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Old 01-17-2011, 10:38 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Valve cover gasket is about $20, so not to bad, I can figure that out, but what kind of car has the same gaskets or parts.... most 94 Sentra SE-R parts don't fit, & most places have no idea what a SR20DET is or a Bluebird (its a 90), the O2 sensor is from a 91 G20 same with the alternator, think the gaskets should be from a 91 G20 too?
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Old 01-18-2011, 08:10 AM   #22 (permalink)
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I think the valve cover gasket is the same for all FWD sr20's. The se-r gasket should work just as well as the G20 gasket.

Glad to hear its trying to start again! looks like you're making progress.
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Old 01-18-2011, 03:35 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Well got new plugs, and it started, for a second. It was running really rich, plugs were black! Lots of oil in the #4 cylinder, so I'm worried it could be something bad, broken cam shaft maybe?
I gotta pull the valve cover to check that too, so thats my next step, I guess. Not too happy about it, but can't afford to do much else.
The cover is coming off shortly, so any info on what kind of things I should be looking for or checking would be greatly appriciated.
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Old 01-18-2011, 09:37 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Ok, so your old plugs were black when you pulled them? or did your new plugs turn black after starting for a second? were the plugs covered with black carbon build-up? or were they covered black oil?

a broken camshaft is almost out of the question, as it will not cause an oil leak per se.

was there actually oil in the cylinder or just the spark plug tube?

lots of oil in the #4 spark plug tube means you have a bad valve cover o-ring (if it leaked around the spark plug).

if you noticed oil in the cylinder itself it could mean you have a worn valve guide (which would allow oil from the head to leak into the combustion chamber when the valve is opened). BUT if there was a lot of oil in the tube already, it will have leaked into the cylinder when you changed the plugs.

the spark plug tube O-ring is more likely.


Make sure you don't have any PCV lines hooked up to boosted tubing.
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Old 01-19-2011, 04:18 PM   #25 (permalink)
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So took of the valve cover, and everything looked good, so put it back on and it started right up, vac leak around a seal that needed to be reseated? It has a bad tune, and burns a little oil but is boosting at 14 and feels good so far. I'm not gonna push it, just took it around the block to see if it's ok.
Downside is, 2 of the 10mm bolts twisted in half when trying to take of the cover.... how do I even go about fixing that? it seems good, but needs to be fixed. half of them is in the lower part of the bolt housing and the top half is gone.
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Old 01-19-2011, 07:02 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dextersdarkside View Post
So took of the valve cover, and everything looked good, so put it back on and it started right up, vac leak around a seal that needed to be reseated? It has a bad tune, and burns a little oil but is boosting at 14 and feels good so far. I'm not gonna push it, just took it around the block to see if it's ok.
Downside is, 2 of the 10mm bolts twisted in half when trying to take of the cover.... how do I even go about fixing that? it seems good, but needs to be fixed. half of them is in the lower part of the bolt housing and the top half is gone.
if part of the bolt shaft is protruding, you can use vice-grip pliers to lock onto it and twist it out.


if you can't get vise-grips to work, you can use a drill bit of a smaller diameter (as small as possible) to drill into the center of the broken bolt shafts. the bit will eventually snag or bind on the bolt. when it does, pop the drill into reverse and wind it out.
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Old 01-20-2011, 01:10 PM   #27 (permalink)
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did you over torque the valve cover bolts? is that why they broke. it only needs about 8ft lbs of torque. correct me if i'm wrong.
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Old 01-20-2011, 02:16 PM   #28 (permalink)
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if you can't get vise-grips to work, you can use a drill bit of a smaller diameter (as small as possible) to drill into the center of the broken bolt shafts. the bit will eventually snag or bind on the bolt. when it does, pop the drill into reverse and wind it out.
I recommend doing this, and if you have the resources $3 and a trip to a local hardware store (Menards) I know for a fact has reverse threaded drill bits, that cut backwards, so as you are drilling into the center of the bolt, once it bites, it will twist the bolt out in the direction that its already spinning.

Start yourself with a small bit for a pilot hole (a regualar forward bit is fine for this) then use a slightly larger reverse threaded bit to extract the broken bolt.

I picked up a 4 bit set from Menards, the set is called "The Tool Shop." It has served me well for the past 2 years. The price is in the $3-$5 range.
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Old 01-22-2011, 03:59 AM   #29 (permalink)
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thanks! and no they weren't over torqued, just old I guess, broke coming out. It seems fine, but again I'm not really driving it. I found someone to buy it for 4k so, its running long enough to sell, and he knows it's issues and wants a project. Time for a more reliable car, trying to keep the nissan power though, wishing for a R35 Talking to a guy with a boosted P11 G20 that looks pretty nice. So if the car is solid I'm gonna go that route. Thanks for all the advice!!!!!
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