A community of enthusiasts dedicated to Nissan's SR20DE/SR20VE/SR20DET engines.
Start here: forum search. Be sure to search on what you're looking for before posting a new thread.
You are currently browsing the forum as a guest. In order to access special features, the image gallery, and post you will need to be a registered member. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact the administrator.
Do think I could get away with it with a zex wet kit? It will only be putting down 80 to the wheels. Or should I just wait and get my fuel pump. (I am one of those cheap sr20 guys) Two kids and a mortgage are killing me..
__________________
Old set-up: 91 se-r sr20de+T 13.04@110mph w/ a t25 and s3's
New set-up: 91 se-r gti-r sr20det w/ a gt28r( gt2871r coming in FEB...),gti-r manifold, MSD 72lb inj., N62 maf, Turbo XS RBV-25 bov, Calum ecu(TUNED BY STEVE), Hallman pro rx mbc(set @ 18psi), Greddy tt, B&M ss, Greddy FMIC, AEM wideband, Autometer gauges, AGX's on Road magnets, etc..
why spend over a grand on a zex wet kit when you can get a wet kit from dyno tune nitrous for $400? then you have all that money left over for fuel upgrades.
__________________
Car and Driver predicted the future accurately when they wrote that "poems will be written about this engine [and] ballads will be sung." <talking about the FWD sr20.
why spend over a grand on a zex wet kit when you can get a wet kit from dyno tune nitrous for $400? then you have all that money left over for fuel upgrades.
1000??? I spent 450 for a brand new complete wet kit. I have never seen a zex kit for 1000 bucks.
Don't do it, walbro pumps are like $80-100 used, price for a used SR20 is $400-600. 100 shot requires more fuel than the stock pump can provide.
Yeah, I figured that, but thought I'd ask anyway. I'll just stick with my 75 shot till the pump upgrade. I will be going this week and spraying the 75 shot to finally see what she can do with full bolt-on's and a 75 shot. I am hoping for some high 13's....
if you want your car to idle right and run like stock when off the bottle then yes.
Eh? Have you ever used a Zex wet kit? It will Idle just like stock when hes not using the bottle.
The FPR is also kinda pointless on a simple zex kit Dry or wet. If you want to up the FP while spraying on a dry kit just put a bigger fuel pill in. For my 55shot NItrous pill I ran a 65shot fuel pill. With a wet kit its the same thing except you dont put a bigger pill in to up the fuel pressure. You put a bigger fuel pill in the nozzle itself and you just get more fuel...The Walbro is going to up the fuel pressure a bit also anyway
And you can get a Walbro for $100 shipped or less brand new. They arent exspensive...
__________________ 1993 Nissan NX2000 w/ 1998 SR20DET Avenir motor w/ so many mods it would be stupid to list them all and more coming!!!!!
Last edited by Johnny wangwang : 05-22-2007 at 08:45 PM.
You will only need the walbro fuel pump no fpr.You will only need a fpr to raise the fuel pressure so you won't run lean if you were to run a dry shot and the bad thing is that you will be running rich while running all motor.When you run a wet shot the fuel seloniod will add the extra fuel that the engine needs and you won't be needeing a fpr.Also a good tip,when you install your kit install the fogger as far as possible so the nos could be mixed with the fuel evenly so you don't risk of running lean on the piston thats next to the throttle body.Thats why people say to run a direct port if your going to run a 100shot.But you will be fine if you install the fogger as far as possible.
Last edited by sr20venosfreak : 05-22-2007 at 11:40 PM.
OK this has nothing to do with the topic. But why would anybody need an AFPR for a dry kit? The kit itself is designed to be its own adjustable FPR...you want more FP then just up the pill. Leave Adjustable FPR's for Turbos.
OK this has nothing to do with the topic. But why would anybody need an AFPR for a dry kit? The kit itself is designed to be its own adjustable FPR...you want more FP then just up the pill. Leave Adjustable FPR's for Turbos.
Man you don't need the AFPR only for boost. It works wonders on a nitrous car. Hell even an NA car.
Now if he is going to use a Walboro which I will say he should when running anything above a 75 shot IMHO he will need a AFPR. The Walboro will shoot the fuel pressure through the roof and he will have to regulate the FP accordingly.
