no cold start and idles at 950-1000 jap sr20de help - Page 2 - SR20 Forum
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Old 10-29-2010, 06:56 PM   #21 (permalink)
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timing light + consult cable -> use base idle test (free conzult software has it) and set timing, adjust idle screw if required and check timing again

think there is a way to do it without consult cable, but given all the problems you're having, you should get a consult cable.
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Old 10-31-2010, 09:33 PM   #22 (permalink)
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ok bro thanks ill keep u posted
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Old 11-15-2010, 05:02 AM   #23 (permalink)
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ok bro i wired over the car changed the injectors from the green to the red stock de injectors changed the intake manifold gasket and i also cleaned out the intake manifold itself but when i started the ecu was doing a bunch of weird stuff so i changed to a automatic ecu *** i had laying around it still had no cold start but once warmed up it srarted better than the previous ecu when i push the clutch in it seams to idel high maybe the tps needs adjusting? anyways everthing points to the ecu *** do u think?p.s i get no more hunting so i believe all vaccume lines are hooked up
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Old 11-15-2010, 06:21 AM   #24 (permalink)
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until you get the consult cable, check what the ECU is reading, its all guessing.
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Old 11-15-2010, 05:34 PM   #25 (permalink)
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i dont have a consult cable i have a scan tool i can borrow *** do u think i should look for when i hook up the scan tool to the car? in other words what would you of done?
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Old 11-15-2010, 06:12 PM   #26 (permalink)
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1) check error codes
2) check TPS voltage (i know you have manually, but that wont tell you if ECU is getting that signal)
3) check 'Closed Throttle' switch and ensure its on(closed) when throttle closed and open when its not
4) check AAC value is fairly low (<30) on warm idle
5) check coolant temp sensor starts at air temp when cold, and warms up correctly with motor
6) watch ECU ignition timing at idle - generally if the ECU thinks the car is idling too high it will lower timing - but some people with high idle issues etc will see timing is solid at 15deg, and combined with closed throttle switch saying throttle is open, made ECU think it wasnt 'idling' hence it didnt keep idle low.
7) check actual timing via the base idle/timing mode to lock the adjustments (otherwise timing moves all over the place), and see that its correct with a timing gun
8) check other switches/sensors to see what changes when you put the clutch in if this affects idle

im sure theres more things that could be tested, but thatd be a start.
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Old 11-15-2010, 07:08 PM   #27 (permalink)
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THANK YOU SO MUCH YOU REALLY ARE THE ONLY PERSON HELPING ME ok well 1st thing i think ill change the ecu to a later model which uses the plastic maf i currently use the metal maf also the biggest problem im having above all others is after i used a bottle redline fuel injector cleaner my car started to act weird
so now after driving for about 20 -30 mins my car will die down the tach will get all screwy and the car will all of a sudden shoot forward it more like a rough jerk i cant seem to figure it out if i put the car in nuetral it will die out i really think its the o2 sensor since this only happened after i use the redline cleaner to further back my theory i disconnected the o2 sensor when the engine was warm and my idle was the same is that normal
ill try everthing u said thanks again
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Old 02-25-2013, 12:38 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Regarding the coolant temperature sensor, in that area I see the blue plug maybe a 19mm socket size and also a small black one like 10mm with 2 wires running out of it. I'm guessing the blue one is the sensor itself, but what about the other one? Is it recommended to replace both of them?

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Old 02-25-2013, 01:10 PM   #29 (permalink)
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2 wire sensor is for ECU, single wire sensor is for cluster "gauge" (which is more of an "indicator" than a gauge).
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Old 02-26-2013, 12:39 AM   #30 (permalink)
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So are they both considered "coolant temperature sensors" ?
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