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best headers available today for a 1995 Nissan 200sx se-r 2.0
Just wanted to know if there is any headers I can get a hold of for.my car and who would be the best to go to, I've tried looking for info but am so limited on it. I've seen m2 performance,obx, and option headers... Can anyone recommend.me.anything?
The new member area isn't really where I would have posted this question, but I've been researching this also. Regarding ebay sellers I've read that all of the cheap ones are basically the same in quality. My only question is whether the OBX ones are of better quality as they cost $222 shipped, instead of the others that range from $130 - $140 shipped.
The OBX seller states that theirs have a 2.25" outlet and are made from 16 gauge steel. Can anyone confirm that these are a bit heavier and better built? It's hard to compare them as the other sellers don't list what gauge steel theirs are made from.
ezplus2003 has theirs listed at 2.25" as well. It is part number TP-190.
kospeed and the other sellers' headers have the 2.5" outlets.
I would recommend picking one that matches it's outlet diameter with what you have for the rest of your exhaust system. I have a 2.25" VRS cat back system so I want to go with a 2.25" header. I'm willing to go the $222 from OBX, but I'd like to hear from someone that can confirm they are built a bit better and will be more durable. Anyone?
'91 SE-R [MF class rallycross car and
SR mpg record holder @ 76.90]
I cannot comment on the OBX header being better than the rest....although I am skeptical.
I just bought one of the cheaper versions and there were minor fitment issues. This is to be expected when buying aftermarket parts. Although I had no issues when SSAC was building these things.
We had to ream out some of the stud holes to get the primaries to slip onto the head and also (as anticipated) the EGR bung was not at the correct angle compared to stock. We had to unbolt the EGR tube from the EGR, then thread the end into the header, then bend the tube to reattach it to the EGR. Of course this is a non-issue if you are removing the EGR system.
Also the outlet size doesn't necessarily have to match the rest of your exhaust system. You will still be bolting up to the catalytic converter (unless you delete it) which is 2.5" in/out. In general from experience and reading others reports 2.25" will give you a bump in the low and mid-end (good for daily driving) and 2.5" is for getting max gains in the high-end.
Thanks Nitelife. I went with yet another seller of the cheaper ones [always-bargains] for $134 shipped. I also ordered the copper gaskets for it through Summit. I can tweak it a bit here and there as needed. I've gotten used to dealing with the aftermarket "fit" over the years.
I knew going in, that these inexpensive headers might need some tweaking to work properly. I accepted that possibilty and will now report on the one I bought off of ebay. I paid $89.99 plus $45 shipping. It is model number TP-190. The seller said that it had a 2.25" outlet but it is actually 2.5" I'm OK with that. I am very impessed with the fit regarding how tightly it tucks up under the oil pan. That's very imprtant to me as I rallycross my car.
The only problem I have is that the three bolt flange between the primary and down pipe is very badly warped, presumably from the heat of welding. So even with a SCE 9400 copper collector gasket fully torqued, there is an open gap on one side. It's that bad.
I will try to sand both upper and lower flanges flat tomorrow on a large belt sander. The top flange to the head was fine. I know some people have said that they had to elongate the holes in theirs, but mine went right on. It's nice working on the car while the lower radiator support is out.
It took a lot of effort, but I was able to get my warped header flange flat today. It took a combination of grinding down the high spots with a disc grinder and then finishing it on a belt sander. I had to do both the primary and down pipe ends of this flange.
The only other complaint I had with the header is that one of the primary collector ports was quite a bit off center, as seen in this picture.
This is the other side of that same port. You can see that the exhaust gasses would have met a sharp edge from the flange/pipe mismatch. I ground a 45 deg. chamfer into the edge for a smoother transition with a carbide bit in a die grinder to blend it all in. In all I spent about 2 hours of labor to make this header right. In hindsight, I think I would have been happier if I spent the extra money and went with the [smaller primary and secondary ] OBX header, especially since my engine is completely stock.
Thank you for contacting us~I do apologize that we are just a retail seller on eBay.All this item are get it thru our local supplier which means this item is a replica of an aftermarket item only.We been sold around hundred of it, but we do not have any complains about the holes issues yet.however, we do offer 60 days warranty.Therefore, if this item does not met your satisfaction, we will be more then glad to have this item return back to us, and that will NOT be an issue.If you run into any issue, I will glad to assist you here.Please let us know if you have further questions
^This is the reply from the eBay message I recieved.
^Check out the new price. O_o.(at the time $9,144.00) I sent the seller a message saying I think you made a type-o, but he said the price is not a type-o because it is the last one they will have for a while. O_x.
Last edited by MR-4Door-SR20DET; 04-19-2013 at 11:01 AM.
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