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Go Back   SR20 Forum > Main Forums > SR20DE Technical Corner




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Old 08-11-2003, 07:14 PM   #41 (permalink)
Sunny
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look into where the #1 injector is and follow the intake manifold where it curves, right underneath it is a cylinder looking thing and a screw that would fit a flathead screwdriver.

get the car into timing mode before adjusting idle. have a friend sit and watch your tach while you adjust idle (turn screw clockwise to lower idle, counter to raise)

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Quote:
Originally Posted by no_monkeybiznus
For the life of me I cant find the idle adjusting screw on my 92 sentra se-r. thanks.
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Old 09-08-2003, 01:11 PM   #42 (permalink)
babybubbla
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hi my sr18 is giving alil trouble sometimes it starts good and idle good and then some times itu have to swing it for like 15 sec's and then a cloud of black smoke ,change injectors same problem need some HELP PLEASE
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Old 09-12-2003, 12:03 PM   #43 (permalink)
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After cleaning the throttle body with TB cleaner, my idle jumped sky high. I twisted the idle screw to the lowest and still idle at 950rpm instead of 750rpm. Any idea of what the TB cleaner could have done?
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Old 09-12-2003, 12:37 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Adjusting my TPS helped my idle. I would do this first, then base idle, then timing first. Then if any problems are found in the other steps, recheck idle and timing after fixing everything.
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Old 09-12-2003, 12:45 PM   #45 (permalink)
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99se-l, make sure that your throttle cable and cruise control cables arn't to tight causing the throttle to not close all the way. Next check your TPS voltage and adjust it to 0.5 volts closed throttle and 4.0 volts WOT if neccisarry. Now to set your ECU to the new TPS setting just start your car with the TPS unplugged and then plug it in while running. Thes two steps will make sure that your throttle body is working properly. Now check your base idle and timing.
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Old 09-14-2003, 07:53 PM   #46 (permalink)
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I had a very bad idle problem to the point that it would die out. All i did was too a buddys advice and cleaned the throttle body and it made hell of a difference.

I noticed that many people dont know all of the car terms such as TPS and PVC so my question to the forum members is if there is a "technical terms page" on this forum which would help out a lot of poeple?
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Old 09-14-2003, 09:31 PM   #47 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NCSUse-r
99se-l, make sure that your throttle cable and cruise control cables arn't to tight causing the throttle to not close all the way. Next check your TPS voltage and adjust it to 0.5 volts closed throttle and 4.0 volts WOT if neccisarry. Now to set your ECU to the new TPS setting just start your car with the TPS unplugged and then plug it in while running. Thes two steps will make sure that your throttle body is working properly. Now check your base idle and timing.
My TPS voltage is perfect at 4.5 closed and 4.01 at wot. It's been at this voltage since the last time I checked which was a long time ago.
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Old 09-16-2003, 12:46 PM   #48 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by strobe14
I noticed that many people dont know all of the car terms such as TPS and PVC so my question to the forum members is if there is a "technical terms page" on this forum which would help out a lot of poeple?
http://www.se-r.net/general/abbreviations.html
(they should add more)

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Old 01-19-2004, 02:37 AM   #49 (permalink)
Dropped89
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you know the idle problem could be this


lol i finally see what i think is the problem. right b4 my stinkin nose!!!
although i havnt tried fixing it yet im doing that tomarow morn.
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Old 02-02-2004, 12:14 AM   #50 (permalink)
forcefed
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idle

One thing I was told to check by a buddy at Nissan is the iac valve, he said these come in all the time with this. Take it off and soak the inside with B-12 carb cleaner and it fixes it right up. He said they are bad for carbon build up. My car did it with on 30k on it and only got worse175k now. Cleaned it and fixed. Blame this on stupid egr.
Also if the air tube from the vavle cover to the tb hose is run open filter at the valve cover, it can also cause this(did in a 96 200sx) don't know why?
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Old 02-20-2004, 05:39 PM   #51 (permalink)
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This is xs180sx from Australia (S13 SR20DET with various mods, next step turbo upgrade). I posted about a week ago re a specific idle problem. Your write up was great but didn't solve my problem. Haven't tried O2 sensor the diagnostic yet (not sure where it is). The FSM you refer to, is this the famous (very expensive) service manual? I've been considering getting one, but the only place seems to be the internet @ A$400 - no shop of any kind in my city (Adelaide) has them or even has access to them.. Not vey keen about parting with $$$ thru the ether, with no potential result (recieving the manual). How does one get a hold of one of these manuals?

