Nissan SR20 Forum Nissan SR20 Forum Header Right

Welcome to the SR20 Forum!

A community of enthusiasts dedicated to Nissan's SR20DE/SR20VE/SR20DET engines.
Start here: forum search. Be sure to search on what you're looking for before posting a new thread.

You are currently browsing the forum as a guest. In order to access special features, the image gallery, and post you will need to be a registered member. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact the administrator.

Google Links

» Wheel & Tire Center

» Log in
User Name:

Password:

Not a member yet?
Register Now!
Sponsors

Sponsors


Go Back   SR20 Forum > Main Forums > SR20DE Technical Corner



Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 04-04-2005, 06:13 PM   #1 (permalink)
What next?

 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Hudsonville, Michigan
Trader Rating: 6 (100%)

Replacing Ball Joints

Hey guys, you have probably heard this a lot, but how do you replace a ball joint. I just bought a new one and I have a press I rented out from auto zone, and now I just have to figure out how to remove it and put in the new one. Can someone please post instructions (and maybe some pics) to replace one ASAP, I have to do this in a couple of days. Are there any other tools or parts I need? I need to replace the drivers side (if that matters). Thanks!!!

BTW, I have searched and found a little info.
__________________
-Steve
black_nx is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 04-05-2005, 02:42 AM   #2 (permalink)
SE-R Geek

 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Trader Rating: 4 (100%)

This is how I do it, first I take off the control arm, second I take off the safety ring, third step is find a hammer and wack the old ball joint out should take a few blows to wack it out. Putting it in is just the opposite, hope this helps.
Phxdude is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-05-2005, 12:11 PM   #3 (permalink)
Proud Italian

 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: missouri
Trader Rating: 10 (100%)

^^^^What he said.
__________________
91 SE-R. R.I.P old freind
91 part 2



"Dream as if you live forever, live as if you die today." -James Dean

And, I don't mind at all being looked down upon by purists. Indeed I don't mind at all being looked down upon by those whom I do not look up to at all. -
b13magoo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-05-2005, 07:58 PM   #4 (permalink)
Your dead Twinkie
 
Benito Malito's Avatar

I support the SR20 Forum!
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Portland, Or
Trader Rating: 29 (100%)

I am very spastic with hammers. So I just use the autozone tool to take them out, and bring the arms to this shop down the block from me. The guy charges me $20, and has them back to me in 2-3 hours if he's not too busy.
__________________
1992 SE-R 'Fasty' JDM DE, HSwai w/N60 MAFS, 370s, Walbro 255/Nismo fpr, Calum RT, 2.5 SSAC, 3" mandrel bent cat-back, ACT HDPP, ClutchMasters unspring disc, 16VE flywheel, Gspec wp pulley. Ready for more boost.

There he goes one of gods own prototypes. A high powered mutant of some kind not even considered for mass production. Too weird to live and too rare to die

HST
Benito Malito is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-29-2005, 03:10 PM   #6 (permalink)
What next?

 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Hudsonville, Michigan
Trader Rating: 6 (100%)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ninety-Nine SE-L
I've been pounding at the ball joint for an hour now and it won't come out of the control arm. I removed the snap ring and it hasn't moved a mm. I'm gonna try this tool, but I'm doubtful it'll work.
I first tried a hammer to get the ball joint out, but it didn't work for me either so I rented the autozone tool and it worked just fine.
black_nx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-29-2005, 03:18 PM   #7 (permalink)
broke, busted and rusted

 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: g-burg, MD
Trader Rating: 3 (100%)

use the balljoint press tool, either rent it from autozone or buy one for real cheap from harbor freight.com it worked like a champ. You just need a big breaker bar to make your life easier with the press.

Press the old one out and then with the proper size sleeve press the new one back in. For me getting the new one in, was harder than getting the old one out. I can take pictures of my tool and show you the set up I used this evening.

1. jack up car, remove wheel
2. remove cotter pin and loosen ball joint nut but dont remove it.
3. pop ball joint loose from knuckle. you can use a pickle fork or use scott higashi's trick
Place a 12mm wrench above the nut (between the balljoin nut and the axle carrier) then use a wrench the loosen the nut with the wrench between the nut and the carrier. Since the 12mm wrench keeps the balljoint nut in place, everyturn on the nut force the balljoint down which will eventually pop free if you keep wrenching. It will take some force but it will eventually pop and you wont have to worry about splitting the ball joint boot. In this case it doesnt matter.
4. remove control are pivot bolt (toward front of car).
5. remove control arm bushing bracket bolts (toward rear of car)
6. remove control arm. ( you may have to loosen the sway bar bushing bracket to get enough clearance to pull the control arm out

7. Use the ball joint press and go to work, pop old one out and pop new one back in.

Install is reverse of removal. Balljoints were alot easier to do than I thought. Do not attempt to replace the ball joints without removing the control arm, it is a complete PITA and will take longer.

Last edited by Fonque : 07-29-2005 at 05:07 PM.
Fonque is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-06-2007, 04:28 AM   #8 (permalink)
the b14 is my girlfriend.

