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Old 09-30-2006, 03:00 PM   #21 (permalink)
zerosin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeenSense
How much is all of this going to cost?
Well, the necessary bit is the bearings, that's about $180 for parts (front and rear bearings for the input and main shaft, plastic oil guides for the shaft bearings, input shaft seal and axle seals) and $100-180 for labor. I gotta get the tools to do bearings and shaft rebuilds on my own. Since the tranny is off and I have 108k miles on the car I figured I'd put a new clutch in and replace the release fork since it's been wearing on the TOB in absence of proper lubrication. I figure that will be about $300-320 with getting the flywheel resurfaced. The Phantom Grip will be about $220.

That's about $900 on the high end which is about the limit of my budget. Otherwise I'd go for a better clutch setup or a lightweight flywheel. The first Nissan dealer I called wanted $1,400 to put new bearings in, including removing the tranny. Most of the other tranny shops in town gave me the impression they didn't want to open my tranny up and kept trying to talk me into getting a used tranny. I couldn't find a used locking tranny in the US and the CA ones were about $700-900 just for the tranny which may very well have the same bearing problem at some point. Not to mention they wouldn't ship to me. Non-locking transaxles went from $300-800 depending on the milage and I'd have to get a new driver side axle for a minimum of $100. So I got ambitious.

So I figure by doing this myself I found out that the only problem with my tranny was one failed front input shaft bearing and that the rest of the tranny, that I took very good care of, is still good. Who knows what I'd get used, some people are just plain mean to their cars. And I basically got a free clutch and Phantom Grip out of it. Of course I could have just fixed the tranny and slapped the old parts back in and saved some money but why pass up the chance to perk things up a bit. I was preparing to spend about a grand anyway, and most of that on labor and not parts.

(Yes this is the speech you use with your significant other when they want you to cheap out because this happens at the same time the mortgage payment is due. )

After I get everything back together, we'll see if my optimism was well placed.
I've been sick for the past week so my thinking may be screwy. I think the name of that cough syrup was Purple Haze
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Last edited by zerosin : 09-30-2006 at 03:05 PM.
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Old 10-11-2006, 08:52 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Closure.

What ~$900 gets me.

-New input and mainshaft (front and back) bearings including oil guides and having them pressed on.
-Exedy OEM PP and Japan OEM disc
-release fork, TO bearing, right and left axle seals and input shaft seal
-JGY LSD

What $1,400 would have got me from the dealer.

-New bearings in the tranny.

My green machine is purring again. Everything works great and the rainy day was well welcomed as I powered around the corners with no torque steer and awesome traction. I'm glad I kept my VLSD tranny and just replaced the bearings. Especially since you B13/14 guys bought all the darn VLSD trannys for my poor B15.
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Old 10-11-2006, 09:52 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Good to hear you got everything in. Very informative thread.
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Old 10-11-2006, 10:58 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Yes, good thread indeed. I have run into the same problem on both my nissan and honda manual transmissions. Problem looks to be that the input bearing is always the farthest from the oil, and takes a lot of load. Sometimes the bearing cage comes apart, other times the surface inside gets damaged.

One time I had that same noise in my turbo se-r, so I assumed it was the bearing. To my surprise I discovered my clutchnet disc was worn out where the hub springs sit. That made the disc very rattley and loud @ idle with the clutch pedal up!
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Old 10-12-2006, 08:45 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Glad I could post some good knowledge here. It was a great experience to work on the gear box and figure out how everything worked. All in all the sr20 B15 is a really easy car to work on, it's managed to stave off rust a weather well, though a few splash guard bolts got their heads twisted off. I did have to work a bit on the snap ring on the reverse idler shaft and use a slide hammer to pull it out.

While under the car I noted that a block-back exhaust setup my be needed by next summer. May as well do the header if you do everything else right. Now if I can just find a kit...
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Old 10-15-2006, 08:24 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Is it automatic or Manual? Sounds like its a flyweel, my ford did that once.
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Old 10-16-2006, 08:14 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Is it automatic or Manual? Sounds like its a flyweel, my ford did that once.
Manual. You read the rest of the post, right?
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Old 06-14-2007, 01:12 AM   #28 (permalink)
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i have a noise coming from my tranny but its more of a grind its very low in 1st and 2nd but third its loud sometimes and sometimes not until you bring it over 4krpm the third gear noise was there before i put in the new clutch act hd sprung but its got worse after the new clutch the third gear pops out should i get a new tranny our is it something i dont know that might be minor if you can help me please im me
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Old 06-15-2007, 01:28 AM   #29 (permalink)
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does nebody have an idea why my thrid gear grinds and pops out when i dont hold the shifter what can i do to fix the problem
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