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if you have a manual sentra/200sx, and a 99-01 g20 pedal, you should not have to do any mods to mount the pedal save the removal of the ugly rolled sheemetal standoff I show in my pics. If there is anything different than that, I'd like to see it. Pics please!!
if you have a GA based car, I guess it could be different, but IIRC there is only one pedal available for B14 manuals regardless of the engine.
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98 SE with a B15/P11 trans and hydraulic clutch... SOLD =..(
update: tried one 3/8" spacer on the pedal last night and still nothing. i'm going to try 2 spacers tonight and hopefully that will work. after that, i'm at a loss as to what it could be. ill post pics of what im doing tonigt
trans not bolted tight
wrong flywheel/pp/clutch/ground too small flywheel
--->too thick of any of these can cause TOO MUCH engagement
diaphragm fingers bent/broken/not designed right
pressure plate not fully secure/ crooked
wrong TB bearing
worn TB bearing
worn/broken slave arm
TB clips
marred input shaft (tb bearing binds)
worn slave cylinder
air in the lines
leaking lines/junctions/reservoir
wrong fluid
dampener installed backwards (don't think this could cause a problem, but possibly)
reservoir not full
spacer not installed
M/C not properly adjusted
bad connection between pedal and M/C
wrong pedal (not enough play in the pedal to disengage)
worn synchros in transmission
too much play in pedal (push on diaphragm so hard that the fingers contact the clutch hub and re-engage just enough I've actually done this with my cable clutch)
shift mechanism messed up/not properly connected
a combination of any of these
I tried to be as comprehensive as possible. go through all of this and VERIFY it. do not just assume it is right. V-E-R-I-F-Y it. start with the easy to check stuff, then, if it gets ugly and you have to tear down, so be it. I think I listed them in the reverse order. sorry
trans not bolted tight
wrong flywheel/pp/clutch/ground too small flywheel
--->too thick of any of these can cause TOO MUCH engagement
diaphragm fingers bent/broken/not designed right
pressure plate not fully secure/ crooked
wrong TB bearing
worn TB bearing
worn/broken slave arm
TB clips
marred input shaft (tb bearing binds)
worn slave cylinder
air in the lines
leaking lines/junctions/reservoir
wrong fluid
dampener installed backwards (don't think this could cause a problem, but possibly)
reservoir not full
spacer not installed
M/C not properly adjusted
bad connection between pedal and M/C
wrong pedal (not enough play in the pedal to disengage)
worn synchros in transmission
too much play in pedal (push on diaphragm so hard that the fingers contact the clutch hub and re-engage just enough I've actually done this with my cable clutch)
shift mechanism messed up/not properly connected
a combination of any of these
I tried to be as comprehensive as possible. go through all of this and VERIFY it. do not just assume it is right. V-E-R-I-F-Y it. start with the easy to check stuff, then, if it gets ugly and you have to tear down, so be it. I think I listed them in the reverse order. sorry
Trans is on tight, Clutch disc, pressure plate and flywheel are fine/secured, release bearing is correct size and in proper functioning condition, tb clips are brand new, slave arm is fine, slave and master cylinder are brand new from nissan/infiniti, no air in lines(bled probably a half quart through the system), no leaks in the lines, dot 3 fluid, no dampener(read some 240 guys remove it to make pedal feel better), reservoir is full, slave spacer installed, m/c adjusted for maximum fluid flow, clevis pin is tight between the pedal and m/c, 2001 g20 pedal so it should work with the g20 m/c, synchros work(drove and shifted with synchros and no grinding), not too much play in the pedal to cause fingres to touch disc because i cannot get any kind of disengagement regardless of pedal position up and down, shifts fine when car is turned off.
The only one i am not sure of is the input shaft. i didnt change over the bushing but the motor has ~40k on it so it should be fine and there is no noise when i push the pedal in. Im will try it without the spacer on the slave, but it didnt have any effect last time i tried, but ill try again.
yet another update: I took the spacer out from behind the slave and still nothing. Looked at the pedal and at all the way down, the m/c rod is about 1/4" from being all the way into the m/c. My thought is that the t/o bearing somehow came off the input shaft and rotated about 90* and the release fork is going around the t/o bearing rather than pushing against it. I may just take it into a shop and have iot done because i have been working 20+ hours of overtime a week to get ahead of some bills. Also, here is the pics to what i did to the pedal, to no avail. http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t...0/P8012034.jpg http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t...0/P8012033.jpg
dont have any pics, but the clevis(?) is at the very end of the m/c rod. I don't think it is the pedal throw anymore because I push the pedal down to the floor and there is maybe 1/4" of rod left before it is completely inside of the m/c. I'm going to try and get to taking the trans off this next week and hopefully the t/o bearing just came loose or something simple. Otherwise, i think im going to go back to cable if I dont find anything wrong. I've been riding my bike 6+ miles each way to work for 60 hours a week for the last 3 weeks and i am wishing I had my car to drive at least a couple days a week.
Update: Well guys, I finally got a chance to work on the car and I'm off to a great start . I got the wheels off and went to drain the gear oil and somehow the drain plug was on there so tight (impact wouldn't even budge it)from last time that I broke my 1/2" to 3/8" converter with a 14" breaker bar. Broke the nub with the ball bearing off in the 14mm hex socket. I've determined that my garage is the testing ground for Murphy's law. Anything that can go wrong(in my garage) can and will go wrong. Also I am contemplating going back to cable if I pull the transmission off and nothing appears to be wrong with the T/O bearing or the pressure plate. Might get a chance to work on it again Tuesday. Wish me luck.
