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It really all comes down to prep. When we put the car on the trailer before a race, it is READY to go, to be rolled off, the tire pressures checked, and rolled to the grid. We've done all the preventive maintenance on the car, including nut and bolt checks, fluid replacement, and visual inspection, and there's no thrashing or running around "wondering" if it's all done and ready to go.
Good sense. I've always operated this way...my car doesn't go to the track unless it is 100% ready. I'm way too much of a tightwad (I squeak when I walk) to waste a minute of a $250 open track day on a broken car.
This is much easier for those who trailer their cars to the track. Many of us around here must drive 5 and 6 hours to get to an event. For those who drive their car to the event, they should always have a checklist to run down once they arrive just to make sure nothing has loosened, run dry, ruptured, broken, etc., etc.
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` Mark Schoenholz
'91 SE-R - original owner, boosted track slut
they should always have a checklist to run down once they arrive just to make sure nothing has loosened, run dry, ruptured, broken, etc., etc.
Right. Greg mentioned this earlier, but checklists are definitely the way to go. Most experienced guys have a mental checklist. In the offseason, I'm going to try and put mine down on paper. With my car and Jeff's, we've come up with all kinds of things to remember (or to forget!).
It won't make as much of a difference for you because you have the luxury of having separate drive wheels and steering wheels. But with turbo power, you'll lite up some slow, sharp corners. I wouldn't worry- in a 240, the stock LVSD will race well to start. Especially if it is fresh and has been serviced.
You can not service a VLSD. Its a sealed unservicable unit. Adding a tightly packed phantomgrip to the sltrock VLSD will make a HUGE difference in a turbo RWD car. Ever drvie a powerful RWD car with a lame diff? Its pretty sketchy.
I knew it would play a huge role in cooling, and figured I could get some high speed stability if I do it correctly. Thank you for clearingthat up...scmser's post only served to confuse me.
I like opinions stated as fact from people who have never done ir experimented with something before.
Last week I was at Willlow Springs where they had gusting 40 mph winds. I drove several aeroless NX's and SE-Rs and they were being buffeted and tossed around to the point where I was 2 seconds a lap slower and didnt feel comfortable. You clould hardly feel the wind in the dog car nor in Tony Guardado's aero equipped classic. It was a huge difference.
If you want some simple guidelines, let me know.
You do have to balance the front to rear downforce with roll stiffness or a rear wing or the car can get tail happy.
oh, i thought that no matter where it was it was chafing. i havent been in there for a long time, i guess you can hide behind the little lip that is there on the inside of the wheelwell?
THe little lip gets pounded down for more tire clearance/wheel travel.
Let me say I do not race my SE-R, but I track the crap out of it. I instruct for various organizations. I like to think I know my way around a track. Quickly.
The *only* issues I've ever had is overheating. NX radiator completely solved it. 2 events in the dead of this summer (95+ F air temp) and the needle didn't budge, at all. At least one SE-R Cup guy at the same NASA VIR-north event I didn't overheat on said he overheated the hell out of his engine.
I never had a problem *stopping* my car with the OE brakes, but I had a problem getting brake stuff to last. NX brakes solved that. I've double my pad life, and quadrupled my rotor life.
Why did the only NX get the good stuff???
Racing for sone reason is an order of mangatude toughter on the car than hotlapping. Even if you are a fast advanced class hotlapper. I think its due to red mist and drafting. Also when you start racing you become much faster than your typical hotlapper, the pressre makes you a better faster driver.
When the cup cars first came out, they were unrelaible because the racers were inexperianced with the prep needed for reral racing. Once everone got the hang of what was needed, they became bombproof.
There is no way an NX radiator can keep a race SE-R cool, not under even the best of conditions. The draft really makes things hot.
There is no way an NX radiator can keep a race SE-R cool, not under even the best of conditions. The draft really makes things hot.
For those of us on a budget, any feedback on the High Performance All-Metal(brass/copper) Radiator listed here: http://www.absoluteradiator.com/Prod....asp?idProd=32
Pretty decent price point, it's gotta be better than the stock SE-R radiator, and I figure it's better than forking over $100 for a used NX radiator.
As a rookie next year, I don't see a lot of drafting issues and red mist for me. If I can get thru a rookie season with this, I'll upgrade later.
Thoughts or comments?
For those of us on a budget, any feedback on the High Performance All-Metal(brass/copper) Radiator listed here: http://www.absoluteradiator.com/Prod....asp?idProd=32
Pretty decent price point, it's gotta be better than the stock SE-R radiator, and I figure it's better than forking over $100 for a used NX radiator.
As a rookie next year, I don't see a lot of drafting issues and red mist for me. If I can get thru a rookie season with this, I'll upgrade later.
Thoughts or comments?
I would go the cheap route buy not scrimping on this issue, see my post on building a reliable car. I would run the proven Koyo and be done with it. Only buy one radiator, don't buy two if the first one didint work. Tom Paule tried a simular radiator and it didnt work as well as a GTI-R radiator which is bairly adiquate for only good conditions.
