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Disconnect the battery when working on any electrical components. This is one of those cases.
Remove the intake or just have it loose to get to the 2 14mm bolts that hold the starter in place. Position of starter bolts on the tranny housing
Jack the car up on jack stands
Little side note: The B13’s do not have the black V-plate.
Also, I DID NOT remove this plate, just got it loose so that there was room to take the starter out and put it back in.
Since you have the 2 long screws that hold the starter in place loose, you can remove the 2 connections to the starter. Connection (1) is a plug and the other is the connection (2) directly to the starter ..that one is a 12mm hex nut. (Connections 1 and 2)
The black V-plate is hard to miss but the bolts are a bit tricky to find. Locate bolts (1) and (2) with your fingers before you proceed to remove them. Bolt # 2 is easier to take out from the top so that could be done earlier in the process. It is located just below the IACV (idle air control valve) (Bolt 1) (Bolt 2)
The top bolts are actually hex nuts, 12 mm in size. Remove both of them. Then remove the remaining two bolts, (3) and (4) which are 14mm in size. (Bolts 3 and 4)
Removing these bolts allows room to remove the starter. It’s a bit tricky so you have to find some angels that will allow the starter to come out. New starter in place
Install the starter in reverse order that you took it out. When you have all of the connections made, plug the battery in and wait a sec to be sure that you did not connect anything wrong and that nothing is sparking that would cause a fire in your engine bay.
Turn that sucker over and jump for joy that you just saved yourself a few hundred dollars worth of labor!! YAY!!
Extra Info:
I purchased the starter from a place in Chicago that rebuilds starters and alternators. They are called http://www.canoautoelectric.com .
A new starter from pep-boys would have cost me $200 but I got this one for $120 with core charge. That’s the best price I could find and also the only starter for my car in the Chicago land area that was in stock.
For the 99 se-l, there are 2 kinds of starters available, Mitsubishi and Hitachi. Mitsu is less expensive and the Hitachi is about $20- $40 more. I do not know if they are the same or if they both fit. Someone else that knows can verify this.
Only do it from the bottom, way easier. That bracket comes off with a couple of bolts removed. Once you get that bracket out, you will have plenty of room to work.
On my old 200sx i took that Intake manifold bracket (V-Plate) off and threw it in the trash, it was such a b&^@%, and unnecessary. Becareful there are a few wire harnesses attatched to it.
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Jonathan Schultz
1997 200SX SE-R U13 Swap
2005 Toyota Avalon Limited
Man I just got done replacing that starter, what a pain. I also ended up tossing that v plate and it did not want to come out. I ended up taking off the headers just to remove that piece. After going through all that trouble my car still doesn't want to start. Do you think you guys can help me out here. I've searched already and am running out of ideas. I've already replaced the battery and did a full tune up. Thanks for your help guys.
Check all the fuses under the hood. I thought my starter was bad and it ended up being a simple 7.5amp fuse under the hood that blew thus disableing the ECU.
Thanks for the tip squeezinSE, I just did what you advised and the fuse for the engine control seemed fine. I also noticed that there was another one more towards the middle where mine was missing. Is that normal? So I decided to take the anti theft fuse which is rated the same at 7.5 amp stick it in the missing engine control location. After pushing down on the gas pedal for several seconds and working it, the car finally started. So just to make sure it was the missing fuse, I decided to take it out and try starting it again this time without pushing on the gas pedal. Guess what, it started right away without any hesitation this time. So my theory as of now is maybe its the coolant temperature sensor that is acting up when the car is cold. Also when I installed my aftermarket header I couldn't get the freakin' egr pipe to fit in the bung so I just plugged up the bung and chopped off the egr pipe and stuck a mini air filter in it. Few weeks later the filter came off but I figured it would be ok. Its been driving fine for around 12,000 miles like that up until last week. Could there be a clog in the egr somewhere u think? Well anyways thanks for your help and it would still be nice to know what is causing this car not to start intermittenly.
yay! pictures! i've been struggling for days trying to locate / order a new / replace the starter.
long story short, it looks like my 2 hour deadline just MIGHT get met if i really just go all out and bust my knuckles on this one for the next hour, i think i might be good.
though looking at the new starter, i only see two bolts that would hold it in place. the write-up talks about 4 bolts holding the starter (right?) in.. am i missin somethin?
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'95 200sx SE-R as of 6-15-07
Let the adventure begin
2 bolts on the starter ...... 4 bolts on the intake manifold support bracket.(the pain in the ass metal piece that is blocking the freak'n way to your starter) That is how I like to refer to it @ least.
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06 Frontier
low post count=working on cars more than computers
SR20deep Ct.