 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Oxnard, Cali
Trader Rating: 2 (100%)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fonque View Post
remove cotter pin and loosen ball joint nut but dont remove it.
3. pop ball joint loose from knuckle. you can use a pickle fork or use scott higashi's trick
Place a 12mm wrench above the nut (between the balljoin nut and the axle carrier) then use a wrench the loosen the nut with the wrench between the nut and the carrier. Since the 12mm wrench keeps the balljoint nut in place, everyturn on the nut force the balljoint down which will eventually pop free if you keep wrenching. It will take some force but it will eventually pop and you wont have to worry about splitting the ball joint boot. In this case it doesnt matter.

i read step 3 a few times, but it confuses me, pictures anyone????
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by brooklyn nx View Post
1: Dont give up 2: You need to get a job that pays a little better 3:Get a girlirfriend who supports your cause. I got 2 cars that need help and no steady work but that dont stop me from getting a little done at a time,If you love your car and love what you do youl get through it.
rEf1eX 22 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-06-2007, 11:11 PM   #9 (permalink)
broke, busted and rusted

 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: g-burg, MD
Trader Rating: 3 (100%)

get under the car and take a look at the nut for the balljoint and its location and then that scott higashi trick will make sense. I used it, and it works flawlessly.
You not only have to take the nut off the balljoint, but you also have to pop the balljoint. The trick takes care of both issues, by jamming something above the nut to hold it in place, this way when the nut turns it forces the balljoint down instead of the nut coming up.
__________________
i program my heart to beat break beats and hum basslines in exhalation - matter, verse, spirit
TELL THE TRUTH!
Fonque is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-06-2007, 11:30 PM   #10 (permalink)
this foreum= FAIL

 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: aberdeen/ B-MORE B-YATCH!
Trader Rating: 8 (100%)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Benito Malito View Post
I am very spastic with hammers.
i love that word. i have this picture of pure acwardness in my head

heres a trick fo you. all you need is a big hammer and a large crow bar.

once you remove the nut on the ball joint, find a safe place to pry down on the control arm...try to get the crow bar as far towards the hub as possible (more leverage) now take the hammer and start to hit the hub where the tapperd portion of the ball joint enters the hub.........DO NOT HIT THE STAMPED CONTROL ARM. if you slip thats fine. but dont intentionaly slam the control arm. the hub is cast steel and wont get a scratch on it. a few solid whacks and the ball joint will pop right out of the hub.

you can do the same to tie rods
__________________
THIS FORUM HAS BEEN AROUND SINCE 2000........TRUST ME WHEN I SAY YOUR QUESTION HAS ALREADY BEEN ASKED. SEARCH BEFORE YOU POST....PLEASE
please read this link to expand on above.

Last edited by classicaddict : 12-06-2007 at 11:43 PM.
classicaddict is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-07-2007, 10:27 AM   #12 (permalink)
Sr20's Get u Laid

 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: florida
Trader Rating: 21 (96%)

napa presses them for 10 bucks in 25 mins
__________________
____________________________
|................JDM......................| ||
|........Parts From Japan.............||'|";,
|_..._...____________======||_|_|...,]
"(@)'(@)''''''''''''''''''''''''*|(@)(@)*****" (@)
s132nr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-08-2007, 03:48 AM   #14 (permalink)
the b14 is my girlfriend.

 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Oxnard, Cali
Trader Rating: 2 (100%)

Quote:
Originally Posted by s132nr View Post
napa presses them for 10 bucks in 25 mins
SWEAR... oh sh*t, thats tight.
do they press them out to, or is that up to us?
rEf1eX 22 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-08-2007, 11:48 AM   #15 (permalink)
Sr20's Get u Laid

 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: florida
Trader Rating: 21 (96%)

yep, they can press anything, i took my control arm for new ball joints. they pressed the old ones out and new ones it and i took my new wheel hub to get the wheel bearings pressed also..........i didnt know this either until i saw the shop in the back of the store

Last edited by s132nr : 12-08-2007 at 11:50 AM.
s132nr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-08-2007, 12:44 PM   #16 (permalink)
the b14 is my girlfriend.

 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Oxnard, Cali
Trader Rating: 2 (100%)

thats fu**ing tight.

thanx for the info, i wonder if the local one will do that
rEf1eX 22 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2007, 12:08 PM   #17 (permalink)
Your dead Twinkie
 
Benito Malito's Avatar

I support the SR20 Forum!
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Portland, Or
Trader Rating: 29 (100%)

Quote:
Originally Posted by classicaddict View Post
i love that word. i have this picture of pure acwardness in my head
Me too. Wow this is an old thread. I don't touch these things anymore. Its too cheap to have a shop or buddy with a press do it.
Benito Malito is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2007, 01:04 PM   #18 (permalink)
PLAY MY HEAD, MONKEY!
 
daveracer's Avatar

 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Holden, Ma
Trader Rating: 89 (100%)

I don't mess with ball joint replacements. I just replace the control arms, because it's like $100 for both sides. By the time you need new ball joints, the control arms are, in most cases, pretty rough.
__________________
.
daveracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2007, 10:04 PM   #20 (permalink)
Sr20's Get u Laid

 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: florida
Trader Rating: 21 (96%)

x2/\
s132nr is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply



  SR20 Forum > Main Forums > SR20DE Technical Corner


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.0 RC2

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:22 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2008, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
SEO by vBSEO 3.2.0
© The SR20 Forum - Content from this site may not be used without permission