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I brought my bracket to someone I know to have them weld it up to make sure the weld has enough penetration. We also swapped the bushing on the end to one from a link bar which is used on air ride or lifted vehicles. The bushing is also replaceable now if needed compared to the other one.
I also know some people that work at a powder coating facility so i'm going to try and sneak this part as well as some other brackets on the line.
The rear transmission mount hit a bit so I notched out part of the body.
I use cardboard to make templates for what I need to cut out of metal.
I need to do a little more grinding on it yet but here it is all filled in.
Here is the last mount I had to make.
I don't know how many of you noticed the big gap between the sub frame and the body it self. Anyways I decided to make the tunnel bigger so the sub frame now goes up to the body.
I tacked a square bar connecting the two ends so the sub frame keeps it shape after I hack the top off.
Here is the new shape of the sub frame.
I made all my templates and then cut them out of 3/16 thick metal and welded them in place.
Tomorrow I will finish grinding my welds on the sub frame and box it in rest of the way. I also have an idea for moving my steering rack so I'll try that tomorrow. Friday I will more then likely paint the engine bay as well as my brackets and replace all the gaskets on the engine.
New Update
You will also need to notch out the passenger side to allow clearance for the power steering pump.
in case you were not aware:
that's an RB model (built oct '90), so the gearbox you have there will be the close-ratio version
the front diff will also probably be an lsd (rather than the open type that the RA models have as standard)
60mph in 5th is ~3600rpm (compared to ~3000rpm for the RA)
top speed is ~120mph (compared to ~150mph for the RA)
great for twisty mountain roads and motorkhanas, but annoying on the highway
ps. nice work on the conversion thus far!
be interesting to hear the handling characteristics when it's done...
When are you moving closer to GA so we can do my car next?
lol, probably never. I might try making a awd conversion kit to sell depending on how well things go when I get it finished and test everything to see how well it works.
in case you were not aware:
that's an RB model (built oct '90), so the gearbox you have there will be the close-ratio version
the front diff will also probably be an lsd (rather than the open type that the RA models have as standard)
60mph in 5th is ~3600rpm (compared to ~3000rpm for the RA)
top speed is ~120mph (compared to ~150mph for the RA)
great for twisty mountain roads and motorkhanas, but annoying on the highway
ps. nice work on the conversion thus far!
be interesting to hear the handling characteristics when it's done...
hmm, so the gear ratios are different between the two trannies. I might need to pick up a different transmission then. I have 2 rear diffs from the 91-up Gti-r so i'll have to see if the diffs are compatible with that transmission.
The sub frame took longer then I thought it would to finish so that’s all I have for updates today. In case any of you were wondering I use a grinder with a cut off wheel to cut my pieces out.
Here is the last 3 pieces tacked in place after I sprayed 3M Rubberized under coating on the inside to help prevent it from rusting.
I always cut my pieces a bit big as shown below that way I can use a grinder to grind it down to the size of what its being welded to.
Just a picture of some of the welds.
All the welds are ground down.
After I weld the steering rack brackets on then I will be spraying it with 3M Rubberized under coating.
This is about as high as you can go with out the steering rack binding up. At this height it will also be about 1 1/4" above the awd transmission.
You will need to modify all your power steering lines
The plastic cover on the inside has to be modified in order for you to get it at this angle.
Now I have to adjust the tie rods out so they will reach the control arms. I'm not sure how many threads they will be held on by at the moment so I might have to make some longer tie rods.
It was easier for me by trimming the original steering rack brackets way down then making my pieces to connect it to the sub frame.
I still need to finish it tomorrow but that’s how it will look.
Now here is a cheap way to improve your engine mounts. Go and purchase a tube of PL Polyurethane Window, Door and Siding caulk ($5.90 a tube).
What you do is clean your motor mount and fill it in with this caulk. The wax paper is so you have something to set it on that will come off easily.
After you fill it in make sure to use something to smooth it out with and then let it dry until it is no longer tacky. The caulk will bond with your original mount making it a lot more solid. It won't look as nice as buying polyurethane mounts but its a lot cheaper and does the same thing.
a couple questions for ya
1: is it safe to assume you will not install the cross member due to, well it wont be doing anything? personally i feel it helps protect the motor from crappy road conditions, ie nasty pot holes
2:have you checked the compatibility of the speed sensor?
3:are you planning a fuel cell or modifying the fuel tank?
4:are you planning a new exhaust setup?
5:was the modification you did on the drive side for the tranny to clear necessary for fitment purposes or would small amout of modification be possible?
6: were you able to get away with the stock tie rods or are you getting longerones.
