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Okay, The car ran great going to work today, after work, I get in, and it will not go into gear, the clutch isnt releasing. Grinds reverse, resists any other gear. I figure the cable was out of adjustment after I reinstalled the tranny. Well, all the sudden it works, then doesnt again.
I checked the cable, and advanced as far as I could go, the clutch is over disengaged and still will not let go of the freakin flywheel! If i start it in gear, the car will roll with the clutch all the way in. WTF! Any ideas?!!?!?
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1968 Datsun 510 - 2.2L Z22E (EFI, SOHC) Soon to be ***KA24DE***
1991 Nissan Sentra SE-R I/H/E/AGX/GC ***SR20DE***
BTW: Its an Exedy clutch. Very new. Less than 1K on it. The TO bearing appeared fine and spun freely with no unusual noise and it was greased up liberally on the shaft.
The first thing I would check is to see if the clutch release lever is cracked. I know it may sound dumb but the crack can be small (usually at the weld seam joining the lever arm to the shaft) and inconspicuous yet still cause this problem. This happenned to me a few months ago.
If it's intact and your cable is good you may have to drop the tranny again. Before you do that, however, you should look at PrettyWhite's thread about using the Home Depot brass reducer and 1" ID washer to get more cable adjustment room.
My bet is that the disc spit its springs out, or the spring retainers. It happened to me, twice in a row with my Clutch Specialties disc. The first time was with 12k miles on the setup, the 2nd with 2k miles on it.
Time to drop the trans again
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Chris '91 VVL-powered SE-RSOLD
VE! Koni/GC's, Apexi, Progress, Crown, Carbotech, ACT, GSpec, Fidanza, VDO, Nismo, and other goodies '04 G35 6MT '99 CBR600 F4
No such luck. The arm is intact. Although, is it normal to have nearly 3" of rotational play? I canmove it enough that I can hear the to bearing slap the clutch...
INSERT 100 EXPLETIVES HERE! *** trans was a pain in the ass to get out, no to do it again, will take some major willpower. I am near the point I dont even want to look at it. But, it will get done...
I feel your pain. I did 2 clutches (a b14 and b13) and I had to drop my trans twice. and this was all within 3 weeks, in a garage. It get easier everytime you do it.
I had to drop mine because the bearing was bad. I replaced it with a OEM and it's like butta.
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Davis
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'96 200sx: HS CAI, HS Header, 2.5" VRS Exhaust, Timing 17*, Hyperco's/AGX's, ACT HD w/ Street Disc, 8lbs ADFab Flywheel, Prothanes, B&M SS, '98 Honeycomb Grill, G20 ECU, '92 Intake Cam. B-13 Front Seats, Ground Kit by ToolAPCfan.
Awaiting Install:Outlaw Thermoblok Spacers.
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Last edited by thrive_808 : 03-22-2005 at 11:54 AM.
510&SE-R
Is this on a 510 or the se-r. I live near temecula but go to San Bernardino on the weekends if you want we can work something out depending on how far you live from here. I have changed my trans and helped other people on this forum with there clutch install let me know. Sorry to hear about that. I always after putting the tranny on with about 4 bolts check to see if the throw out bearing did not pop out cause it has happened to me before.
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F-max stg ll, t3/t4 ballbearing,300zx TT fuelpump,msd digital 6, o2induction stglll IM,intercooler,camgears,UR racing pulleys,JWT program for S-3,waterinjection,race fuel,cobra maf. jwt fuel rail,ES bushingset,Zex flywheel 10.2lbs, ACT clutch, head port/polish with intake bored 1mm and angle job,steel braided brakelines,Arias pistons 8.5.1,eagle rods,80 shot direct port N.O.S. Koyo radiator
OK, the trans is out again. There doesnt seem to be anything wrong!
THe only thing I could suspect is the TO bearing. But at the same time, when I over adjusted the hell out of the cable using washers just to experiment, it wouldnt let go then either.
Any other suggestions? And, as I said, it only does it when the engine is off, so, it must be a clutch/clutch arm/TO issue. Otherwise it would do it all the time, no?
