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This is the first time I've had the car to the dyno since I installed the VE. My best run was 172hp / 138tq.
Here's the setup.
SR20VE
Stock Cams
DE MAF
VE Injectors
HS CAI, with JWT Pop Charger and K&N filter
AEBS Header (with dented downtubes)
3" exhaust with resonator, muffler, and test pipe
MSD 8969 digital window switch, switching both cams at the same time
Fidanza FW
Calum VE ECU, based on SR16VE program
15* timing
I got 7 runs in, and it seemed that the car made more power as it warmed up. The only thing I played with was the cam switching point. The first run was made with the cams switching at 4800, then I set them to 5300 which caused a huge dip on the mid-range, then started to bring it back down in 200rpm increments and finally settled on 4700.
For my last run I disconnected the second half of the CAI at the MAF. The results of that were pretty bad, and we think that not having a filter or the nice JWT POP charger air horn caused allot of turbulence.
I was hoping for 170hp, so I'm pleased with the results.
On my best run (RunFile_1120) the dyno geeked and we got a huge tq spike at 6600 rpm's, so I had to set the smoothing factor to 1 in order to remove the spike, which is why there's a dead spot in the graph, and the readings are kind of jaggy.
I also datalogged the runs, and will post the spreadsheets here when I get a chance.
So, all that said.... Calum and I welcome your thoughts and inputs. Since this is his 'Alpha' SR20VE program, he's going to process this data in his superhuman brain and hopefully be able to use it to tweak the program.
My plans for this motor are to add SR16VE cams, Outlaw spacers, possibly an AFPR, and (if necessary), a bigger maf.
C
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cogito ergo zoom................
Run 1116 - Cams switching at 5300 rpm (red graph)
Run 1120 - Cams switching at 4700 rpm (black graph)
Run 1121 - MAF to WAI (no POP or filter) - 4700 rpm switch (green graph)
I think there's a lot more power there. First, sorry I couldn't get the patch for integrating the innovate ready in time, I had zero freetime this last week. Second, is that Dynoejets wideband? That looks wrong. I have no experience with their widebands, but Mike K. doesn't like them. How did it look on other cars? I really find it hard to believe that your running that lean.
I'd like to see your datalogs. Here's what I think is intresting: you picked up 5hp above the cam switching point between the red and the black plots. I'm assuming that your dyno order went red, black, green? I'd like to see the water temperatures for each of those. I suspect theres something throwing a monkey wrench at lower temperatures.
Btw, if you'll pay for a long dyno session, I'll give you a VE maf and let you borrow some toys. I wish I lived closer to you.
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All posts by Calum in this thread are copyrighted by Calum, and cannot be edited, deleted, or copied without his express permission. calum@calumsult.com
Yes, that's the Dynojet wideband. Remember, I'm not running no cat on the car, so I don't know how that's playing in to the equation.
I suspect the car is picking up hp as it warms up as well, which is what I said in the first post.
You have the order right, red, black green. The red run was my second run, and is where I switched the cams at 5300. The black one was run #6, switching at 4700, and the green run was #7, at 4700 with no filter, no pop, and no fenderwell pipe.
I'm definitely willing to buy an hour of dyno time if you want to do some tweaking. I don't have a wideband, so if you have that, it would be good. Also, I'll need a filter adapter for the VE maf. I'm already pulling 4.83v past the DE maf, so I think I'm going to need to upgrade the maf anyway.
There is quite a bit of power in tuning over the stock sr16 rom. My guess is you would be able to hit 180 with some work. Do you need a VE MAF? I have an extra.
Yes, that's the Dynojet wideband. Remember, I'm not running no cat on the car, so I don't know how that's playing in to the equation.
I suspect the car is picking up hp as it warms up as well, which is what I said in the first post.
You have the order right, red, black green. The red run was my second run, and is where I switched the cams at 5300. The black one was run #6, switching at 4700, and the green run was #7, at 4700 with no filter, no pop, and no fenderwell pipe.
I'm definitely willing to buy an hour of dyno time if you want to do some tweaking. I don't have a wideband, so if you have that, it would be good. Also, I'll need a filter adapter for the VE maf. I'm already pulling 4.83v past the DE maf, so I think I'm going to need to upgrade the maf anyway.
C
I just re-drilled my de filter adapter. If I can get around to it I'll try and work on Calum's map a bit tonight.
Calum, the afr is sometimes 0.5-1.0 point off at the tail pipe
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There is quite a bit of power in tuning over the stock sr16 rom. My guess is you would be able to hit 180 with some work. Do you need a VE MAF? I have an extra.
That would be great. I don't think my DE maf is going to cut it once I get the SR16 cams anyway.
