Sigfod

I am the second person to have this issue that I know of. When you redline 3rd gear the ECU will shut the fuel?/spark? off for 1-5 sec. After that period the ECU turns everything back on, and you can go about your business accelerating through 4th. If you don't redline 3rd, and shift into 4th before redline the ECU won't cut fuel?/spark? I have no speed sensor attached to the ECU

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96 SE-R Totaled in '99
2000 Sentra SE w/ GTi-R 2.0T
2006.5 2006.5 GTI DSG 2.0T FOR SALE
2008 BMW 328xi Touring
2008 BMW 328xi Coupe

 

vizi0n

Aaaah ok then, thats a different story I never redline ... but I do get to 6500-7000

Sigfod

Is there any special maintenance required for the GTi-R valve train? Do you have to have the valves adjusted periodically?

vizi0n

The valves are shimmed. So there's no adjustment unless you change the shim

nickr

new shims = $$$$$$$$ parts and labor

Sigfod

Ok good, I know on older cars you had to adjust the valves every so often, glad to hear this isn't the case on the GTi-R

Low612

You can also use the measuring shims to do this as well. Alot of the UK guys cut or punch the shims and place them under the OEM ones to get them within spec. Its alot cheaper and works just as well and is safe. Im gonna do it!

__________________
Larry Low
92 Pulsar GTI-R BLK Gab upper strut brace, Cusco 4pt Front underbrace, front/rear skid plate, stock rear rollbar, full tein coilover suspension , tein camber plates and thats about it for now. Pm me if you need GT Turbos or ano other type.

LAMO IMPORTS
k6 GSXR 750
01 Ducati 996
1999 sentra se-l
1992 Pulsar Gti-r

vizi0n

I'm probably gonna do this as well because my lifters on the cylinder near the cam sprokets are annoying!! just waiting until i get my front mount and new valve cover which will make everything so easier ... did anyone take off the cover on a gti-r sr20? damn, all those hoses are in the way and you have to painfully undo them all ... takes a while

Primera_Dreamer

Man - this is great. I joined SR20forum a while ago just poking around cause I had it in mind to buy me a P11 Primera (USDM G20) and swap an SR20DET in it. I ended up getting a deal on one that had a swap in it already! Only after I bought the car then I figured out that the GTi-R engine was yet another type of DET out there!

Hadn't been on this forum for a lonng time - but this is a most welcomed section.

gti-r200sx

wow this is a great idea i have a 1998 200sx se-r with a 1994 rnn14 gti-r motor swap and io need help i need a throttel postion sensor do you have one or can you get one i will pay what ever it takes my car is totaly done but has a bad tps can you help
gary, aka, gti-r 200sx

Nx2k GTi-R

oh man, let this faq be true.

ok so.. i got a stock gtir set up, complete engine, harness, ecu, and maf - in my 93 NX2000.
daily driver, drove nice, realllly nice. for a long time..
all of a sudden my fuel would always cut out when i was acc., i just drove it slow for a while till it drove me nuts.. ( Still does )
i finally got time and took it back to the shop where i installed it and said this..
when i pin my gas.. any gear.. it will cut out...
so in N we reved it out. -pedal to floor- cuts and revs 1g to 1.5g bogging.. right on those rpms.
so with the hood open the man was looking around.. tighening the maf and holding it in place the car revved out fine.. let go and it was still reving.. so with hopes so high..a test drive had to happen.
it seemed to cure the problem, for the most part..
know it would let me jam first gear, get to second and then cut out.. or going slow to 3rd or 4th, i could drive and pick up as hard as i could but if my pedal hit the floor again. it would bogg out again.

i have no idea wats going on, they seem to think its the maf sensor failing- and im having a HARD time finding one to replace it .
any other set ups possible
sorry for a ramble.

Nx2k GTi-R

i just got this as advise.. what do you think of this as well.

vizi0n

check your maf ground, just to make sure ...

Heres the info from GTIR Modifiers Club forum

MAF Sensor grounding

First, you'll need a digital voltmeter and a small flat blade screwdriver.

The MAF sensor is located just past the air intake. You'll need to pull back the rubber cover to expose three wires. On mine, the outer two were orange, the middle one is white. The middle pin is where we need to get a voltage reading from (with the engine idling). Take the positive lead of the voltmeter and make contact with the middle wire. The negative lead should be pressed to one of the ground connectors on the engine block, near the firewall, right behind the fuel injectors. You might have to look hard to see them, just look for a bolt with several black wires running to it. Took me a while to spot it myself, several vacuum hoses in the way...

The voltage read should be less than 9mv (.009v), if it is above this value, the sensor needs to be reground. To do this, a wire needs to be run from the middle pin to the ground lug. You'll need to remove the connector from the MAF to get a good angle on it. On either side of the connector is a small opening for a small flat blade screwdriver. There is a wire that runs around the connector to hold it in place, you need to pry this wire outwards, and then move the connector back a bit. Do one side, then the other, and it should pop right off. I'd never seen this type of fastener before, once you have it off you'll see what I mean.

You'll want to solder a new wire to the middle pin, make sure you get a good connection. Then, run the other end to the ground lug. If you want to do the job right, you'll want to get a connector from Radio Shack or other electronics store that has a ring that you can crimp the wire to. I don't remember the size of the bolt, so I'm no help there. I just looped my wire around the bolt twice and put it back on. I may go back and fix it up nice some other time.

Once the sensor is reground, the voltage should drop significantly. Mine was at around 11mv, after the fix it went down to less than 2mv.

wkdstnz

Looking for a FSM to sort out what needs to be in and what can go as down here in Georgia, their are know emissions as of yet, so I am getting rid of the farm as per say.

wkdstnz

Next item is building for extreme Hp on a GTiR motor, where to start and who to deal with stateside for the best work? I was veiwing the Tomei site and I want Tomei performance without the stroker kit and without Tomei pricing.......he he.......suggestions are welcome.

vizi0n

http://www.vizi0n.com/pulsar/service_manual/

right there, the 2 volumes

fro20

AAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you.

All I could ever find was excerpts

__________________
RIP 92 S13 fully built with stnadalone and gt30r
91 B13 GTi-R AWD/RHD conversion in progress
07 Impreza Wagon
F/S
VOLK te37 brz 18", a ton of S13 misc parts, OS-giken super lock 2 way LSD fully adj, OS-Giken super single clutch, s13 short block, s13 blktop head

SR20PeteDE

I use usdm oil filters on mine and it works just fine. I use the mobile 1 filters, I can get you a part number later.

mrln_shades

Well this is nice i own a 1992 nissan GTS 4wd with the GTIR engine i have some cams 270 schinder i was wondering if the could be haded to the set up or i would have to re shim the cylinder head i would love all info like hp cam sec piston spec

jonwepa

Already got answers...........(please disregard)

__________________
Old set-up: 91 se-r sr20de+T 13.04@110mph w/ a t25 and s3's
New set-up: 91 se-r gti-r sr20det w/ a gt28r(Something MUCH bigger coming in FEB...),gti-r manifold, MSD 72lb inj., N62 maf, Turbo XS RBV-25 bov, Calum ecu(TUNED BY STEVE), Hallman pro rx mbc, Greddy tt, B&M ss, Greddy FMIC, AEM wideband, Autometer gauges, AGX's on Road magnets, etc.....And it Does run....barely