You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us.
Well, you've gone through the process of elimination; although you need to pick up a stehescope and put it on the water pump while the car is running and make sure its coming from that, and not the powersteering pump.
Something like this would work: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=41966
__________________
~Ryan
1992 NX2000 Hardtop
1989 B12 AWD wagon
1996 200SX SE-R Slowly geting the boost-treatment.
Update: the SR20 has VET+T now, and P11 forward gears
Quote:
Originally Posted by abelsgotspeed
look i dont feel like searching its either you give me the answer or you shut the fu*k up
Quote:
Originally Posted by chriscar
Easy rule when going turbo.... upgrade EVERYTHING. Because eventually you will need to.
The pin stethoscope from HF is okay for mechanical noises and you should be able to find your noise with it, but I after all these years I still prefer an air source stethoscope - sometimes you can rig something like the HF $6 special with a piece of tubing (replace the pin with the tubing so you have a direct air path from the end of the tubing to your ears) so you're HEARING the noise rather than having the pin pick up metal vibration. As the man said, can't get along without tubing for vacuum leaks.
The mechanical scope didn't tell me anything. And yes, I definitely tightened the belt (old and new). Hell, I even tried some belt dressing on it. Nothing is slipping.
Water pump. I bet its the bearings. How may miles has the car got on it? While you're changing the water pump out, why not throw some UR pullys at it? Just an idea.
Car has 126k miles on it. It's the original WP. Mainly it's an issue of finding the time to do the job. Why do you think the bearing only sounds off between 1-2k rpms?
About the UR, I have a lightened pulley on my Spec-V, didn't seem to do much. Do they really work well for the SR20?
The water pump pully stops caviataion of the water pump at higher RPMS (the water pump no longer circulates). Its a good upgrade "while you're in there".
both belts were replaced, squeal still exists. I actually just did a 1500 mile roadtrip. The squealing is a little louder now (128k miles), and can be heard at 2200rpms now. I suppose it's just a timebomb.
blast from past thread - I have a similar problem right now, above idle the squealing is loud, I'm thinking water pump.. but i have no leaks as of yet.
I wish I had more time between now and Christmas, my next weekend is Christmas.. ugh. I still need to do shopping.. FML
__________________
1991 |black | SE-R
bridgestone potenza RE-11's | hypercoil gen ii springs | shortened koni struts | ST front sway bar | octotat 3 point RSTB | octotat 2 point FSTB | ad22vf calipers | carbotech pads | sr20ve | n1 cams | jk nemu rt | hotshot cai | ssac header | 2.5" mandrel bent exhaust | wrx STi muffler | jwt motor mounts |
blast from past thread - I have a similar problem right now, above idle the squealing is loud, I'm thinking water pump.. but i have no leaks as of yet.
I wish I had more time between now and Christmas, my next weekend is Christmas.. ugh. I still need to do shopping.. FML
Hmmmm....what about the alternator you just installed?
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
