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Anyone up for helping Jason and I get in the mix? There's a $1K 1991 classic in Novato we just found.......
So, Mike and Tom are our "building buddies" and not Jared--is that right? I mean, if we want to "win," that is. ;-)
Christine
Get a B14. The B14 has many advantages over a B13. At the last WSIR event it had 19-21 seconds worth of advantages over a B13 while running slower tires
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1998 SE-R, ITA Race Car
2002 Toyota Tundra V8 SR5, tow truck, 207 hp, 271 lb-ft
2006 Apex Silver Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution
Get a B14. The B14 has many advantages over a B13. At the last WSIR event it had 19-21 seconds worth of advantages over a B13 while running slower tires
Plus B14's are much more manly.
Also you can't see out of a B13.
Seriously, I think B14's have an advantage at high speed tracks but B13's can do better on tight tehcnical tracks. Its also easier to get a B13 down to minimum weight due to their less manly construction.
Plus B14's are much more manly.
Also you can't see out of a B13.
Seriously, I think B14's have an advantage at high speed tracks but B13's can do better on tight tehcnical tracks. Its also easier to get a B13 down to minimum weight due to their less manly construction.
Mike
Right you are. The B14 trounces the B13 at Big Willow. On Sunday the B14 was 27.8 seconds ahead of the next B13 by the end of the race It could have been even worse for the B13 had the B14 been running 205/50/15 tires. The 225/50/15 slowed the car down.
I still want to see what a race B13 with a good driver does on SOW. I do not think that it will be that different from a B14. I need to get some more practice at BW. All of my hotlapping/racing has been at WSIR/SOW of late. I am confident that the B14 can also be dominant at BW. The Hotlap times I pulled on my last outing their where very close to the record times of the B13.
Yeah, the B14 has the big advantage of you having to use a 20 ton hyrdraulic press to bend key pieces of the suspension to make it work right.
Get an NX- all the advantages of the B14, with all the advantages of the B13.
All I have to say is SCOREBOARD. You saw what happened at WSIR. The fastest B13 was 19 seconds behind the B14.
Bending the beam is a one shot deal. Do it once and you done. You do not even have to get a rear alignment on a B14 for LIFE. The alignment cost on a B14 is $40, for the B13 it is $80. Not only do you go faster, but you save money with a B14
Re: Split: Help for a newbie and which chassis is best
Quote:
Originally Posted by gsr20det
What about every other track, the B14 just can't keep up with the mad speed the B13 can generate everywhere else?!?
Maybe there needs to be a series for B14s on 225s at just WSIR, maybe the "225 Tire Width B14 Willow Springs International Speedway Race Series"?
Good to hear from you Tom I really wanted to run in SR, but did not have enough in the 205/50 tires to do that. After this 205/50 set cords, I am done with 205 tires for good. It is either 225/50/14 or 225/45/15 from now on.
Re: Split: Help for a newbie and which chassis is best
There are so many reasons to get a B14:
1. You start with the freshest cleaneast car possible. I would get a used 1999 B14.
2. You get a 30% stiffer chassis to begin with.
3. You get a more aerodynamic car than the Sentra B13. The NX is fine aerodynamically.
4. B14s tend to have better airflow and do not overheat unless the driver pulls a Monkey
5. Cheap alignments for LIFE. After bending the beam you have zero toe and 1.2-1.4 negative camber for life.
6. The multi-link Beam in the rear keeps the camber rate constant under load.
7. You can fit 225 wide rubber and maybe 235 wide rubber with no problems.
Re: Split: Help for a newbie and which chassis is best
And so many other considerations:
Quote:
Originally Posted by nj1266
1. You start with the freshest cleaneast car possible. I would get a used 1999 B14.
And also the most expensive. KBB for a 1991 SE-R in "Good" condition is about $1700. KBB for a 1999 Sentra SE is about $5000 MORE. NX'es are a little more than an SE-R, but still thousands less than a B14. For $5000 you can get a cage installed and get a Shigspeed or AD suspension and have enough money left over for a race seat and harnesses.
Quote:
Originally Posted by nj1266
2. You get a 30% stiffer chassis to begin with.
That stiffness comes at a price. The SE-R weighs in stock at 2414, according to Edmunds.com. The stiffer B14 weighs in about 200 lbs more.
