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do u think a spec stage 2+ will hold up.. i got the 3+ and a gti-r @ 12psi.. i got a boost controller.. turned it up to 18psi for sh*ts and giggles on one run... and i felt the clutch slipping.. ( never turned it back up that high again, was just proving a point when i did )
It should hold since i'm not going to be putting out big hp numbers for a while.
Clutch is now installed but was a pain to do. None of the holes really wanted to line up.
Release bearing installed and greased up.
Transmission is back on
Engine/transmission installed again
The ECU that came with my engine had a switch coming out of it. When opened up there was a board that was designed by Intec Racing Technology. I haven't been able to find any information on Intec Racing Technology to see what has been modified on the ECU yet. If any one has contact information for them let me know.
in case you were not aware:
that's an RB model (built oct '90), so the gearbox you have there will be the close-ratio version
the front diff will also probably be an lsd (rather than the open type that the RA models have as standard)
60mph in 5th is ~3600rpm (compared to ~3000rpm for the RA)
top speed is ~120mph (compared to ~150mph for the RA)
great for twisty mountain roads and motorkhanas, but annoying on the highway
ps. nice work on the conversion thus far!
be interesting to hear the handling characteristics when it's done...
not 100% sure but i think the tranny code has to have a V at the end for VLSD not A. A is for OPEN.
This is the coolest write up! Im definetly a subscriber- 400 bucks shipped for the entire GTIR rear end? thats not bad- considering you get everything- awesome work dude i cant wait to see the finished product! Awesome car!
I was missing the shifter stabilizer bar bracket on the transmission so I had someone from Canada ship me one. This is the Gti-r shifter and as you can see it works perfect.
In order to get the shifter stabilizer bar on the bracket you have to modify part of the tunnel. If you look at the floor with the carpet out you can see it goes into the tunnel more where you need to cut. After you cut it just weld a new piece in so it continues at the same gap as earlier in the tunnel. I didn't take a before picture but if you look at it you will understand what I mean.
I bolted up the drive shaft so I can figure out were the rear sub frame needs to be mounted. The support brackets for the drive shaft are not mounted yet.
I have a Favor to ask, If you have measured the subframe assembly, and if you know the measurements, and if the rearend is centered in the subframe. Also if the axles are the same length, and if the lower control arms are the same length ? Kinda like I have illustrated in your pic, to me in the Pic it appears centered
Im contemplating, the use of the GTiR rearend and axles, but mounting them in a Miata Rear Subframe, because I have a B14 Chassis, and i think a double wish bone, or upper lower control arm setup will be easier to incorperate in my chassis.
The reason i dont wanta just use the Miata rearend is Its Ring&Pinion is 4.1 as to where the GTiR is 4.125, Theres 25 thousanths difference
And keep up the Good work, also will that drive line tuck up in the tunnel further or is that were it is to mount, just trying to figure where your gonna run your exhaust
Last edited by Chris_200SX_SER; 03-20-2009 at 05:00 AM.
Reason: added more info
I have a Favor to ask, If you have measured the subframe assembly, and if you know the measurements, and if the rearend is centered in the subframe. Also if the axles are the same length, and if the lower control arms are the same length ? Kinda like I have illustrated in your pic, to me in the Pic it appears centered
Im contemplating, the use of the GTiR rearend and axles, but mounting them in a Miata Rear Subframe, because I have a B14 Chassis, and i think a double wish bone, or upper lower control arm setup will be easier to incorperate in my chassis.
The reason i dont wanta just use the Miata rearend is Its Ring&Pinion is 4.1 as to where the GTiR is 4.125, Theres 25 thousanths difference
And keep up the Good work, also will that drive line tuck up in the tunnel further or is that were it is to mount, just trying to figure where your gonna run your exhaust
I'll get those measurements for you as soon as I take my sub frame back out from under the car.
Replaced valve cover gasket. All the internals are stock and they appear to be in good shape.
You will need to use a Gti-r down pipe or custom make one to clear the drive shaft.
The down pipe comes fairly close to the sub frame. Any bigger size then stock and you will have to modify the sub frame for clearance.
I centered and leveled my drive shaft then tacked it to the body so I could drill my holes for mounting.
The mounting brackets on the drive shaft rotate so I cut out a section of the passenger floor to allow it to sit up high enough.
Now that the drive shaft is good to go you can see where the sub frame needs to be mounted. Once I widen the frame rails I will be able to drill my holes and bolt it in place.
Here is another reason to purchase a Gti-r shift linkage for the conversion. It sits much higher up underneath which allows clearance for the drive shaft.
