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Go Back   SR20 Forum > Main Forums > SR20DE Technical Corner



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Old 10-03-2005, 06:57 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Another ticking problem...yes I searched.

Well, my car has a ticking problem at idle to around 2,000rpm's then it goes away. I searched the other day and came upon the How To: Remove upper timing chain guide so I decided to do it. I removed it and replaced the valve cover and EGR or w/e crap tubes back on. I start the car and let it idle then I still hear the ticking. It is pretty annoying. Now I doubt it is a spun rod bearing. I think it might be the timing because a few people have told me that. I bought the car recently and never checked the timing. I am going to advance it to 17* since I use 93 all the time and see if it resolves the problem. Does anyone have any other suggestions on what to try. Let me know. Thanks!
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Old 10-03-2005, 07:06 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Does it sound like lifter tick?
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Old 10-03-2005, 07:23 PM   #3 (permalink)
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In a way, it does. Maybe its normal? I looked under the VC and no rocker arms are out of place, thank god.
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Old 10-16-2005, 07:21 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Well, I met some cool guy from the upstate area he in NY and he listened to my car. I showed him the ticking and he said it sounds like valve tap. Now I am very concerned about this. I also was told my timing sounds to be very off so I am going to set my timing to 19* pretty soon. Could it possibly resolve any of the ticking not knowing if it is valve tap or what. I removed the upper timing chain guide and the ticking is still there. My car idles at about 500-600 rpm's when it is warmed up. Any suggestions will be appreciated. Alright, back to searching...
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Old 10-16-2005, 11:36 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I would not set your timing to 19*....the FSM calls for 15* BTDC +or- 2* so I would make sure it is set to 15*...the extra 2* of timing will not make that much difference and is the safer way to go. If you are positive the ticking is coming from the top of the motor it probably is the hydraulic lashers...you may want to pull them and re-prime them. And your idle should be adjusted to 750 rpm +- 50 rpm for an SR20DE (T).
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Old 10-17-2005, 12:38 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SentraDET
I would not set your timing to 19*....the FSM calls for 15* BTDC +or- 2* so I would make sure it is set to 15*...the extra 2* of timing will not make that much difference and is the safer way to go. If you are positive the ticking is coming from the top of the motor it probably is the hydraulic lashers...you may want to pull them and re-prime them. And your idle should be adjusted to 750 rpm +- 50 rpm for an SR20DE (T).
Looks like ^^you^^ are missing the link in your engine that wakes it up. Yes 15* is what FSM says. I (and everyone else here on the forum) run mine around 19-21*. You gain so much response for free. You have to run 91 octane, but I run 93 just to be safe. See if you can elimnate the cylinder it is happening on by unplugging the injectors one by one. When the noise stops, you know which one to check out.
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Old 10-17-2005, 03:11 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 93W91SER
Looks like ^^you^^ are missing the link in your engine that wakes it up. Yes 15* is what FSM says. I (and everyone else here on the forum) run mine around 19-21*. You gain so much response for free. You have to run 91 octane, but I run 93 just to be safe. See if you can elimnate the cylinder it is happening on by unplugging the injectors one by one. When the noise stops, you know which one to check out.
Here is what a "guy named Mike Kojima" has to say....ever heard of him?

Timing

Here is the all time cheapest hop up that anyone can do. Typically most SR20DEs have the timing set to 13 degrees or less from the factory. I have seen as low as 10 degrees on a brand new factory fresh car. You can safely run up to 15 degrees on regular gas on most SR20DEs. For best performance on a stock engine, put in 92 octane and dial in between 17 to 19 degrees. This has been proven by recent dyno testing on a stock car to give up to 6 more hp at the wheels. Remeber if you have your timing turned up this high you MUST use 92 octane fuel. Do not exceed 17 degress of advance if you have a JWT ECU.

Don’t tolerate any detonation though. Detonation will kill your engine quicker than lard and coconut oil will kill you! I am putting the detonation warning in here because the timing pointer on the engine can be easily bent which could cause you to accidentally over-advance your timing! It happened to me so be careful! If you have the JWT ECU, set the timing at 15 degrees. On the dyno I have not seen any difference between 15 and 17 degrees with a JWT ECU although bottom end snap might feel a little better. It is better to be safe at 15 than on the edge at 17 for only a perceived difference in throttle response. Be sure to disconnect the TPS when adjusting the timing and remember that the JWT NOS module requires that TPS terminal 1 and 2 be shorted out when setting the timing.
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Old 10-17-2005, 03:44 PM   #8 (permalink)
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^dude that article is pretty old. Lots of people have documented 21* as safe and effective. It still says 19 is cool.

W/ JWT ECU I think your supposed to set the distro at 15* and let the ecu decide.


SR heads are noisy. It still kinda freaks me out to this day.
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Old 10-24-2005, 08:04 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Well, I hope that it is just a normal ticking problem for an engine that has about 108,000 on it. The engine pulls VERY strong and I have been happy with it since the day I bought it. I just wanted to try and figure out what the ticking was so I know what to expect and know if there was a way to stop or prevent something bad from happening. I am going to advance my timing tomorrow with my buddy and since people have said 19* is safe I may try it and see how the engine responds.
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Old 10-24-2005, 08:13 PM   #10 (permalink)
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the ticking is a lifter if it only happens at 2000rpm and below. You should bleed and or replace the bad lifter. I would start with bleeding all the lifters then replace if the noise does not go away. here is a link to more information

http://www.jgycustoms.com/infolinks.htm
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Old 10-25-2005, 09:25 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I am going to have to look more into that. Just the thought of removing the cams freaks me out though, lol. Could that lead to engine failure or would I just have to live with the ticking for now?
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Old 10-25-2005, 09:50 PM   #12 (permalink)
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You can leave it alone for now, but why would you not want to bleed them? It is very easy, print out the cam install how-to in the tech library and get-r-dun. You can use the instructions on JGY's website for the bleeding process. http://www.jgycustoms.com/infolinks.htm
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Old 10-25-2005, 09:57 PM   #13 (permalink)
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The internet is just amazing. I just keep learning more and more, haha. I just don't have much time between school and work I get about 3-4 hours during the mornings on weekends to spend on the car and weekdays are just full. I'm going to have to pop the valve cover and see if that is the problem. Thanks for all the help guys.
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