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I decided to work on my fuel cell today since it will probably take a week to get it back from a shop.
Hacked the filler tube down so I can connect my line to it and run it to the inside.
Here is the hose I will be using which needs to be cut down and angled yet. I'm just holding the fuel cell in to let you guys get an idea of what it will look like.
I modified the NX stock fuel pump/sender unit so it fits in the fuel cell. It was almost the same diameter (bit larger) as the hole where the filler neck bolted to the fuel cell. I just used a dremel to trim it so it would fit in the hole and make the extra slots for the bolts.
Here is the factory fuel pump bracket that goes down with in the tank. I will be mounting it in the bottom of the fuel cell to hold the pump in place. You will need to extend your hoses and wiring so the pump will fit the new depth.
Also your fuel gauge will be off unless you modify your floater to be more exact. Now I called JB weld today and asked them if using JB-Weld would work for mounting the plastic piece inside the aluminum tank. They said JB-Weld will hold the plastic to the aluminum and gas will not eat away at it either. So at the moment I will probably do it that way unless I come up with a different idea.
I'm dropping it off at a shop tomorrow to weld on a new filler neck as well as a inlet which will be my vent line. They will also hack off and weld shut the fill, return (with line going down in the tank) & roller over vent fittings that came on the fuel cell.
Where are you taking it to nick? Luke has been welding alum. now for quite a while at beyond redline. Did you ask him how much he could do it for?
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93 electric blue nx2000 with lots o mods.
91 g20 5spd dd 203k still going strong.
99 maxima se 5spd: blizzaks,hid's I/H/E
06 suzuki ltz 400 w/mods cardomain.com/id/insaneimport2000
Where are you taking it to nick? Luke has been welding alum. now for quite a while at beyond redline. Did you ask him how much he could do it for?
I'm going to Complete Radiator Service, I called them today and they said they could do it for me. They usually don't charge much and do a awesome job so I'm swinging by tomorrow after class to show them and get a quote.
Cool i was gonna say check them out as well. They are very good to deal with. I went and got some hose adapters from them for free, and sent them out with the koyo. I bought a csf 2 row radiator from them years ago for my crx, it was reasonably priced.
We should try and see if they can get the csf 2 row nx style copper brass radiator with the correct 1 3/8" inlet and outlet, and how for how much. It seems people on here are having a hard time coming up with the correct one. Everyone ends up getting the one with the smaller inlets and outlets. Which isnt a huge deal but some want the direct bolt in no mods necessary style radiator.
Cool i was gonna say check them out as well. They are very good to deal with. I went and got some hose adapters from them for free, and sent them out with the koyo. I bought a csf 2 row radiator from them years ago for my crx, it was reasonably priced.
We should try and see if they can get the csf 2 row nx style copper brass radiator with the correct 1 3/8" inlet and outlet, and how for how much. It seems people on here are having a hard time coming up with the correct one. Everyone ends up getting the one with the smaller inlets and outlets. Which isnt a huge deal but some want the direct bolt in no mods necessary style radiator.
Alright i'll ask when I go back to pick up my fuel cell and spare Koyo radiator next week sometime.
I had a spare set of tail lights laying around so I decided to give it a shot at tinting them. I used smoke color spray tint for lenses.
Before
After
It turned out all right but I will probably pay someone to redo it since i'm not overal happy with the result. They should looks tits on the car thou in my opinion.
Last edited by BusinessMan_24; 04-17-2009 at 04:20 PM.
My hardware arrived so I bolted in the sub frame and started completely welding the brackets in place. Added two more bars to stiffen up the brace some more after I bolted it down.
I also ran out of tubing so I will need to pick up some tomorrow before I can branch it to the front sub frame bolts.
I won't be reinstalling any of the rear interior so I cleaned up my rear speaker brackets and will be painting them gloss black.
SERIOUS sick build. Completely a fan. I can't wait to see more progress and finally the finished product.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Serban
Making your car RHD would be the MOST pointless mod ever. Go get a job for the Post Office, you can be JDM 8 hrs a day.
'92 NX2000VE - SR16's, BC S&R's, Hot Shot intake w/ pop, SSAC header, 2000 SE disc, ACT HD PP, TWM shifter, FSTB & RSTB, AGX's for now, CSK's+RM's on the way, Prothane MM
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94 Aztec Red Sentra
Gtir Motor Swap with S3M Cams Love Fab Turbo Manifold and a 3in turbo back.
Turbonetics 60-1 With a PWR Water to Air Intercooler
JWT Ecu 72lb program with Z32 MAF
P11 G20T Tranny. Lenso's and M+H slicks
All Rolling on Drag DR20s and Ksports.
Is there a way to do this without cutting up the car? I mean did you do it for the bracing or did it need to be done for clearence?
Are you refering to cutting out the spare tire compartment? You have to remove your stock mounting brackets for the old rear setup in order to make clearance for the complete assembly. If you refer back to page 4 at the bottom you will see why I cut it out. Youmay be able to keep the floor but would probably have to shorten the spare tire compartment anyways. I would say its easier cuting out the floor and just laying a new sheet later.
Last edited by BusinessMan_24; 04-21-2009 at 02:46 PM.
Rear speaker brackets in primer and ready to be painted black.
Front sub frame mount bracket welded to frame rail. I will box it in after I finish welding my tube in place.
Just like the rear here is the metal tube which will go through the front mounts.
Sits in there perfect
I did tacks completely around the tube so I wouldn't burn thru the floor. After I smoothed out the tacks I went back over with a nice bead and smoothed it out.
Here is the plate that will be connect to the rstb and bolted down in place. I have to make my angle pieces yet so the bolt will sit straight when tightened.
Thats one large bolt! lol You really are making this look so much easier than it is... but then again, I guess with all of the room the NX gives you, it is a little easier than it should be.
3/4" grade 8 bolt so it takes a 1 1/8 socket to fit the head. If I make it look easy then maybe others will try it. I can't wait to get the awd finished so I can start tuning and crank the boost to hopefully show some sti's up. Way to many around this area lately.
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