPS connector into the top of the VE TPS.

Find a 3/4 to 5/8 hose adapter in the HELP section of your local auto parts joint. (Pictured right below the TB)


One of the heater hoses gets cut and is a straight shot to the coolant hardline under the IM


I'm running a DE MAF.


And a HS lowport CAI


Get an MSD 8969 digital switch, or a Greddy MSS.



Use the B13 distributor and external coil, just cut off the bottom leg of the distributor, because the lower bolt is in a different location on the VE head, plus there's interference between the lower leg and the head.

Fab a bracket out of bar stock for the coil.


Use spare exhaust manifold washers as spacers to move the throttle bracket forward so the throttle cable is perpendicular to the accelerator drum.


For the IACV and AAC, you can open up the loom and pull them back to get enough length. You'll have to use the VE IACV plug, or some people have just used the DE IACV itself.

I scrounged up some connectors to wire the VVL solenoids, I think one was from the knock sensor, not sure where the other one came from.


Also, install the sensors for your gauges before you put the engine in. Here's my water temp sensor.


I'm running VDO gauges, and the oil pressure sender is HUGE. Installing it with the Nissport adapter was tricky, because you need to angle the Nissport at just the right spot in order to have enough clearance for the sender. I did this after the engine was in the car, and it was a real PITA.


I'm running an AEBS header. The VE exhaust ports are smaller and higher up on the head than the DE ports, so if you're not running a Fujitsubo VE header, ream out the the bottom of the bolt holes on the header flange to move the header up higher.

Get the VE exhaust gasket from Greg @ Mossy.

Buy a tube of McKanica aerosol grey sealant. This stuff is the greatest thing since sliced bread. The aerosol gives you amazingly precise control, and you can lay down the sweetest bead of sealer ever. I bought it at PepBoys, and Summit carries it as well.


You definitely want to take as much of the harness out of the engine bay and prewire the engine before dropping it in the car. I needed to extend the two ground wires at the back of the intake manifold, and it was a stone bitch to do with the engine in the car. Picture yourself laying across the engine bay, with your arms behind the intake manifold trying to solder the wires. That was the only wiring other than the VVL solenoids I neglected to do before putting the engine in, and it really bit my ass.

Miscellaneous stuff....

If you're thinking about getting Outlaw spacers, do it before installing the engine.

You need B14 oil filters now.

Swap over both of the the DE temp sensors.

DO NOT reuse the flexplate bolts! They are shorter than the flywheel bolts. (Thanks Linus ).

C
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Old 05-03-2005, 11:10 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Well Chris, this time you outdid yourself!!!

Every pic tells a story by itself and the tips are exactly what the doctor ordered!!
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Old 05-03-2005, 11:58 AM   #3 (permalink)
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great write up chris, but about the oil filter part are you sure it is b14 cause i use the VQ engine oil filter on both of my motors
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Old 05-04-2005, 12:43 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Awesome write-up there, Scarpulla!
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Old 05-04-2005, 12:47 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Simply awesome.
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Old 05-04-2005, 12:55 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Use a low port DE tb if you plan on keeping your cruise control. Also, I would remote mount the oil pressuer sender using a 16" braided stainless line. I have never heard of a Nissport adapter breaking *yet* but I wouldn't want to take the chance with a $1200+ engine. If you search under "its begun" you will find the writeup of my swap and the oil line info is there.

Nice write-up scraps
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Old 05-08-2005, 12:51 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Hmmm Id like to see the heater hose part in depth.
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Old 05-09-2005, 02:00 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by La_Noche
Hmmm Id like to see the heater hose part in depth.
Which part are you reffering to? Let me know, and I'll do my best to answer your question.

C
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Old 05-09-2005, 03:28 PM   #9 (permalink)
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do u have a vacuum schematic?
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Old 05-09-2005, 04:59 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RE-Spect
great write up chris, but about the oil filter part are you sure it is b14 cause i use the VQ engine oil filter on both of my motors

I'm pretty sure they are the same thread pitch. JustinP10 uses a VQ filter, and I use a b14 on mine.
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Old 05-09-2005, 05:00 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by La_Noche
Hmmm Id like to see the heater hose part in depth.

Instead of both heater hoses going to the driver's side of the motor, one goes to a fitting on the passenger side, and the other goes to the driver's side. It doesn't matter which is which.
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Old 05-09-2005, 05:00 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Good write up Chris
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Old 05-09-2005, 09:05 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chriscar
Which part are you reffering to? Let me know, and I'll do my best to answer your question.

C
I remember reading mr. sy-santos' write-up and he mentioned that the one coolant line plugged straight into the firewall but the other one need some extra hosing and adapters. ill try to find it.
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Old 05-09-2005, 11:28 PM   #14 (permalink)
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i meant like what kind of hosing you need and the adapters you need. I know nismoSER said what adapters you needed. Just not sure on the hosing.
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Old 05-10-2005, 08:07 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I hit my throttle cable bracket twice with a rubber mallet, and then used pliers to twist it slightly. The threaded portion of the cable is flat on two sides and slips into the ve bracket. Took all of a minute to do. I don't understand why everyone is using washers and home depot brackets?
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Old 05-20-2005, 09:14 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Hey Just asking a quick question. My P11 Primera Came with the SR18 instead of the SR20DE, now if i want to swap in the SR20VE can i still follow, the setup for the SR20DE. I mean computer Harness Etc. Also what is the big problem when you use the Ve ECU on a manual car?
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Old 05-23-2005, 09:26 PM   #17 (permalink)
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BTW The other plug you can use for the VVL solenoid switches is off the JDM coolant temp sensor.
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Old 01-10-2006, 08:33 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Great Write up These little tips make it a ton easier!!!
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Old 04-15-2006, 09:15 PM   #19 (permalink)
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well, i just jumped on the bandwagon and bought me a vvl motor..chris, expect some questions from me in the near future
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