Quote:
Originally Posted by nj1266
3. You get a more aerodynamic car than the Sentra B13. The NX is fine aerodynamically.
There's no denying that the Classic has the aerodynamics of a Volvo.
Quote:
Originally Posted by nj1266
4. B14s tend to have better airflow and do not overheat unless the driver pulls a Monkey
No Cup car is without overheating problems. Proper race prep has solved this for everyone.
Quote:
Originally Posted by nj1266
5. Cheap alignments for LIFE. After bending the beam you have zero toe and 1.2-1.4 negative camber for life.
Save your money and learn to align the car yourself. You'll better be able to make changes to face changing conditions. Take the car to Darrin once a year for a "check-up".
Quote:
Originally Posted by nj1266
6. The multi-link Beam in the rear keeps the camber rate constant under load.
I believe the independent rear in the B13 increases camber when compressed so you need less static camber.
Quote:
Originally Posted by nj1266
7. You can fit 225 wide rubber and maybe 235 wide rubber with no problems.
Since only 205s are legal in SR, the ability to fit wider tires doesn't really matter unless you're running SRX. In which case you can flare the fenders like Jeff did on his Classic to fit 245s.
If you have a line on a $1000 SE-R, then go for that. The nice thing about the series is that all of the cars are capable of winning. Obviously each driver thinks their chassis is the best. Although, ALL of the SR lap records and all but one SRX lap record are held by B13s, the B14s have taken their share of wins.
How you prepare the car, and most importantly *how you drive*, will determine if your car will be a winner. That's the nice thing about the series... of all the people that have ever raced, about 2/3rds have either won or qualified on pole.
Re: Split: Help for a newbie and which chassis is best
Quote:
Originally Posted by DriveNASA
And so many other considerations:
And also the most expensive. KBB for a 1991 SE-R in "Good" condition is about $1700. KBB for a 1999 Sentra SE is about $5000 MORE. NX'es are a little more than an SE-R, but still thousands less than a B14. For $5000 you can get a cage installed and get a Shigspeed or AD suspension and have enough money left over for a race seat and harnesses.
If you want to get drunk, you do not count the shots If you want to race you get the newest car that you can get. Newer cars are more solid, have less wear and tear, better electrical connections. It is better all around. You get what you pay for.
Quote:
That stiffness comes at a price. The SE-R weighs in stock at 2414, according to Edmunds.com. The stiffer B14 weighs in about 200 lbs more.
My B14 weighed 2455 with driver and 3/4+ tank of gas. And I still have full doors and a rear deck lid. That is $2200 lbs dry. Gutting the doors and the deck lid will net me about 60 lbs in savings, putting the car at 2140 lbs.
Quote:
There's no denying that the Classic has the aerodynamics of a Volvo.
And that is a HUGE disadvantage. It slows you down big time at fast tracks like WSIR.
Quote:
No Cup car is without overheating problems. Proper race prep has solved this for everyone.
Neither my B14 nor Mike's B14 had overheating problems. None. And the Vegas problem was because of a hose that came loose.
Quote:
Save your money and learn to align the car yourself. You'll better be able to make changes to face changing conditions. Take the car to Darrin once a year for a "check-up".
I would rather take it to Darin and spend the $40 and do it right. You do not have to do an alignment with Darin before every race WE. 4 times a year will be fine.
Quote:
Since only 205s are legal in SR, the ability to fit wider tires doesn't really matter unless you're running SRX. In which case you can flare the fenders like Jeff did on his Classic to fit 245s.
Not for long. By next year, more than likely they will be legal in SR.
Re: Split: Help for a newbie and which chassis is best
Quote:
Originally Posted by nj1266
There are so many reasons to get a B14:
1. You start with the freshest cleaneast car possible. I would get a used 1999 B14.
2. You get a 30% stiffer chassis to begin with.
3. You get a more aerodynamic car than the Sentra B13. The NX is fine aerodynamically.
4. B14s tend to have better airflow and do not overheat unless the driver pulls a Monkey
5. Cheap alignments for LIFE. After bending the beam you have zero toe and 1.2-1.4 negative camber for life.
6. The multi-link Beam in the rear keeps the camber rate constant under load.
7. You can fit 225 wide rubber and maybe 235 wide rubber with no problems.
