A community of enthusiasts dedicated to Nissan's SR20DE/SR20VE/SR20DET engines.
Start here: forum search. Be sure to search on what you're looking for before posting a new thread.
You are currently browsing the forum as a guest. In order to access special features, the image gallery, and post you will need to be a registered member. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact the administrator.
I've gotten some questions about the status of this recently so I thought I'd post an update.
I got the ver 0 boards in a week and a bit ago, but made too many goofs on them for any to be saleable (mostly packaging, nothing electronics related). Too bad, I really wanted a couple of people to test out building a box on their own with one before ordering a large batch. Anyways, I finally got everything worked out and am about to order another batch (ver 1 now). Hopefully they shouldn't take long to test and put up for sale on the forum storefront. I'm aiming for having them in hand and tested by next weekend.
What will be included will be the board (unassembled) and one of the white consult-compatible-with-a-little-work connectors, while my supplies of those last. The other parts are available for purchase from www.mouser.com. I'll post the complete parts list and very detailed assembly walk-through too. They should be easy to build. Electronics parts total to IIRC ~$8.50, and the box I've picked out plus optional LEDs adds another $15-20, I don't remember exactly off the top of my head. The box is optional of course, you can put it in whatever you want, or nothing at all if you mount it in the car behind the dashboard or whatever (I mounted one on my test mule NX under the shifter console). The box I've designed it for however is nice, really nice. Anadized black extruded aluminium, it feels like a little brick. Really really sturdy, I think you guys will like them.
Here's the first ver 0 prototype completed. This one doesn't have any LEDs, the next one I make will. I've spec'd these neat little snap-in panel mount LEDs, they just came in Friday. This one is off for a new life with some bald dude in NY. Ver 1 won't use the plastic bezels on each end, I like the look of the box without them.
Here's what the box looks like unassembled. Its got integrated rails inside just for holding boards, sweet. You can order the box with either plastic or aluminium end panels. I like the aluminium, but plastic might be a little easier to work with.
Is this compatible with any consult port? ie with a 240 and not just the sentra?
__________________
Blair
93 P10
"For I know the plans I have for you," declares the LORD, "plans to prosper you and not to harm you, plans to give you hope and a future." - Jeremiah 29:11 (NIV)
Yes, for the most part. Very early consult ports are not compatible, they use an onlder much more basic version of the consult system. All the 240s that came with DOHC KAs will work, the old SOHC ones won't. Your '93 will work just fine. If you've swapped a SR20DET into a 240 and swapped in the JDM ecu it will also work (any year 240), but you must have swapped in the wiring harness for it aw well. In other words, the JDM SR20DET ecu supports the consult protocol, but you must actually have a physical wiring harness with the consult plug wired correctly.
__________________
All posts by Calum in this thread are copyrighted by Calum, and cannot be edited, deleted, or copied without his express permission. calum@calumsult.com
Yes, for the most part. Very early consult ports are not compatible, they use an onlder much more basic version of the consult system. All the 240s that came with DOHC KAs will work, the old SOHC ones won't. Your '93 will work just fine. If you've swapped a SR20DET into a 240 and swapped in the JDM ecu it will also work (any year 240), but you must have swapped in the wiring harness for it aw well. In other words, the JDM SR20DET ecu supports the consult protocol, but you must actually have a physical wiring harness with the consult plug wired correctly.
Gotcha. I know on my brothers 90 (sohc) we just taped the consult port wires out of the way on his swap. I couldnt find a place that described where they connect to. Any ideas consult master?
When you say you taped the wires out of the way, was that from his old harness or part of the new harness? If that was part of the harness that came with the swap your probably good to go. If not, what you need to figure out is:
1) If he's got a consult connector, does it have the correct pinout. Compare his connector to yours, make sure the pins are in the same spots. If the pins aren't even in the right spots your going to have to make a custom harness to connect to the DET ecus consult port. Not a big deal, I can tell you what wires you need to splice (or just look it up in the B13 FSM, its the same for the DET ecu) and this gets you out of the headache of dealing with the consult plug so it will come out looking pretty dang spiffy too.
2) If the pins are in the right spots you need to figure out if the harness is connected to the right pins on the ecu. Look it up in an B13 FSM which consult pin goes to which ecu pin, its the same for the DET ecu.
Looking good. I will be ready to order as soon as you have these ready. You mention assembly of of consult box, what asembly is required? I'm not very good with this computer assembly stuff.
Also are the connections ECU>harness>consult port>consult box>PC? What I mean to ask is is the tuning done through the consult port?
Thanks,
eletronically stupid Jeff
__________________
Climate Change skeptics are the new Flat Earth Society
OK, let me try and clarify this. There are two different things going on here. The consult port is for monitoring only. You connect to it using an interface box and software, like Calumsult, or ConZult.
To make changes to the program running in your ECU, you need an ECU which is modified with a daughterboard and removable eprom's. Next, you need an eprom burner which is a box that connects to your PC and allows you to read & write to the eprom.
The consult box connects to the pc. When you need to change a value you make the changes in whatever software you are using, pull the 2 chips off of the daugherboard, stick them in your eeprom burner and burn the chips and put them back in. You can use the consult box to make some slight temporary changes or do test.