Regards,

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Old 03-19-2004, 01:04 PM   #52 (permalink)
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Re: Idle problem solution

Quote:
Originally Posted by aknapp
My NX idled like a b*tch for months. I went through most of the things already mentioned...no luck. Then, while it was at Rosen's in Richmond getting UR pulleys installed, another SE-R came in with the same idle problem. The solution for both of our cars? Simple...Engine Elec (B) fuse in the fusebox in the dash! Replaced the fuse, and she's idled fine since.

Maybe this will help...maybe not...but certainly worth checking. Cheap and easy!

Good Luck!

BTW, this fuse circuit has, among other things, the O2 sensor, something the engine/ECU definitely wants input from.
The fuse was blown or just shady?
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Old 05-28-2004, 08:31 PM   #53 (permalink)
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Re: Idle problem solution

Quote:
Originally Posted by mpg9999
Check EGR control valve for sticking (stick your hand under it and see if its stuck).
How much should the EGR valve open? Whenever I touch mine slightly, the engine dies down a whole lot, but when i give it gas I dont feel it moving at all. Heres a picture of the crusty ol valve of mine

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Old 05-28-2004, 08:51 PM   #54 (permalink)
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Re: Idle problem solution

Quote:
Originally Posted by primerap11
sorry guys but what it means PVC?, does all engines have one, im talking like JAP-AMERICAN-Other countrys(Like mine its a primera 98 with a jap sr20de without emision control sistems)
PCV valve is right there in the red circle. It stands for Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve. Basically it feeds the crankcase blow-by gases back into the manifold to be burned off for emissions purposes.

Last edited by La_Noche : 10-12-2005 at 01:51 AM.
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Old 05-29-2004, 04:55 AM   #55 (permalink)
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Re: Idle problem solution

got this problem with my idling it freaks out everytime i open the a/c.. BTW i have a japanese primera as a donor eng. does it differ? since i don't have the emision sys?
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Old 05-29-2004, 03:50 PM   #56 (permalink)
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Re: Idle problem solution

thats weird. whenever i turn on my a/c (which doesnt feel like compressing my R12) my idle raises a little and idles a little stronger. however, whenever i slow down to stop in second gear, my idle goes to like 300-400rpms and starts sputtering.
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Old 05-29-2004, 08:06 PM   #57 (permalink)
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Re: Idle problem solution

Quote:
Originally Posted by raene
The fuse was blown or just shady?
The fuse was blown.
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Old 11-01-2004, 01:36 AM   #58 (permalink)
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idle problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by aknapp
The fuse was blown.
i have jdm sr20de and i have the idle problem and i dont understand what more i have to eliminate the problem .. the trothle is complete close in the car i reground maf and the problem persist.
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Old 03-21-2005, 07:53 PM   #59 (permalink)
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Ok, I tried the EGR trick to see if my slow to come down idle was that, it wasnt, but I unplugged t he AAC (thats the thing near the oil filter, no?) one plug, then the other and had no drop in engine speed at all. Am I supposed to unplug both at the same time?
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Old 03-29-2005, 10:44 AM   #60 (permalink)
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One is the Fast Idle Control Device (the plug that has a short wire harness with the plug on the end) and only operates when the A/C is on to bump the idle up so that the car will idle properly under the added load of the compressor. So unplugging it won't change anything if the A/C is off. The other harness, that is right on the device, that's the IACV-AAC valve.

That "electronics (B)" fuse is the fuse for the IACV-AAC valve.
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Last edited by Toolapcfan : 03-29-2005 at 11:09 AM.
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