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Heres whats going on guys, i need help. I cant figure this one out!
One night i come come home and shut the car off, no problems during this time.
so the next morning i come to the car and it starts no problem, but as soon as i start releasing the clutch the car shut off!! So i try to start it again, and all it does is crank, no start. So now i try to start it while pumping the gas, like you would with a carburator. It gives some signs of wanting to start, but no luck. After trying that the car smells like gasoline, so i left it at that.
So when coming to check the reason it smells like gas, It starts!! But we go back to the same problem dies when trying to go forward. I tested the fuel pump, replaced fuel filter, Actually changed the fuel rail with injectors and new cap and rotor. No luck!!!! so i left it at that
next day for some reason i dont remember, I removed the air filter and it starts!!! But still same problem, when trying to go forward.
So I put the ECU into test mode, so I end up getting a code 12 and 34
MAF and Knock sensor codes.
So i replace the MAF and what do you know problem solved!! no more code 12 but still 34, Keep in mind that the CHECK ENGINE LIGHT was on before all this happened. So now i can actually drive the car!!
So im driving, and what do you know Its Back!!!! the car died again once again i cannot rev the engine. I know that the MAF is in limp mode But what is causing the MAF to go bad a short or the air filter??? I dont think its a short and the filter although not new its not clogged or Filthy!!!! So what gives.
Ok now the only way to start my car is to remove the whole fuel rail and clear out the cylinders by cranking the engine and it will actually start!!! If i try to start the car with the fuel rail in place it wont start!!!! it will just crank!! and flood the cylinders with gas!!! So like i said i have to remove the fuel rail w/ the injectors and the car will run till it burns the fuel in the cylinders. Then after that if I replace the fuel rail, the car will start. I can drive it till i goes back into it limp mode. Then if it shuts off It wont start again because it will flood the cylinders with gas. So i have to do the whole remove the fuel rail process to start the car again so it idles. WHAT THE HELL IS GOING ON!!!!
So I guess my problem is What is causing my car to go into limp mode and shut off? then when I clear the Cylinders it will start! and then go back into limp mode.
I just need help Ive been trying to get this problem fixed, but no luck!
SO any help, or suggestions? thanks
Rick
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Sounds like you have leak in injector o-rings... or something to that extent.
The overfilling of gas into the cylinders is causing the problem, obviously :P
yup, that would be my guess too. pull the injectors OFF the fuel rail and i bet your o-rings are gone.
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Ok yeah i noticed that there is some sort of gasoline in the rings. Kind of like it leaks out from there but not much. I will replace them just to make sure. But will that cause the whole problem in general? causing the MAF to malfunction, or send it into limp mode? or why would it start when removing the fuel rail then clearing out the cylinders. then when the car decides to go back to limp mode and die, why does it flood the cylinders when attempting to start? But yeah the ORings dont look to be in the best shape i will replace them. thanks for the quick tip, any more bright ideas. Oh and thansk for reading my long ass post.
Ok thanks i will will report back if the problem persists after o-rings are replaced. as of right now, I cleared the cylinders of the fuel, and its running right. No check engine light either.
ok i dont thinks its the o-rings, because i changed the entire fuel rail with injecors. Unless the o-rings are bad in that also. I thought it could be the isolators and replaced them as well and propely bolted them down. and now it wont start it just cranks. as supposed when it WASN'T propely bolted down and it at least started. Did i mention that when the car goes into limp mode the check engine light turns OFF!! as to when it runs correctly the check engine light is ON!! Whats that about. What are other problem causing the car to run RICH? I checked the manual and Under fuel problems it says:
well no, i had to order them. LOL What did you think I was trying to go around it? Really, I did change the whole fuel rail with different injectors, thus different O-rings. Like i said maybe they are both bad. Im waiting for the parts that i ordered to cancel them, because i think i got the wrong parts. Because it dont say o-rings on the paper, i think it says spacer or something like that. Any other suggestions? since im actually using different Injector O-rings, fuel rail and injectors. Im still trying to figure out the problem, i was working on a clutch job yesterday and my friend said it was leaking so i checked it out and his oil seal was busted. So i had to replace it
why would you say that? All i did was use a friends extra fuel rail, i just changed the whole piece at once, I tried that after the MAF wasnt helping. The reason I said earlier, that it could be something shorting out the MAF is because, When i had originaly replaced the MAF it stopped throwing out that code(12). Then after a few try of starting the car, it suddenly starting throwing the code again. About the O-rings they are on order, so till then I will try messing with it till i change the O-rings. I'm not totally convinced that the O-rings are causing the whole problem. Doesnt mean I wont try it!
well Ok i have seated the fuel rail properly, And about 1 hour ago the car ran fine, except it has the check engine light on. Remember what I said that when the car runs fine, it has the check engine light on! but when its acting up its OFF! As of right now the car runs fine!!! What's going on maybe the ECU is malfunctioning?