Bearjing

I'm trying to sort out the right size for an inner tie rod removal/ install tool for a classic se-r. I've searched but can't seem to find any info, and the FSM doesn't have any measurements at all. Can anyone help? I'm thinking of just buying on of those sets, but I want to be sure the right size is included.

Thanks.....

__________________
1991 SE-r Aztec Red "Quiet, She's sleeping"
1992 SE-r Ruby Red "Now with 100% less engine"
1992 SE-r Black Beauty... "It's not his anymore"

Bearjing

OH for Pete's sake, somebody flame me for not searching enough and provide a link to a 3 year old thread or something! Somebody must know........

Please?

SENTRASER

Why dont you get the new one first then measure it? Just an idea...or call a local alignment shop and ask them, 91-4 Sentras and NX's I'm sure are the same.

__________________
~Ryan
1992 NX2000 Hardtop
1989 B12 AWD wagon
1996 200SX SE-R Slowly geting the boost-treatment.
Update: the SR20 has VET+T now, and P11 forward gears

Se-Racer

i used a pipe wrench to take mine out.

Bearjing

Thanks for the ideas --
I was hoping to order everything at once, but I guess it's not gonna work that way.... unless a shop would know-- Good point about that. I'll call around.

Might be able to fine a tie rod at a junk yard though. Maybe if I go this weekend I'll see one there and can measure it, if the non se-r's are the same. Really all I need is the darn inner boot....

I haven't ever done anything tie rod related and I'm not really sure how the wrench method works... I figured I'd pic up the "right" tool from one of those cheap tool places and make it a little easier for myself.

nite-stalker

i am in the process of doing this, the tool i bought will be here tomorrow.
http://www.jackxchange.com/products/7864.cfm
i believe its 30mm or 1-3/16"

once i get it and try it out i will post my findings...

Bearjing

Sweet!! I'd appriciate it!

jerimiah

Hey. I just did mine not too long ago. I just locked some vice grips on it and beat the fu*k out it till it broke loose. I couldnt find them damn tool thingers anywhere.

__________________
Jerimiah ------

1999 G20 - Boosted.

SENTRASER

Dont pust a used one on it, go new, because they typically wear out around 125k or so (the inner tie-rod). It would be worth it to just put a new one on it, but if you're just needing to replace the boot, then just do the boot. Although, when I did the boot on my old 93 Sentra XE it was difficult to find the correct one, even through the dealer. I think I went through like 2 or 3 diffrent ones untill I found the correct one. That tool looks like the correct one, although you could probably make one if you had a welder,the correct size socket, and some pipe, and decent cutting/welding skills.

Bearjing

The car has 93K on it. I'm kind of figuring on replacing the tie rod as long as I'm in there even though it isn't bad. Why take it off twice? I guess I could weld up a replacement -- hadn't considered it for the 20 dollars the kits run.

I took the thing to a shop just to see what they would charge and the owner told me the only reason those boots rip is because of a power steering leak in the rack-- something about fluid leaking into the boot then causing it to pop like a balloon. He went out to my car and checked the power steering fluid level, which is low, and said, "Yeah, That's it".

Well, my power steering reservoir itself leaks -- fluid all over the passenger side of the car, on the tubes and all. I know it needs to be fixed, but it hasn't bothered me enough yet that I've done it. I sort of figure *that's* why the fluid is low, and I don't see any leakage around the rack, although I haven't really crawled under there looking yet. Anyway, I was wondering if anyone besides me thought he might have been full of sh1t.... I mean, I live in a desert, and all rubber dries and cracks bad. Does it really *automatically* mean the rack is bad? I mean, he didn't even *look at the rack*, and didn't appear to notice the PS fluid around the reservoir.

By the way, he wanted 700 dollars to replace the rack. I told him I'd be looking into ways of eliminating the power steering instead and left.

(BTW, I'm female, so I wonder if some shops figure they have an easy scare on there hands and I'll just fork over money for whatever they say needs to be done instead of looking into it or doing it myself.)

johnand

The guy is full of sh*t. You can easily just have a boot that dries out an cracks. The boots are very simular to the CV boots, they just eventually wear out, and crack. I replaced my 2 cracked boots, the inner and outer tie rods on my 91 over a year ago, and the rack was perfectly fine. Just had some dirt in it from the cracked boots.

nite-stalker

This tool worked beautifully on my 91 SER.

I think i used the 1 5/16" one, not the 1-3/16" one... but anyways, one of the three that came with it should work.

Also remember to use the tool gently, not to drop it etc. I've chipped a part of the socket (not important). The quality of the tool isnt the best, but you get what you paid for and i am happy with it.

Bearjing

Very Cool! Thank you -- I'll get the same set and try it myself. And, as often as I'll use it, the quality of the tool isn't very important. Having it available the few times I'll need it will be enough.

Thanks again --

jerimiah

Cathy, I have a power steering resivoir you can get dirt cheap, and an inner tie rod end thats good as well. If you want these let me know ill work ya a sweet deal. The tie rod has a good boot too!

jerimiah

Bearjing

Thanks for the vote-- Me "1", Dumb shop owner guy "0".

Seriously though, after getting under the car and doing some cleaning, I'm pretty convinced the rack is fine.

I moved my is he full of sh*t question to a poll in this section. I'm curious to see if anyone thinks the guy's making sense....


NK2kjl, thank for the offer, and let me get back to you -- i'm still trying to decide what route to go on this... and I may upgrade to the b14 reservoir while I'm at it. You do cut some good deals though --

jerimiah

Ok. just let me know.

Sanyo

I myself used an adjustable wrench to get mine out. Word to the wise though (that the right saying?) when putting it all back together, MAKE SURE you do the clip right. When I did mine a few months back, I didn't clamp down the clip on the inner tie rod enough apparently, and over a few months it worked it's way out. Luckily it came out while I was at a stop, and not far from school. They put it on, clamped it down tight as could be, and put so much loctite in it there's not chance in hell of it EVER comming out, even if I want it to. So just be careful

__________________
When I heated my home with oil, I used an average of 800 gallons a year. I have found that I can keep comfortably warm for an entire winter with slightly over half that quantity of beer.

SENTRASER

Whats so special about the B14 resiviour?
P.S. After I replaced the boot, I sold my car (93 XE). I have come to find out that the buyer had later had to have the inner tie-rod replaced. My advice, check out new prices, and go from there. IIRC the boot was something like $6 or so, and I dont know how much the inner tie-rod was. Oh yeh, you'll also need to get a front end alignment done after the replacement. Just FYI.
~Ryan

Bearjing

B14 reservoir doesn't leak through the caps during "spirited" drives. They just made the cap better than on the b13's, or so I read....

I will get it aligned. I like that car too much to drive it pulling this way or that... I will consider replacing the tie rods while I'm in there... I've been going back and forth. Pricing 'em can't hurt.

Se-Racer

My B14 cap leaks on track events and autox. The tie rods from the dealer when i bought mine were around $55 per side,but you should be able to find them cheaper since i have the worst $tealer$hip in country.