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i am getting to the final stages of my build, oil pans are on, rockers in, bout to install cams now to button up the top end.
i tossed on the crank pulley and went to turn it slightly just to re-align for TDC to install the cams, gears, and everything else.
it was very difficult to turn, forceful even.
it is a det block, and de head. also vvl head gasket.
arp studs.
everything else is built to spec. i even used the stock grade bearings, as opposed to everyones suggestion of going one grade tighter.
i hear tighter is better than loose for boost.
i also know the effects of expansion from heat.
but i also know the bearings have that groove for a continuos feed of oil.
i dont know. kinda stressed, so close after 2yrs of building to run into issues at the end.
*** reading myself theorize i suppose.
the timing was correct when i installed the oil pump (ve)
you kinda had to snap the wrench when it was a short block, but then it spun freely.
the chain is still zip tied to the side of the motor holding its place, so no, i didnt rotate it at all.
yes, but, even though the pans are on and head is on....there is no compression just yet, and the chain isnt installed. it should still act like a short block...no?
Have you got it yet? Do you have the spark plugs in? The cams are out, right?If the spark plugs are in, you will have compression and it will feel like its trying to lock up. You're compressing 2 cylinders at a time since ALL of the valves are shut. If the spark plugs are out, it should feel like it did when it was a short block.
Let us know how it goes. Dont loose your timing though. Your timing chain should have shinny links to i.d. the timing marks.
Good Luck. SR builds are fun
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I saw a Lambo once, it was in my rear view getting smaller.. go figure
sounds like your ok, a short block would be hard on the first rotation just from the oil and everything sitting on the bearings but would crank easy once it was moved so you sound good there.
and if you havent rotated it yet and the timing is dead on like you say then i bet your fine. just be aware that though the tensioner clicks out when installed it is a HYDROLOIC tensioner which means if you rotate the engine (and you should) then make sure to keep a good eye on your timing because it CAN jump. Rotate everything slow and see that its working smothly and triple check engine timing.
ok check this out buddy.. if from what i read if i understand it correctly (i may not) but if your timing chain is NOT installed and your head is bolted on with cams an valves all installed ect. and your spining the crank.. your prolly bending some valves... i've never tore apart an sr motor an tried this.. but i know on my datsun l20b motor and toyota 22r motors if you have the head bolted on an no timing chain an you spin the crank it will bend valves for sure.. just a thought man like i said i might not be correct an may not understand these motors as well as the rest of you guys.. but i've seen it happen on other motors.
also if the chan is installed on the crank sprocket it could be binding up aswell.. had that problem on a ka24de
good luck man!
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91 se-r engine swap in progress
92 se-r wrecked an bein stripped
92 e/xe or whatever 1.6 auto (gf's whip now)
77 datsun 620
Last edited by lynchfourtwenty : 05-07-2008 at 05:25 PM.
Have you got it yet? Do you have the spark plugs in? The cams are out, right?If the spark plugs are in, you will have compression and it will feel like its trying to lock up. You're compressing 2 cylinders at a time since ALL of the valves are shut. If the spark plugs are out, it should feel like it did when it was a short block.
Let us know how it goes. Dont loose your timing though. Your timing chain should have shinny links to i.d. the timing marks.
Good Luck. SR builds are fun
the spark plugs are not installed yet.
the cams are not installed yet
the timing is set per the FSM at the marks starting with the one on the oil pump/crank gear
was getting to the cams when i went to line up the crank at TDC as it had moved slightly when installing the pully.
this is where i ran into the issues.
this build "is" fun, i've learned a great deal thus far and continue to learn!
Quote:
Originally Posted by dxpxe
sounds like your ok, a short block would be hard on the first rotation just from the oil and everything sitting on the bearings but would crank easy once it was moved so you sound good there.
and if you havent rotated it yet and the timing is dead on like you say then i bet your fine. just be aware that though the tensioner clicks out when installed it is a HYDROLOIC tensioner which means if you rotate the engine (and you should) then make sure to keep a good eye on your timing because it CAN jump. Rotate everything slow and see that its working smothly and triple check engine timing.
yeah, like i said, when it was short block i just kinda "popped" the crank with the wrench on it, then it spun fairly easy.
no longer the case.
i read about the tensioner in the FSM, thanx for the heads up.
once all is installed, i will count links to check that all is timed! 4sure!!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Loek
As far as I understand, no cams are in yet ?
that is correct my good man!
Quote:
Originally Posted by lynchfourtwenty
ok ya he's About to install cams.. well like i said i may not have read it correctly.. im not dislexic but sometimes it seems like it
so i guess the only other thing i can think of is if he has the chain attatched to the crank sprocket it could be binding up.. other then that idk
dude, im a little slow some times too. no worries.
thanx for the vote of confidence!
well, after alot of discussion, some research, more discussion and research... i concluded i needed to disassemble the bottom end loosen and re-torque the crank bolts.
the FSM states on DET application, if an angle wrench is not available then after initail "stretch" torque, again torque to 62-84 ft lbs.
i started at 62 which was too loose and worked my way up, ending at 73 as a desireable torque in reference to ability to turn the crank.
i hope this is ok as i am using ARP studs, and 80 was too tight.
im am still uncertain to what they were torqued to, and dont know how they got so tight, but all seems well now!
Leon,
Go to Autozone and get one of those angle wrench things. I got one for myself and it was < $20 (I still have it if you feel like coming by and picking it up). All it really is is an adapter that goes between the breaker bar and the socket. You snap it on and give it a reference point then crank the bolts down. It's a must for doing any bolts in the bottom end of the block.
Also so you know the bottom end is going to be considerably tighter than it was before you freshened it up. It should turn but you have to think the bearings need a break in period for a reason (to break them in.. hehe).
Get an angle wrench and loosen everything up then torque it down correctly and see where you stand.
