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hey if you dont get this yourself... feel free to come my way and make a day of it. oh and uh i returned my timing light to sears so.... youll have to bring your own. no worrys though, they can be had for under 50 bucks. i think mine was $38, while i had it.
When I was at the SoCal February 19th meet, Mike Kojima set my timing. The procedure that he followed was a lot simpler than the one listed in the FSM. He warmed up the car to normal operating temperatures, disconnected the TPS while the car was still running, revved the engine three times to about 3,000 rpm to lock in the engine in timing mod, and then adjusted the timing. I like this procedure and I will use it in the future.
Originally posted by Stiletto the cheater..er...quick method:
When I was at the SoCal February 19th meet, Mike Kojima set my timing. The procedure that he followed was a lot simpler than the one listed in the FSM. He warmed up the car to normal operating temperatures, disconnected the TPS while the car was still running, revved the engine three times to about 3,000 rpm to lock in the engine in timing mod, and then adjusted the timing. I like this procedure and I will use it in the future.
I did mine after the drive from work. Car was at normal temp and running. Just disconect TPS, Rev it up 3 times and shoot to kill!!!
on my car (91 SR20DE) I see 6 white marks, I know the closest to the firewall one is 0 and the further one is 20 (I think), however those white marks are evenly spaced, I borrowed my mechanic's timing light to do this myself and I donno if I'm reading it right.. My mark is slightly below the second to the last mark with timing light set to 0. And when I checked using the timing light dial I found that my timing is already at 18 degree! is that possible? or am I wrong?
maybe the timing light is off... I'm not sure what I'm reading.. someone help please!
hey atomic bomberman, did you set your idle to spec? if its revving a little high your timing will advance a little. I think its supposed to be at 800rpm.
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Chris '91 VVL-powered SE-R
VE! Koni/GC's, Apexi, Progress, Crown, Carbotech, ACT, GSpec, Fidanza, VDO, Nismo, and other goodies '04 G35 6MT '99 CBR600 F4
hmm I did it yesterday, apperently the first mark is not 0 but -5, in that case my timing was at 13 degree. I advanced it to 18 degree via the method discribed by se-r.net
However, as I drive it today, I felt there seems to be a lost in power or at least lowend torque. The engine just doesn't seems to pull as hard as it used to. Is that possible? Should I reset my ECU tonight and see what happens?
i think everytime i've done a mod to increase power i have disconnected the battery for 30 mins. and then drove (after reconnecting the batt) sorta aggressive. that way the computer "learns" how you want the car to perform.
Originally posted by Stiletto i think everytime i've done a mod to increase power i have disconnected the battery for 30 mins. and then drove (after reconnecting the batt) sorta aggressive. that way the computer "learns" how you want the car to perform.
It takes a lot longer than 30 minutes to reset the ECU... Try a few hours... Maybe longer. Though, I must say, resetting the ECU so that it could "learn" how you want the car to perform is somewhat of a fallacy. The ECU constantly "learns" for lack of a better term. Think about it... What are all those sensors (MAF, o2, etc.) for? You shouldn't need to reset the ECU after doing mods because the ECU adapts to the new mod anyway.
Quote:
Originally posted by atomicbomberman However, as I drive it today, I felt there seems to be a lost in power or at least lowend torque. The engine just doesn't seems to pull as hard as it used to. Is that possible? Should I reset my ECU tonight and see what happens?
Hmm... That's interesting... It shouldn't happen, and you shouldn't need to reset your ECU. Hmm, if you followed the timing advance procedure from SE-R.net, I recall seeing a typo. It said to rotate the distributor towards the firewall to retard, and towards the front of the car to advance. It should be the other way around: Towards the firewall to advance and towards the front of the car to retard. I ended up advancing the timing on 3 cars (and did a cam install on a 4th car) over the weekend, and everyone felt a noticeable SOTP gain in power from the moment they drove off.
Originally posted by RollcageSR20 It takes a lot longer than 30 minutes to reset the ECU... Try a few hours... Maybe longer.
i was only going off of the info posted in the ECU section of the se-r.net FAQ.
Quote:
Though, I must say, resetting the ECU so that it could "learn" how you want the car to perform is somewhat of a fallacy. The ECU constantly "learns" for lack of a better term. Think about it... What are all those sensors (MAF, o2, etc.) for? You shouldn't need to reset the ECU after doing mods because the ECU adapts to the new mod anyway.
i know "learn" is perhaps a poor choice of words. but basically, by resetting the ecu, you are forcing the comp to start w/ no memory of how you drive or what the sensors have recorded in the past. if only mods were to the ECU like a sound card is to a plug n' play OS!
Originally posted by Stiletto i know "learn" is perhaps a poor choice of words. but basically, by resetting the ecu, you are forcing the comp to start w/ no memory of how you drive or what the sensors have recorded in the past. if only mods were to the ECU like a sound card is to a plug n' play OS!
But what is the advantage of resetting the ECU if the ECU is constantly self-learning? All resetting the ECU does is take it back to base settings. Starting from scratch isn't going to make the ECU learn faster. It still requires a certain number of starts before it adapts to a modification, with the exception of timing and pulleys which you'll feel right away. What's the difference if the ECU starts from base settings or current settings?
[Note: I'm not at all saying you shouldn't reset your ECU. Just pointing out that it is unnecessary.]
try to see when your car was manufactured....not all of the '91s had the first timing mark at 13*. You can read that at the bottom of that se-r.net link that was posted earlier....
my car was made in 12/90 (yes it was one of the very early ones, production begins on 10/90).
As for power, it drives more or less like before. And the mark cannot be 13 because all 6 marks are evenly spaced. So either the first mark was at 0 or -5, my guess is -5 because my car haven't blown up yet.
Maybe I need a new clutch... hehe
The thing is my car is already remarkablely fast for a stock car. I can beat out modded Hondas almost all of them, even the 2.2L Vtec Prelude with bolt on and a REALLY good driver only took me by 1/2 a car and only in 3rd gear (that was before the advanced timing).
Maybe it's just me. I'll be changing my oil this weekend and we'll see how my car runs after that.
As for the timing advance, yes the SE-R.net does have a type, I figured that out when I ended up retarding my timing when I first twisted the way they told me to. That was quickly fixed of course.
Hehe..my car was made in 12/90 too. I didn't notice the timing advance for like a day or so....and even then, the only time i really noticed the difference was when the a/c was on. the engine didn't feel as stressed.
Car was at normal temp and running. Just disconect TPS, Rev it up 3 times and shoot to kill!!! 
