93specv

nice clean block back from the machine shop........








nice drill and tap for oil return.......


this i dont get....it looks like they started to clean up the exterior and then changed thier minds?????


either way so far i am satisfied. the guy doing the port match job is now in florida. if only he would quit having fun so i can oh well. i've got my block back and ready to order some parts.....det pistons/rings, bearings, and some ARP bolts should start me off good!

__________________
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93specv

mike: your link from page no longer works.... http://www.sr20.net/v/mikeG/album27/DET/?

i was gonna cross reference for comparison, oh well

ssnh

http://www.sr20.net/v/mikeG/DET/clean2/? ?
http://www.sr20.net/v/mikeG/DET/? ?

tre fidde

very clean... i would get the rest of the block clean though and replace the freeze plugs

__________________
93' SE-R

sr20boston

R&R is a stone's throw from my house. It's good to know there is a place locally that does good work.

I brought a flywheel to Klaus Euromotive in Derry last year. They had it resurfaced and replaced the sheared off dowel pins for like $25. Good service and great price. They are an Audi/Porsche tuner.

Mike

Sorry I changed the link try this:
http://www.sr20.net/v/mikeG/DET/?

Looks good btw.

Mike

Mike

Hey Leon. Regarding your pm I think you should take a picture of the numbers on your block and then take a picture of the numbers on your crank and post them here and I'll try to explain them a bit more for you.

You should only have 4 numbers on the crank for the rod bearing journals. They should be below the top 5 numbers that designate the main bearing grades on the crank.

Also if you can take a picture of the 5 numbers on the block located here: (these are what the main bearing journal grade numbers are for the block.)


Mike

Edit: About the oil feed holes in the DE bearings. That is fine they come like that

93specv

k mike buddy......and anyone else that is paying attention. first off i'd like to say that the haynes manual is somewhat helpful, but it's pictures are not all accurate!

k then.... #'s on the block i found:

sr20 203505A
53j ofcourse
2 next to each cylinder
a randon 4
and in the box you circle above was:
either J22322
.............A 0
.....or U22322
.............A 0

then on the crank was:

12120 )
1111 )---this was printed on one of the weights just as you see
08190 )

.52-0 )
60J40 )>------this was etched on the side seperately from each other

93specv

yes sir. they are pretty busy though. i guess they calm down a bit this time of year....... so they say.

93specv

also mike, when they cleaned your block did the exterior come back as dirty as mine? did they replace the freeze plugs and whatnots? it's nothing i cant handle myself, i was just expecting a shiney block inside "and" out.

Mike

Cool. The letter on the block next to the 5 numbers doesn’t matter. Either j or u.. Mine was an f iirc.

This is how it would go:
Block 22322
crank 12120
-------------------------------------
Main bearing grades 34442

Now to get the rod bearing grades all you need to do is use the numbers on the crank below the main bearing numbers. The rods are almost always grade 0 I haven't heard of anyone say they have see rods graded otherwise. Mine are all grad 0.

To find the rod bearing grade look on the rod end cap on the opposite side that shows the cylinder number and very lightly etched on the rod you should a number 0.

So for the rod bearings.
Rods 0000
crank 1111
----------------------------------
Rod bearing grades 1111

That is all there is to getting the grades. I'd add a grade to all of them (the total grade numbers) to account for wear and make sure to measure, measure, measure

Mine was the same Leon. They didn't touch the freeze plugs on it but they did take out the oil galley plugs and clean inside the galleys in the motor.

I was thinking about cleaning the exterior of the block like Chris but I'm just to lazy

Mike

93specv

thanx mike for all your help so far!!!

turco

I recently bought a motor. After stripping it apart I found two spun rod bearings. One seriously welded itself to the crank, while the second one isnt AS bad. Anyone know if a machine shop can repiar it, or does anyone have any 8cw cranks lying around?

__________________
2000 Black Sentra SE w/aPP

ssnh

93specv

im sure a machine shop shop could "fix" it. r+r is real busy though. thier phone number is listed earlier in this thread on page one. give em a call and see.

turco

Anyone have any idea what it would cost to get the crank turned? I think i am also going to have the block and head dipped if I can find a valve spring compressor

Mike

Hey Turco. If I were you I would just buy this crank.
http://www.sr20forum.com/mechanical-oem-part-outs/171056-crank-cams-92-sr20.html

Its a good deal and it will be a hell of alot easier than turning a crank and finding bearings to fit it and all that jaz.

Just my $.02

Mike

turco

Yes and I would rather have a new one. I sent him a pm thanks for the link

Mike, should I devalve a head before sending it in to get cleaned? or is that something they do?

turco

New crank bought from McCoy Now i need to decide on pistons.

Mike

Nice! That is a nice looking crank. I would have scoffed it up if I still needed one.

btw yes you need to give them a bare head. They can do it but they will charge for it $$$.

Edit: What ever you do don't have them bead the head.. long story short the beading material will get in the oil galleys and it will be bad.

Oh and your looking for pistons? na or turbo? I have a set of turbo ones..
http://www.sr20forum.com/showthread....highlight=mike

Mike