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TPS should still be .48, which is apparently VE setting for closed throttle (it's the reference point that tells the ecu 'closed throttle'. In the absence of other data, I'd do 15 degrees btdc.
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'93 B13, etc.
If you don't have the patience
to do it right the first time,
how is it you have the time to
do it over and over again?
You guys are wrong on this one. If you are using the VE TB the cold start idle is adjusted on the TB. The tubes that run under the TB run water into the device under the TB that self adjusts the TB with water temp. When cold the plunger pushes out to open the TB when hot the plunger goes in and that close the TB to reduce the idle.
I'd been wondering how the VE warms up since it doesn't use the IACV-Air Regulator found on the DE.
TPS WAY high. Reset for VE with throttle plate CLOSED with AAC enough to idel to .48v. Voltage is the signal to the ecu where the heck the throttle plate is. Closed is .48 according to Andreas. You'll get somewhere over 4.0v wot (with ignition off, no sense blowing up motor). What the heck is your timing doing at 5? Should be set at EXACTLY 15 btdc for a jwt ve ecu and around 15-17 for DE ecu. UNLESS you weren't in base idle mode, in which case they need to do it again for you, no charge. If they didn't they should know better!
I have tried to set my TPS to .48v as you said. But the most I can do was .56v and TPS can't be rotated more than that point.
Is my TPS sensor bad?
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i can't be who i'm not
Last edited by icareless : 05-04-2006 at 01:22 PM.
?????????????, he said - -
Wow. Dumb question: are you sure you've got both screws loose? This is an Andreas question, I'm afraid - if that thing stops at .55, the ecu is being told that the throttle is a bit open when it's actually closed. But while it's tempting to fault the tps, I really don't know. Make sure both top and bottom screws are loose and you can rotate the tps body freely - I must admit I never tried to back mine - um - from the driver's seat, clockwise very far, didn't need to. It went a good half turn (oops) counterclockwise when I hadn't loosened it up enuff and it 'popped' loose. Remember, if I didn't mention it, that you can fiddle with this thing with the engine not running. The tps doesn't care as long as you've got the ignition on to give it voltage. It's nothing more than a rheostat, I presume. How many miles on this engine (including the intake setup)?
?????????????, he said - -
Wow. Dumb question: are you sure you've got both screws loose? This is an Andreas question, I'm afraid - if that thing stops at .55, the ecu is being told that the throttle is a bit open when it's actually closed. But while it's tempting to fault the tps, I really don't know. Make sure both top and bottom screws are loose and you can rotate the tps body freely - I must admit I never tried to back mine - um - from the driver's seat, clockwise very far, didn't need to. It went a good half turn (oops) counterclockwise when I hadn't loosened it up enuff and it 'popped' loose. Remember, if I didn't mention it, that you can fiddle with this thing with the engine not running. The tps doesn't care as long as you've got the ignition on to give it voltage. It's nothing more than a rheostat, I presume. How many miles on this engine (including the intake setup)?
yes, i got both screws loose and rotate TPS clockwise to hit the other side.
I got this motor comes completely with all harness, abs, ecu, speedo meter is around 44000km.
Sounds like you got the whole front clip, good deal, 44k km is only a bit over 27k miles, a good fresh car. SURE as heck the tps shouldn't be "worn out". Dunno, sir. You are NOT going to hurt the car with the tps at .55v, by the way. I think the only thing will be that it will throw the mixture off a bit. I've never had mine off, hard to imagine there's anything in there messing with your stop or the rheostat function. There are some really talented geeks on this forum, I suggest you plant this question in the VE section in the Main Forums - you'll get broader readership and help there. Hold off on tearing that thing apart yet, methinks.
Sounds like you got the whole front clip, good deal, 44k km is only a bit over 27k miles, a good fresh car. SURE as heck the tps shouldn't be "worn out". Dunno, sir. You are NOT going to hurt the car with the tps at .55v, by the way. I think the only thing will be that it will throw the mixture off a bit. I've never had mine off, hard to imagine there's anything in there messing with your stop or the rheostat function. There are some really talented geeks on this forum, I suggest you plant this question in the VE section in the Main Forums - you'll get broader readership and help there. Hold off on tearing that thing apart yet, methinks.
I used to have this issue of it idling at 2,000 or more rpms from a cold start. Soon as I got a JWT ECU it fixed this problem. Not saying this the fix-all, but it worked for me without having to adjust the TB.
Same here. I put in my Calum VE programmed ECU and the VE maf and all my idles issues have been gone thus far, and that includes those that I had with the DE.
hey im curious to know what would be a better off, currently i have 500 bucks. I swaped a sr20ve into my 200sx 97 the only thing that i have in my car is the engine and i havent done any mods. would it be better to buy a fujitsubo header or reprogram my sr20de ECU with JWT? what can i do first? Also my check engine light is on which piss my off but i think i got used to it
I'd say take the $500 and buy a managment system. The JWT upgrade is pricy in my opinion and will need further changes once you add other mods to the car.
I've recently stumbled on an excellent standalone system that uses all the std sensors etc. and has some features you could only find on some VERY expensive systems. Best part is it retails for under $450!!
drop me a pm and I'll send you more info if you're interrested.
Hey Sabre thxs for the info. So let me see if i get it the JWT is to pricy which i dont have worry about it right now, right? so it would be a better to buy a managment system, What advantage will I have buying that? thxs
AFAIk the JWT ECU upgrades take VERY long and cost in the region of $600. It's all good and well but if you later change your cams or anything else then you may need to send the ECU for reprogramming again, If you change your TPS or MAF, it has to be reprogrammed again.
Management systems allow you much more freedom and you can tune it yourself or have a reputable tuning shop tune it to maximise the power and economy for whatever your setup is at any particular time. There are heaps of other features like setting your own rev limit, launch control, traction control, enough outputs to switch the vtec cams individually, etc. So you'd also be saving on not having to purchase MSD switches for your cams etc.