7: since you mounted the steering rack higher, have you checked to see if the ball joint on the tierod will will fit properly due the the new angle or will the reciever on the hub be modified, or tie rods be modified?
8: is the control arm stabilizer gonna fit properly?
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87mm bore, stock cams, 444 inj, chemical intercooler, Greddy t517z turbo, cp pistons, eagle rods, nearly done with car
a couple questions for ya
1: is it safe to assume you will not install the cross member due to, well it wont be doing anything? personally i feel it helps protect the motor from crappy road conditions, ie nasty pot holes
2:have you checked the compatibility of the speed sensor?
3:are you planning a fuel cell or modifying the fuel tank?
4:are you planning a new exhaust setup?
5:was the modification you did on the drive side for the tranny to clear necessary for fitment purposes or would small amout of modification be possible?
6: were you able to get away with the stock tie rods or are you getting longerones.
7: since you mounted the steering rack higher, have you checked to see if the ball joint on the tierod will will fit properly due the the new angle or will the reciever on the hub be modified, or tie rods be modified?
8: is the control arm stabilizer gonna fit properly?
Well I can answer some of your questions now and the others will be answered later.
1. There is one section of the upper oil pan on the Gti-r engine which does sit lower then the sr20de and has to be shaved in order to use a dog bone. With the dog bone removed you will technically have more clearance underneath. Honestly thou I never bottomed out my dog bone/cross member before and my car sits extremely low. You have to drive smart and avoid big pot holes or bumps.
2. The speed sensor on the awd transmission is electrical compared to the manual speed sensor with was on my fwd transmission. That is one of the reasons I decided to run the Gti-r dash harness and gauge cluster so everything will plug right in and work properly.
3. I'm planning on going with a 8 gallon fuel cell but I won't exactly know what size for sure until after I see what I have for room in back. I don't want the fuel cell in the car for safety reason so I will more then likely mount it underneath behind or in front of the rear sub frame. I will also have to make some extra bracing and such incase someone rear ends me if the fuel cell is behind.
4. I will more then likely use the Gti-r down pipe and then fab up my exhaust rest of the way back. Since the drive shaft will basically be in the exhaust tunnel I will have to make a separate tunnel for the exhaust or run it underneath or along the drive shaft.
5. If you are referring to the notch I did in the body on the driver side rear that was so I could use the stock Gti-r rear transmission mount. You could also trim down the mount bracket it self if you prefer doing it that way.
6. I will be extending the tie rods for safety reasons by welding some nuts on to the tie rod it self that have the same thread pattern (m12 1.25 pitch).
7. I will let you know within the week but as of right now I’m not to worried about it.
8. It will need to be modified. I don't have a Gti-r one but I would assume it would work perfect.
you know what man i think you can put a kit together for this build. ive gone over your thread 3 times now and alot of what you fabbed up is not very complicated. if i could suggest something for you i say draw up blue prints for the parts you fabbed up and an instruction manual and you got yourself a kit. oh yeah and i really think that running the exhaust with the driveshaft is the most rational way about it. because if you look at the underside of a pulsar it has it as such but it only seems that the channel on the pulsar is a little wider but i think you can do it. great build man
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87mm bore, stock cams, 444 inj, chemical intercooler, Greddy t517z turbo, cp pistons, eagle rods, nearly done with car
you know what man i think you can put a kit together for this build. ive gone over your thread 3 times now and alot of what you fabbed up is not very complicated. if i could suggest something for you i say draw up blue prints for the parts you fabbed up and an instruction manual and you got yourself a kit. oh yeah and i really think that running the exhaust with the driveshaft is the most rational way about it. because if you look at the underside of a pulsar it has it as such but it only seems that the channel on the pulsar is a little wider but i think you can do it. great build man
Ya i'm sure i'll be able to make the exhaust fit by the drive shaft and it wouldn't be that hard to widen the tunnel anyways if need be. I also plan on making blue prints once I become a bit more familiar with the cad program as well as jigs for the parts. In august I begin most of my metal fab/welding classes at the local technical college so it will probably be next winter when I do that.
Just an idea for the exhuast. you could run smaller exhaust so it will fit next to the driveshaft in the tunnel without modifying the tunnel. Then use a boost activated cut out after the dp for high boost or when the 2" isnt gonna cut it.
A kit would be sweet. I will have to see how it comes out. If i like the way yours drives i may do the same.
I was gonna finally get out and get my manifold and some other things done on the car, but this snow storm sucks. I wish my shop was at my house.
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93 electric blue nx2000 with lots o mods.
91 g20 5spd dd 203k still going strong.
99 maxima se 5spd: blizzaks,hid's I/H/E
06 suzuki ltz 400 w/mods cardomain.com/id/insaneimport2000
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