Worked on filling in the holes I cut in the floor for the drive shaft. Made my box, welded it in place then drilled my hole. After you drill your hole you can put the bolt in and finger tighten the drive shaft up. Once its finger tight you can weld it in place. This way the bolt will be the correct way when its bolted in place.
Had to modify the passenger seat bracket a bit. You can still get all 3 bolts in but the 3rd one won't really do a lot anymore.
On the driver side you just have to drill your hole and then get it down to bare metal so you can weld the bolt in place.
I picked up some 3M seam sealer to go over top of all my welds inside the car with.
I’ll have to try to kick it up a couple notches and get a lot more done in a day. Doesn’t seem like I’ve accomplished much lately.
Last edited by BusinessMan_24; 03-24-2009 at 03:36 AM.
Just a little bit of a teaser picture. Tag that is on my rear diff (Viscous LSD).
Finished making my drive shaft brackets and now I just need to go over the welds with seam sealer.
I ended up returning the tube of seam sealer I picked up since on the back it said not to use inside a vehicle. Instead I purchased this brush on seam sealer product from 3m which I believe is more of a polyurethane base and is meant for use on the inside of vehicles.
Here is the new piece for the tunnel which allows clearance for the shift linkage. I bent the 16g metal to get the general shape needed and then tacked it in one spot. After the first tack I slowly worked my way around pounding it to the shape I needed and tacking some more. I ran out of gas for my welded today so I have to finish it tomorrow.
The hole you see here is where the body was seam sealed from factory. It was rusted out so I made the hole big enough to eliminate the rust and now I can replace the chunk.
My brother purchased a Kobalt laser level today and the thing works great.
We are using it to help center the rear sub frame.
We make are marks on the concrete and then use a chalk line to connect the marks.
This chalk line lines up with the pinch weld.
Last edited by BusinessMan_24; 03-26-2009 at 02:26 AM.
Sprayed the bare metal in the car with primer and then went over it with seam sealer. The brush on seam sealer is kind of a pain to use since it doesn't like to spread that well. I'll pick up a tube of it and let you know if its easier to use.
The string going from the front to rear is the center of the car.
The measurements on the car it self for the rear are done so now I just have to do some measuring on the sub frame tomorrow and start making my brackets.
RCI 12 gallon fuel cell arrived today. I'm going to see if I can make the stock NX fuel pump/sender unit mount in it. I'll be checking on prices next week to have someone weld on it since its aluminum. Incase anyone was wondering it weighs 10lbs 14.3oz.
Some of my parts I ordered arrived today. I ordered up a oem Gti-r oil pump and here is the application chart on the back of the box. Filter will work for U.S.A/Canada Sentra sr20de 07/90-07/93 (canada) 08/90-(U.S.A.) or Infiniti G20 sr20de 07/90-(all).
I have a Favor to ask, If you have measured the subframe assembly, and if you know the measurements, and if the rearend is centered in the subframe. Also if the axles are the same length, and if the lower control arms are the same length ? Kinda like I have illustrated in your pic, to me in the Pic it appears centered
Im contemplating, the use of the GTiR rearend and axles, but mounting them in a Miata Rear Subframe, because I have a B14 Chassis, and i think a double wish bone, or upper lower control arm setup will be easier to incorperate in my chassis.
The reason i dont wanta just use the Miata rearend is Its Ring&Pinion is 4.1 as to where the GTiR is 4.125, Theres 25 thousanths difference
And keep up the Good work, also will that drive line tuck up in the tunnel further or is that were it is to mount, just trying to figure where your gonna run your exhaust
Here are the measurements you wanted. They could be around a 1/32nd off. The measurement from the diff to the hub could be off by as much as a 1/8. Also I measured from the far end of the inside of the mounting holes.
I did another layer of seam sealer to make sure everything is sealed.
Once it dried I sprayed over it with 3m Rubberized undercoating.
Now I started making my brackets for the rear. The driver side rail is straight but on the passenger side it curves. For the passenger side I cut a piece 8" long and then made 3 relief cuts in it to allow me to bend it.
Next I used a pry bar to bend it to the shape I wanted. Bend it a bit then check it with the frame rail and continue until it matches up.
Once I had the curve I wanted I then filled in what I could with the welder.
For the bigger gaps I cut out a piece to weld in place. I used a magnet to hold it in place on the inside while I tacked it in place.
Now you just run a bead down each side then straight down the middle to raise it to the appropriate height.
Just grind down the welds and your good to go now.
truly amazing i have been following this thread since it has started and finally one to keep reading on. glad you didnt give up and going this far i know that is not an option. i cannot wait to see the final project. this is actually turning into basically a how to. congrats on the progress. keep us updated on everything!!
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