Also why not take precautions when using a dry kit? What if somthing goes wrong with the kit? When usinga dry set up you want to start off rich then lean the car out (Dyno tuned reccomended) until you get your AFR dead on.
I will also say that when running a big shot you may want to go wet. Dry shots are less forgiving. If you really want to go dry then I would say get the proper fuel management for the car and run some bigger injectors.
IMHO the only dry set up worth while is the JWT 100 shot set up. It worked flat out amazing for me. I know alot of others will say different but, when tuned out right my car was far from slow.
__________________ -Rob- Get ready for a big SE-Rprise
I was just explaning why you don't need a afpr if your going to use a wet kit.Since you asked before.I am not familier with the dry kit your talking about.But on any other dry kit's you will need a afpr to up the fuel pressure so you don't run lean when you spray.Or you will have to send the ecu to JWT and have them do a nos program so when you spray the nos program will change fuel maps for your nitrious shot.Another tip retard your time aliitle.
Last edited by sr20venosfreak : 05-23-2007 at 03:43 PM.
The AFPR is for the Walbro its self though. Theres not really any need for the AFPR with nitrous unless you have the Walbro and you run the car N/A also. Even then people turn the Fuel pressure down mostly. N/a the Adjustable Fuel pressure is good. But most people lower the fuel pressure there also because the car is tuned to run rich stock and the Walbro is making it run even richer. With boost its a neccesity also. But with nitrous...a dry kit and an AFPR just makes things complicated for no reason IMHO unless the car is a dedicated track car thats only going to be used on nitrous and never driven. Then I can see the AFPR being used to squeaze the most Hp out of the car. But for a regualr dry kit IMHO the AFPR isnt going to do anything that a bigger fuel pill wouldnt do. Up the FP to much and your losing HP. Lower it at all and you basically might as well just be putting in a smaller fuel pill.
Either way I cant really see the AFPR being any help on a dry kit without it being a dedicated track car.
On a wet kit I can see it helping a little since both the Fuel system AND the Nozzle are using the fuel pressure of the pump. But ive honestly went through it in my head and the only way that it would help is maybe by helping add less fuel. But even then all you have to do is put in a bigger or smaller fuel pill and you have the same results. *Edit* Actually It could help on a wet kit if the FP going to the Nozzle is taken before the FPR. Then you could adjust the FP on the rail without it adjusting the FP going to the nozzle
I think a AFPR on a nitrous car would just make things difficult. Once you have the FP where you want it for the nitrous. What happens to your performance N/A? Its kind of like a trade off unless your going to adjust the FP everytime you spray and then Readjust it everytime your running NA
Last edited by Johnny wangwang : 05-24-2007 at 01:17 AM.
Yea I dont think some people realize that the "ZEX" wet kit keeps a constant fuel-NOS ratio and you dont need a AFPR.Although im running a walbro and AFPR and my car is running GREAT,with a zex wet kit.The "zex" kit is designed to lower the amount of NOS if the amount of fuel going to it is lowered,kind of like a safety device.
you will still want the afpr trust me the car will run rich with the 255 pump when off the bottle.....as for ppl not needing a afpr thats one of the first mods you should do to your car it will save your a$$.
as for the zex kit... I know how they work the fpr is not for the n2o its to control the fp with the high flow pump.
you will still want the afpr trust me the car will run rich with the 255 pump when off the bottle.....as for ppl not needing a afpr thats one of the first mods you should do to your car it will save your a$$.
as for the zex kit... I know how they work the fpr is not for the n2o its to control the fp with the high flow pump.
Any recommendations on a afpr? I know nismo, but there is no gauge so I can't see what my pressure is at. Any others??
Also how do I know what psi to have when spraying 100,125, etc....??? And what is the stock pressure?
I always run the nismo fpr with and cheapo gauge from any local parts store I have seen gauges as cheap as $15 with the t fitting...set your stock fp around 36-38 psi make sure when it goes static it jumps up.
) Two kids and a mortgage are killing me..
I spent 450 for a brand new complete wet kit. I have never seen a zex kit for 1000 bucks.
