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^^^ we are in the same boat... i did the same exact thing you did... i was in timing mode or tried like ten times i still got the same idle... i even tried retarding my distributor down to 800 rpms but my timing was all messed up... and was back firing and bogging.... put it back to 15 on timing and went back to 1000 rpms... look like that is as low as i can get it
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(New all motor) 96 B14: Sr20VE JWT ECU, Msd switches, ES mounts and Bushings,2.25 stomung exhaust, KYB shocks, Eibach Sportlines, NGK Plugs/wires, ACT HDPP & Street disc, Hotshot CAI & Headers gen. 5,N-1 intake mani/TB,thermo spacers, B15 LSD trans, AEB1 GEN. 1 Header...
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When I bought my car the cold idle would be at 2200 and even when warm it would linger for like 5 sec before it would settle when going to neutral... after setting the timing and TPS and I was finally able to play with the idle which used to stay at 1k. Now its at 800rpm all the time. From what I remember ***, the lil allen key made a huge difference to how high my cold idle is now...clockwise lowered it and I backed out the alley key on the throttle body a bit to help.
When I bought my car the cold idle would be at 2200 and even when warm it would linger for like 5 sec before it would settle when going to neutral... after setting the timing and TPS and I was finally able to play with the idle which used to stay at 1k. Now its at 800rpm all the time. From what I remember ***, the lil allen key made a huge difference to how high my cold idle is now...clockwise lowered it and I backed out the alley key on the throttle body a bit to help.
where is thes screw with the alley key is this on the throttle... i also have the n-1 TB...
I dont have the N1 throttle body... stock VE one which has an allen key which acts as a stopper for the throttle body and another one below it for the cold idle. But like the prior post, the position of the TPS is important for whatever reason for a good idle. It didnt matter what voltage but the position at first...same thing with both my gtir motors. This stopped the idle jumping once i advanced timing and the lingering idle when going to neutral.
hi,i need help with my car,car idles high but when it warms up its missing...rpm will drop to like 300 rpm and sometimes itll stay on 800 or turnoff completely..i've replaced the complete intake manifold along with the acc solenoid..is there any adjustments that will fix this problem???engine was just replaced with a jdm sr20de and accelerates great only with idling problem..any info will help.tailpipe sounds like it s puttering even after i changed sparkplugs,also checked for vacuum leaks but didnt find any...thanks
Dont have a consult but the Nprobe... which is similar. You goto work support which allows you to adjust, TPS, TIMING, and ect. Hit Timing and it will ask you to confirm... once that is done it locks it automatically so you can adjust away.
The fsm proc for setting idle without a consult pretty much works for the VE.
With Dre's help, this is what I've done:
For the cold air idle, take an 8mm box end for the lock nut and a 4mm (I think) allen, screw IN the set screw a good ways - almost but not quite flush with the locknut (don't want to strip the threads). That ought to take your cold idle down to somewhere around 1500-2k.
Warm it up.
With everything warm and plugged in, hold revs at 2k for about 2 minutes, then race it to 3-3500 a couple times, shut it off, unplug the tps, fire it back up, rev it a couple times, let it settle down. CHECK to make sure your timing is where you want it. (the proc is the same for base timing, ususally 17 degrees btdc at around 800 revs) CLOSE the IACV knob on the VE manifold (turn clockwise from the passenger side) DO NOT tighten hard. Assuming it's still running, set your base idle to where you want it with the idle set screw on the throttle (it's on top between the cable wheel and the tb). I know this isn't in the fsm, but this way you get to use the IACV knob to fine tune when you're done. I did 900 using the tb set screw as mine idles relatively smoothly there and I don't shake the woman out of the passenger seat. MAKE SURE it's open enough so that the throttle plate isn't binding in the tb (you'll feel it stick if it's too far closed, open it up at least enough so that it doesn't bind as you open it.). Shut it down, plug the tps connector back in, fire it up, go fiddle with the IACV knob to your heart's content, and you should be home.
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'93 B13, etc.
If you don't have the patience
to do it right the first time,
how is it you have the time to
do it over and over again?
the idle will JUMP to 2000RPM and hold steady. The only way to bring it back down is to take the key out, wait a few seconds, and restart the car by key.
AND - after messing with things a lot, including setting tps, the ecu needs to get taught to rethink things - simply: at idle (warm), unplug the tps connector, WAIT for 5-10 seconds until the ecu finally figures out the tps isn't there anymore, your obnoxiously persistent fast idle will drop to around 700 unless you've closed both the AAC valve and the throttle plate all the way, in which case it'll die. Plug the tps back in and the ecu will bring idle back up to 750-850 or so. THEN check your tps voltage, THEN do your base idle stuff. TPS voltage on a DE should be .5; a VE, according to Miko, .48 with throttle plate CLOSED. You can set tps with engine off if you have a consult. Coolblackser taught me to reset the tps/ecu.
Yes. Advanced timing especially (firing too late). Will also make for a very sluggish car. Most DE cars want around 15 degreed btdc. Many push them to 17, seems to be okay. Even 10 degrees btdc might cause overheat.
I had my ve checked with consult 1 :
MAS AIR/FL SE = 1.03V
COOLAN TEMP/S = 99 C
O2 SEN = 0.79V
M/R F/C MNT = RICH ( KEEP CHANGING BETWEEN RICH AND LEAN)
THRTL POS SEN = 0.58V
INJ PULSE = 2.4 MSEC
IGN TIMING 5BTDC
IACV-AAC/V = 44%
TPS WAY high. Reset for VE with throttle plate CLOSED with AAC enough to idel to .48v. Voltage is the signal to the ecu where the heck the throttle plate is. Closed is .48 according to Andreas. You'll get somewhere over 4.0v wot (with ignition off, no sense blowing up motor). What the heck is your timing doing at 5? Should be set at EXACTLY 15 btdc for a jwt ve ecu and around 15-17 for DE ecu. UNLESS you weren't in base idle mode, in which case they need to do it again for you, no charge. If they didn't they should know better!
TPS WAY high. Reset for VE with throttle plate CLOSED with AAC enough to idel to .48v. Voltage is the signal to the ecu where the heck the throttle plate is. Closed is .48 according to Andreas. You'll get somewhere over 4.0v wot (with ignition off, no sense blowing up motor). What the heck is your timing doing at 5? Should be set at EXACTLY 15 btdc for a jwt ve ecu and around 15-17 for DE ecu. UNLESS you weren't in base idle mode, in which case they need to do it again for you, no charge. If they didn't they should know better!
I'm using original ve ecu which came together with ve motor. So which is the correct one?
