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Go Back   SR20 Forum > Main Forums > SR20DE Technical Corner



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Old 06-08-2005, 07:15 PM   #1 (permalink)
EECS Nerd.

 
Join Date: Sep 2004
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Anyone with a whiteline LCA brace (or a LCA brace for that matter) install headers..?

Just wondering who removed stock headers with their LCA brace on. The whiteline has been a pain in the ass from day 1. Nice peice, but in the way of every other damned thing. Wait no, correct that, every damned thing. Especially if you're like me and refuse to remove it.

The stock header is a one peice POS design - good size flex pipe though. I refuse to remove my LCA brace (due to previous circumstances where I had to helicoil one of the bolts on the LCA clamp -- a whiteline mounting point) - I dont want to weaken the helicoil on that sensitive area.

Is it possible to just twist and flex the stock header out with the LCA right there? I'd rather not cut it up, incase I need to put it back on. I'm curious to see how much leverage that flexpipe has in order for me to rip out the old header (with minimal damage to the radiator, fans, etc).

Putting a 2-peice header back on will be easy. Just getting the stock header off..

Any information would be pwnage
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Old 06-08-2005, 07:23 PM   #2 (permalink)
Canyon_Boogie

 
Join Date: Apr 2003
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You should have asked me I sold you the danm thing! IIRC

I was removing my hotshot header to install my stockers for passing smog. The downpipe will not come out unless you remove the whiteline brace. I removed the whiteline brace and re-installed the stock header. Then when everything was back on I put the brace back on. The rear 2 bolts of the whiteline brace are easy to put back in, but the front 2 which go through the control arms will be a pain in the ass. You have to line up the brace hole with the control arm hole to make a perfect fit and slide the bolt through. Hope this helps. -Adam
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Old 06-08-2005, 07:31 PM   #3 (permalink)
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No.. its not that.. The brace is a nice peice, its just a PITA.

The rear bolt (under driverside) is where I cross-threaded a subframe bolt. I'm not removing that. I refuuuuuuuuuse to unless its absolutely necessary.

The 2 front bolts were easier for me to put in than the rears, lol.. seeing how I crossthreaded that.


Ok question, is it safe to remove a bolt from a hole that's been helicoiled, and rebolt it later? Won't the helicoil threads be weakened/compromised in some way?

Hm..
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Old 06-08-2005, 07:32 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I would think you could wiggle the flex-pipe around enough to tilt and clear the primaries from their stock location and drop it. Like.. rotate the primaries (along with the 2ndaries) to shove it out. I'll look at it closer when I get home. I'm almost sure theres enough room.. just wanted to double check.
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Old 06-08-2005, 07:44 PM   #5 (permalink)
Canyon_Boogie

 
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When I was removing my dp it was still connected to the cat so that limited my maneuvarability (spelling?)

And I wasnt mad about the thread I admit it can be a pain in the ass to install lol. I was just saying you should have pmed me about it
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Old 06-08-2005, 07:47 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Ah.

My cat is stock, I can remove it fine :P (the cat that is).

I'm gonna get a few pics of the rotation direction I'm talkin about, I think it *SHOULD* be do-able.

I duno, I figured you would've had headers on before the brace install :P

Does anyone have any input about removing bolts from holes that have been helicoiled? I'd rather not have to call up Miko :P He's a busy guy.
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Old 06-08-2005, 07:55 PM   #7 (permalink)
Canyon_Boogie

 
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I did have headers on before the install. Gen 5's. but i had to remove them and put stock headers back on so I could smog it.


If you take 3 of the bolts out, minus the helicoiled one, the brace should drop a few inches, possibly enough for you to slide it out to freedom.
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Old 06-08-2005, 08:00 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Think its possible to do it without removing the whiteline brace bolts at all?

I could probably unbolt the stock header all the way, slide it back maybe an inch or so (granted, the flexpipe will flex.. but.. thats what its there for). Then rotate the primaries near the battery and slide it out that way? Once I get the primaries rotated to point below the car, I should be able to slide the downpipe right past the LCA brace (parallel direction to crossmember). Technically. Hopefully. I pray. =\
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Old 06-08-2005, 08:03 PM   #9 (permalink)
Canyon_Boogie

 
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do you have a plan for getting the new dp back in?
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Old 06-08-2005, 08:04 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Its a 2 peice system. Just slide it in and bolt it up to the primaries and the cat. (2 peice, i.e. ssauto-crap :P)


If I can get it out this way (assuming theres enough clearance), i can get the new dp in no problem.
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Old 06-08-2005, 08:13 PM   #11 (permalink)
Canyon_Boogie

 
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Well i wish you luck sir. I remember when i removed my header and the dp dropped down on the brace I was messing with it for about 10 min before I decided to remove the brace........Let me know how it goes
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Old 06-08-2005, 08:14 PM   #12 (permalink)
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edit, nevermind.
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Old 06-08-2005, 08:15 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Actually, closer inspection.. I can't rotate towards the driverside. The stupid crossmember is in the way. Dropping crossmember = dropping LCA brace = PITA.

If I remove the alternator (I have no AC right now), I can rotate it left. Alot of work and thought to be lazy..

Gonna see if I can map that out. Removing alternator is ALOT easier than everything else. I might end up hack-jobbing the header and cutting the OEM off. POS.

Last edited by liupj : 06-08-2005 at 08:43 PM.
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