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Great information guys. This will help a ton for future troubleshooting. My brother was getting some weird idle problems and I guess it was the high idle sensor not being grounded.
Brent
__________________ Coach - EEN Member/The Fist Don't F with me!
1993 NX 2000 -- Slate Grey Metallic bitches
1999 SE-L -- Turbo stuff on it
Great information guys. This will help a ton for future troubleshooting. My brother was getting some weird idle problems and I guess it was the high idle sensor not being grounded.
come on people, give up the info on this damn. I accidently broken one of the screws. U know the one, the ecu is grounded to. I was tryin to reground my MAf. So I grounded them all to that one screw I have left. Is this going to be a problem? Also is there anywhere else I can ground these wires too? Thanx
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91' se-r (sold)
93' se-r In the works.. And giving me the blues.
one thing worth checking is the injector harnesses. they tend to corrode up. i have a "special tool" i clean them. its actually homemade. you just take some old wiper blades and remove the rubber. the metal you have left is really hard stuff and works good once you rough it up. cut off like six inches and rough it with a grinder. then to clean connectors you spray in some battery cleaner and scrub with new "special tool". when done rinse with a quick spray of brake clean. this also works on other important engine sensors like tps, maf, egt, etc.
also, when sentras come in to my store with bad idles, the first thing i do is slap on iacv/aac(b13-b14). cures most of 'em.
I just swap to a jdm and had an idle problem my throttle cable was alittle to tight so I dissconected it while the motor was running then I losened the cable to get the nut as close to the bracket hooked it back up with a little tension and it idle like a new car.
Thank you very much for the information. I have some problems at the idle mode. The engine trembles. Also when the car is moving in the second gear (manual transmission) and engine is 2000-2500 rev and pull my leg off the gasoline pedal, the engine body seems like moving, turning, towards to the road at front. It looks like, I do not know, there is no gasoline gonig to the engine.
Anyway I try to follow the instructions that you gave me. Would you tell me please what FSM and AAC valve is?
positive crankcase ventilation...... it lets harmful fumes escape the crankcase so that they can be burned up in the engine. This keeps them from slugging up the engine oil. It should only work at idle or decel.
what do you mean with 'When pinching blow-by hose'? What hose are you reffering? Thank you very much
Quote:
Originally posted by mpg9999 I noticed a decent amount of people here have idle problems, so I have typed up the FSM trouble diagnostics for an unstable idle. Enjoy:
1. Check EGR control valve for sticking (stick your hand under it and see if its stuck).
2. Perform power balance test: When disconnecting each injector harness connector one at a time, is there any cylinder which does not produce a momentary engine speed drop? If not, go to step 6.
3. Check Injector: Remove distributor from engine (crank angle sensor harness connector should remain connected). Disconnect ignition wires. Turn ignition switch ON. (Do not start engine). When rotating distributor shaft slowly by hand, does each injector make a n operating sound?
4. Check Ignition spark: Disconnect ignition wire from spark plug. Connect a known good spark plug to the ignition wire. Place end of spark plug against a suitable ground and crank engine. Check for spark. If no spark, check your coil, power transistor, and their circuits.
5. Check Spark plugs: Remove the spark plugs and check for fouling, etc.
6. Check Fuel pressure: Release fuel pressure to zero (pull fuel pump fuse and let engine die). Install fuel pressure gauge and check fuel pressure (at idle, it should be about 36 psi).
7. Check O2 sensor: Set “Exhaust gas sensor monitor” in the self diagnostic mode II. Maintaining engine at 2,000 rpms under no load, check to make sure that the red led on the ECU or the check engine light goes on and off more tan 5 times during 10 seconds.
8. Check for Intake air leak: When pinching blow-by hose, does the engine speed rise? If so, search for a leak.
9. Check idle adj. Screw for clogging: Disconnect TPS harness. Can you set engine rpm at 750 plus or minus 50 rpms by turning the screw? If not, check for a clog.
10. Do a compression check.
One thing this left out is checking the IAA. I would defiantly try that too if you are having idle issues. To check it, disconnect the AAC valve harness. If your engine speed does not drop, you may have a problem with your AAC valve.
damn it my car is doing this right now. i'll try all those suggestions yall posted. btw, my car sputtered at 6500 rpm last night at the track and felt like my car was choked. i could only hit 15.8's. anybody had this problem???
sorry guys but what it means PVC?, does all engines have one, im talking like JAP-AMERICAN-Other countrys(Like mine its a primera 98 with a jap sr20de without emision control sistems)
crazy4myb14 , chek your spark plug holes i had gotten some water into one of those holes and it was sputtering at high rpm range
True to that, I had this prob. Sounded like my exhaust what bad. but water seeped into the #1 Spark Plug Wire Cylinder, and Rusted the Wire Connector. Compressed Air helped this one out.
Now my problem is a knocking sound while slowing down, when slowing from an street speed, my engine doesnt sputter, but knocks at 2000Rpms... can someone Direct me to a thread this may be on?
thanks,
James G.
