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Kudos on your brackets for the rear. Keep up the good work
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Big thanks to paNX2K&SE-R for making the swap happen. Another big thanks to GreekPower for staying up late with me multiple nights trying to figure wiring, installing parts,and with finding parts, hook ups, you name it. Probably wouldn't have done the swap at the time I did it if it wasn't for him. Also thanks to everyone else that helped, forum members, family, and friends.
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1991 xe..dead(boneyard)
1994 e..dead(parted out)
1993 nx2k..dead(road kill hit by a f150)(parted out)
91 sentra E HIEPDTO^UFSW..dead
2007 hyundai accent DD
1987 pulsar se AWD-T 1.6 4wd non turbo in the future
1987 sentra wagon(4WD) soon to be the DD!! and future gtir motor/tranny swap awd-t FTW www.lubedealer.com/dkinney
for all your AMSOIL Synthetic Oils and Filters
I don't think that sub frame will work as well as a gti-r for a b13 chasis but I guess as long as the wheel base and the gear ratios are the same it won't matter. Regardless you would have to make mounting points.
The Gti-r clutch pedal assembly does bolt right up but you have to modify it so the pedal it self is in the right spot. Here are the weights for the NX and Gti-r parts.
-----Pedal Assembly----------Cables/engine bay brackets
NX-----3lbs 15oz------------------2lb 0.8oz
Gti-r---2lb 10.2oz-----------------1lb 0.4oz (weight of master cylinder)
NX pedals
Gti-r pedal bolted in place. As you can see there is a much bigger gap now then there was before.
There are numerous ways to go about fixing this issue. One way is you could just leave the NX clutch pedal assembly in and drill a hole for the hydraulic clutch pin to connect to it. You would also need to trim the stock assembly down a bit. Another way is you could just bend the Gti-r bracket the way you want the pedal to be positioned. I decided to go with a third option. What I did was I hacked both pedals off right below the orange rubber stopper. I then welded the NX pedal onto the Gti-r assembly. You will have to play with it a bit in order to get it positioned the way you want.
After I welded it up I grinded it down to try and make it look like a factory piece.
It has some surface rust on it so I cleaned it up and sprayed it with primer. I will be painting it gloss black tomorrow.
The hydraulic clutch master cylinder also bolts right up and clears everything.
Since I tore out all the factory stuff on the firewall I wanted to put something in its place. I'm using boom mat which you can order from your local automotive store.
I was way off when I ordered the mating so it will be a week before I can finish the firewall.
The rear sub frame brackets I was working on yesterday are now tacked in place. I need to pick up some more metal and a hole saw tomorrow so I can finish them and move onto the front rear sub frame brackets.
After lining up the sub frame underneath I sprayed the top of the mounts with white paint that way when I lifted it in place it would leave a mark where I needed to drill my hole.
I used a 1" hole saw and then hit the hole with a grinding bit to enlarge to about 1 1/16.
Round tube (2 5/8 long) which gets welded in to help stiffen the bracket.
Grade 8 bolt I had laying around.
Hand tightened so I could tack the round tube in place.
Now for the front mount you will have to build the rail down to it and then drill your hole.
More parts arrived!!!
Purchased the Oil pump, Belts (non ac), G-spec Crank Pulley, oil pick up from castilano200sx (thanks)
Purchased the 3" Doug’s Headers exhaust cutout from MN_SR20 (thanks)
This is pretty sick... Ive always thought the GTi-R engine and trans could go in pretty easily and the drive shaft go down the exhaust tunnel, but I could never find anyone that tried to line it up themselves. To be honest, that part looks to be real easy.. the rear subframe on the other hand...
Keep up the good work, subscribed.
Oh, and did you look into the GTi-R steering rack? As in where its placed and possibly using it instead of the Sentra's to stop it from having binding issues?
No i haven't looked into the Gti-r steering rack at all. Regardless you would have to do new mounts so it sits up higher but i'm sure if you went with a Gti-r steering column it would help out a bit. It should work the way I have it but i'll do some more tests with it since I'm pulling the engine back out to do the oil pump. If need be I can always shorten mine so no big deal.
wow.... i'm speechless... you are my hero!!!! keep up the awesome work!!!
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2006 mazda 5 wife's whip
92 se-r rust bucket waitning for body work.SOLD
1991 se-r sold....
1995 zx-7r pending trade
1986 s10 xcab parts hauler for sale $600 o/bo pm me for details...
1987 mazda rx7 fc3s 90k original miles, daily for now
He is using a snap on wire feed welder. I am sure nick will post up the specs and a pic of it.
I also am stuck without a garage for now and my shop is like 20min away, it definately makes me less motivated. By the end of summer i will have my garage built even if the nx isnt running by then.
Nick what did you end up bowling tonight? I won the first game then lost the other 2. Your bro kurt bowled a 223 the last one, damn left handed cheaters LOL. Josh was throwing up when i left his house a while ago, he was damn drunk.
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93 electric blue nx2000 with lots o mods.
91 g20 5spd dd 203k still going strong.
99 maxima se 5spd: blizzaks,hid's I/H/E
06 suzuki ltz 400 w/mods cardomain.com/id/insaneimport2000
Definitely nice. I cant wait to have a garage. I am excited to see the rest of the rear. What are you welding with?
I'm using a snap on wire feed welder with 75-25 mixed gas. It can weld up to about 1/4 thick fairly dec but I would prefer a stick welder for anythig thicker.
I've been a bit busy and rethinking some of the rear but there should be updates tomorrow
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