2 bolts on the starter ...... 4 bolts on the intake manifold support bracket.(the pain in the ass metal piece that is blocking the freak'n way to your starter) That is how I like to refer to it @ least.
but yea.... now i've got those 4 bolts out, and its just dangling there by a bracket thats attached to the wiring harness......and i can't get that bastadge off
P.S. thanks for confirming its only 2 bolts on the starter as i thought....had it been 4....i'd blew a few, in a bad way.....having gotten the wrong starter
UGH!!!!!!! i wanna just chew off that damn plastic bracket!
i can't figure out how to get the metal flap out of it. stupid stupid stupid thing. me, not the bracket. the bracket is the most simple thing ever. i've seen audio technicians go AWOL on them with a screwdriver before until they just fall apart.
at any rate, this is the biggest bracket/clip for a piece of wiring harness i've ever dealt with, and the flap sticking into this clip holding it onto the support structure for the intake manifold, is needless to say just as strong metal as the support beam itself
UGH!!!!!!! i wanna just chew off that damn plastic bracket!
i can't figure out how to get the metal flap out of it. stupid stupid stupid thing. me, not the bracket. the bracket is the most simple thing ever. i've seen audio technicians go AWOL on them with a screwdriver before until they just fall apart.
at any rate, this is the biggest bracket/clip for a piece of wiring harness i've ever dealt with, and the flap sticking into this clip holding it onto the support structure for the intake manifold, is needless to say just as strong metal as the support beam itself
Reach up there with a pair of wire cutters and cut the back of the plasic clip(or if you can, just squeeze it enough to fit back through the hole) if you do cut it use a zip tie to put it back on. I never reinstall the support bracket after I get it off. I have my own design to support the IM and it does not get in the way of anything. I was just thinking.... if the support is just dangleing there you may have enough room to squeeze the starter by........ BUT PLEASE MAKE SURE YOUR BATTERY IS DISCONNECTED.
EDIT- I'm having a bitch of a time finding the two bolts that physically hold the starter in, i've done EVERYTHING else, and i need this starter off in 20 minutes ><
battery is disco'd, i always do that...damn that clip....i got tired of f'n with it, i dont have time for that...with a forum members help....i decided to use a lighter and a screw driver and as he put it "cut, smash, bang, DESTROY" the clip to get the bracket off. so now i'm burnt and have a DESTROYed harness clip, but so long as i dont put that STUPID STUPID bracket back on, then it doesn't have anything to clip onto, so i'm good....spare parts, waste of production time and cost on their part...i've noticed quite a few genius designs in this car, particularly, wiring and hoses.....good god.... then you've got their cooling system which i have yet to figure out. what stumped me about the cooling system was that "When removing intake manifold, drain engine coolant" WHAT!? *Set haynes manual on fire* Screw that noise. i'm going off on a tangent again..... yea, i set that clip on fire and then stabbed it to death with a screwdriver..
i really honestly can't even see my starter with that damned thing on there. maybe i'm blind. but....can i pretty please not put this bracket back on. lmao, i hate stuff like this, including most "heat" shields. if there isn't anything NEAR the source of "heat" then why put a 45lb cast iron block there. that was my civic though....this is a whole new ballgame, this is 45 lbs of thin, widely spaced heat shielding all over this car... *roll eyes* gimme a break, if we didn't make undercarriages out of plastic then wheres the problem with an exhuast system creating heat... i mean, every other (older, newer, american, import) doesn't have a problem with having just pipes and not all these clamps and plates, and wrappings....the things factory!! sry....i could rant for a few hours, and i've only had this car for like 2 weeks. i'm lovin it. or at least will be, once i get this starter in.
"You wanna know why your neighbors were scared of you working on your car? Because at the time it was involving an axe handle!" ~dakrakhed
Last edited by GateCrasher_VI; 07-03-2007 at 11:38 AM.
YAY! Finally got it! not sure because i didn't see it above, but for future reference to save people some searching.
To get to the starter bolts
Just look for them behind and under your distributor with intake tube, MAF, and airbox removed, i didn't have to rip out a single hose to reach them, i can honestly say, physically removing the starter (taking out its bolts) was BY FAR the easiest part to this job
Goo d to see you got it apart.... now putting the bolt back into the strarted.... if you have someone help you just start the bolts into the started while you are under the car holding the starter in place this will help A LOT.
On my old 200sx i took that Intake manifold bracket (V-Plate) off and threw it in the trash, it was such a b&^@%, and unnecessary. Becareful there are a few wire harnesses attatched to it.
WORD... i hate that thing its like 10 lbs too
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1993 B13 SE-R!!!! | SR20VE Daily
1996 D21 4x4!!!!!!! | KA24E Bike Hauler
1998 200sx SE-R | SR20DE S3R'd For Sale!!!!
1991 NX-TuRBO | SR20DET Parted Out
1993 NX2000!!!!!!!! | SR20DE Sold
1993 B13 SE-R!!!! | SR20DET Parted Out
1995 240sx BaSe | VQ30DET Sold
1991 240sx SE!!!!! | KA24DE Sold
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