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Supercowboy:
Is lash adjusted by variable thickness shims like the DE head? Will the DE shims work with the VE?
Another question: I am interested in using the VE head, but class rules stipulate
variable valve timing and lift devices are illegal, although they can be used if the variable part is eliminated. Would it be possible to lock the rockers together so that it always uses the large cam profile?
You can wire the solenoids to always be on. The car will idle like crap and have no low end power though.
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1996 200SX SE-R VE powered
2004 Subaru Forester turbo
2006 Mitsubishi Evolution IX
Jeff do you remember the guy that has the p11 race car(yellow, ve,serious carbon fiber intake manifold?) I think he has some BIG cams that eliminate the VVL since vvl is prohibited in ther class he races in.
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I do remember it yes, I was just wondering if it's possible to lock the rockers together permanently. All VVL apparetus must be removed, including the solenoids. I'm not even going to run an extra oil line to the head, just lock them together so it's awlays on the big lobe.
If you can figure out an easy way to lock the pins im sure that would work. Could use remove the solenoids and run an oil line to the head so that the pins have constant pressure?
Hmmm...
Does it mean that it would be no problem if I operate both cams in the same time on the "older" VE motor?
e.g. I'm trying to make a Greddy E-Manage work on the sr16ve. It has only one VTEC stage... and it might work in than case. Am I right?
Yes you can activate both cams at the same time, alot of us do it. You can also use the greddy e-manage to activate you vvl. Just make sure you use a relay otherwise you will fry the board.
Very sweet explanation on the VVL system, but one thing I have been researching but haven't been able to find is how the camshafts operate independently of each other, unlike the Honda VTEC system?
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LONG LIVE THE SR20!!
DRIFTING THE ABSTRACT!!
Two different solenoids - one for each cam - I'm just using one switch for now (msd 8969 is a common approach) at 4600, spins the tires in 1st when it hits the cams. REALLY serious people use two 8969's (or another switch) as the motors build power a bit better when the intake cam switches about 42 and the exhaust 48 or thereabouts depending on the setup (but others argue switching the exhaust first ) The best VE man in America is Andreas Miko; you'll find him here and his signature has his fone #. If you want to get into this give him a call.
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'93 B13, etc.
If you don't have the patience
to do it right the first time,
how is it you have the time to
do it over and over again?
And Sonny, depends on what ya wanna do. The VE seems to be more reliable, you're not fixing pumps (or blown up motors) all the time. If you wanna go in a straight line, maybe a pump motor. But if you want to use the car as intended, which is to say go around corners, and/or most of your driving is, um, spirited street, I recommend (a) a VE and (b) talking to Andreas. That's not just me; others may chime in; esp. if you're on the right half of the country (he's in FL and shipping DOES cost $) his reputation for doing EXACTLY what he says he's going to do is flawless.
Sorry to dig up an old thread but i have a nissan nx 1600 and ive been on the site awhile now. Anyway i have been juggling back wiether or not to swap it for a sr20det or to try to turbo it. Well i was reading about the sunn 1.6vvl. IS there a way i can change the old gas16de to the 1,6 vvl at a more cost affective approach than an engine swap or turbo but still see some nice performance gains?
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Nissan Pulsar Gti-R'91
VZ-R`97 sr20ve, n1
) The best VE man in America is Andreas Miko; you'll find him here and his signature has his fone #. If you want to get into this give him a call.
