gfx2043

Well i swaped a sr20 into a mgb, and after much hard ship getting a 62 ecu from japan star motor that worked, i finaly got it started, again. (checked for spark a couple days ago and no luck none that I could see) originaly it started right up idled ok but wouldn't spin up much past 2500 rpm and only to 2500 if it us ethe throttle just right, felt like fuel issue. now with the new ecu it starts hard if at all. and if it does I can't make it run above 1500 or so even with the throttle. It shakes violently at idle, seams to be running on 2 or 3 cylinders, I can smell a slight amount of unburnt fuel when it runs also. Noticed one of the MAF plug pins wasnt in all the way so I pushed it in and now it wont start maby a coinsidence, heck it didnt want to run before so maby I flooded it. I'm changing the plugs tonight, could it be a bad temp sensor? Also how do I test the stock maf? One would assume that the ignitor is ok and the ecu since it ran, and it is rare that a transistor works intermidently how ever I well also ckeck all 4 in the ignitor to make sure they work.

busterkid70

i would probably solder on a new maf connector and also if it seems like it's running on 2-3 cylinders, then i would check the fuel injector connectors. i've seen those have loose connections before where the wires aren't pushed in all the way. but if it's not reving past 1500, it sounds like a maf problem.

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Pretty White

Check the idle control valve and the auxilary bypas valve.

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gfx2043

does any one have or know where to get a new maf plug???

gfx2043

ok maf is good and i fount the cause I only get spark on cylinder 2. the ecu is a g90 code on the board and a 62 on the case so it should be good .

blkbird

It seems like always with the IAC valve. I did two JDM swap, that 124 bucks valve solve the problem on all two occasions.

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madoutb13

u might want to check ur fuel pressure...maybe 2 much fuel ..ive had that problem

gfx2043

I found the problem, the plug that goes into the ecu was corroded and wasn't sending the ignition signals to the ignitor, I cleaned them up and bam it ran like a camp. now I have one of the fastest mgb out there. to top the cake the bov and turbo sounds fantastic.
P.S. it was only running on 1 cylinder #2 and not 3# so it got me thinking and thats how i traced the problem because 2 & 3 fire at the same time.

Old guy

post some pics. Did it fit under the hood? What did you do for exhaust? Watch for broken rear axles. You may need to go to a double bearing setup for them.

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gfx2043

I'll try to get some pics tonight on here. the axles are good I know that one, one of the guys in my club has been pushing 243WHP for a few years now with out any issues (open diff). It did fit under the hood but you have to cut the crossmember just the same as a 302 swap. I made the motor mount brackets for the sr to use the mg stock mounts. the trans crossmember I welded the sr section into it, and the driver fire wall i had to notch 2" on each side to give about 1.5-2" clearance on the exhaust down pipe (downpipe is a mix of the stock one and a some new welded pipe for clearance). also I had the exhaust shop bend the 2.5" pipe to the same as the stock and it fits perfect! There where a few more things like I had to make a bracket to relocate the shifter by 1" and you have to run the alternator on the left side, so I made a new bracket from the old sr ones and a mig welder. If any one needs any information on the swap I'll be glad to help out. As this is a fantastic up grade to make the car feel like a true sports car. The 0-60 is in the 5-6 sec range now in stock form and 7psi of boost. The diffuculity on a scale of 1-10 rates a 7, and most auto savy guys well have the tools on hand.