Finally got the trans off and everything was fine, so I went back to cable and everything works fine now, so im really not sure what went wrong. So if anyone is looking to do this swap or needs spare parts for your P11 i have a brand new slave cylinder, new master cylinder, reservoir and hose, the spacer and bolts, the dampener, p11 clutch pedal, and some braided and rubber hoses to connect it all. I will be posting this stuff up in the classifieds here pretty soon.
hey guys, ive read this thread through and through have a pretty good understanding of what i need to do, if someone could verify these things would be great...
i have a b13, im gonna for sure put a P11 lsd in it since i just blew up tranny after 5000 kms...if i use the tranny, and clutch pedal/master/slave/resevoir/etc misc parts all from a 2001 p11 i should have to do nothing other than the following
1. the hole for the master/mounting.
2. the grinding of the shifter rod/stabilizer rod
as far as i understand if i have a parts car, or every piece from the same car, i should be able to do this whole swap. If there is anything else i am overlooking can you pros who have done it already please let me know! *** i need this tranny, and was fed up with the clutch cable stretching on my b13 with the heavy duty pressure plate i have (act)...its only when you are using the tranny and want to keep your cable setup where you have to mod the trans right? and this write up was done to use hydro parts but keep your b13 trans correct?
these are just things i would like to clear up, any answers would be great, *** as far from those 2 things at the top i cant see what else i am overlooking? i wouldnt have to swap switches on the clutch pedal, aside from getting lines made up (least of my worries), because i am going with the whole setup from a p11....also to clear it up i already have b13 lsd tras, so i already have the right axles to use in a p11 lsd trans
thanks boys, this is gonna be my fun winter project, god damn trans barely lasted the break in of my motor haha,
Below is a pm chain between me and nismosigma that I'd thought I'd post. anyone have any info to help out on this?
hopefully nismosigma will post his results here too, but it would be nice if we could get some support here for him first!
Quote:
Originally Posted by 98SE(-R)
Quote:
Originally Posted by nismosigma
Hey i have most of the parts to do this im just missing the clutch pedal. Im using all p11 parts. Would it be okay to use a b15 clutch pedal assembley or would that not work?
Quote:
Originally Posted by 98SE(-R)
If I recall, it will not work. The mounting and position of the pedal does not match up at all with the B14 chassis/pedal layout. Im pretty sure that is referenced in one of the threads I linked to in my thread.
Good luck and post back to my thread with your results!
Quote:
Originally Posted by nismosigma
Ive seen the b15 pedal in a b14 using all b15 parts it will work, i was wondering more about if the p11 master cylinder will work with the b15 pedal. I cant find a solid answer on that and someone also told me an altima pedal will work!
Quote:
Originally Posted by 98SE(-R)
I would like to see pics of a B15 MC/Dampner unit fit between the firewall and wheel well. Besides the different mounting points and clutch pedal location, I was always told the MC was too big to fit.
Regarding the B15 pedal/P11 MC combo, I do not have direct experience with this. I can speculate, but there are a few IFs:
If the mounting points on the B15 pedal match up with the P11 MC.
If the MC rods are the same length and mount to the pedal in the same way
If the ratio between MC and slave bores is the same between the P11 and B15*, then the stroke of the MC rod will be the same. However, the pedal length may be different and reqire more/ less pedal movement to engage/disengage.
*I can almost guarantee this is true, as the B15 trans I got had the slave still attached and it was the same part as the P11 part i ordered.
So, if the two parts will physically mount up to each other, mechanically, they should work just fine.
Can I post this message in a thread? I think it would be worthwhile to make it public.
Quote:
Originally Posted by nismosigma
yes go ahead and post it,I like spreading info. I will try to find the pictures of the b15 pedal mounted.
I think maybe i was thinking of fitting a B14 pedal in a B13 car, when i talked about not fitting in plane with the other pedals. I know for sure that I was told that a B15 MC/damper unit wouldn't fit in the B14, otherwise I wouldn't have gone to the trouble of getting P11 parts.
After reading the writeup, I'd try to find a P11 pedal first. It's almost bolt-on and pedal alignment is perfect. The B15 pedal requires quite a bit of guesswork, and from the pics, the pedal alignment looks a bit off (no offense to the guy that did it).
pedal alignment is distance from the other pedals, angle, and if it is in-plane with the other pedals. Its pretty important.
I see what your saying about the alignment being a little off but I would be fine with actually it doesnt look too bad, plus I cant find a p11 pedal at all and the b15 is available from nissan.
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I've actually done this with my cable clutch)
. I got the wheels off and went to drain the gear oil and somehow the drain plug was on there so tight (impact wouldn't even budge it)from last time that I broke my 1/2" to 3/8" converter with a 14" breaker bar. Broke the nub with the ball bearing off in the 14mm hex socket. I've determined that my garage is the testing ground for Murphy's law. Anything that can go wrong(in my garage) can and will go wrong. Also I am contemplating going back to cable if I pull the transmission off and nothing appears to be wrong with the T/O bearing or the pressure plate. Might get a chance to work on it again Tuesday. Wish me luck.
