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Old 03-29-2005, 11:32 PM   #61 (permalink)
510&SE-R
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I unplugged both connectors and neither affected anything. Could I have killed it with the 6 cans of brakleen and carb cleaner I blasted into the plenum?
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Old 04-10-2005, 11:43 PM   #62 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toolapcfan
That "electronics (B)" fuse is the fuse for the IACV-AAC valve.
Rob, did we ever check that fuse on my car? I can't remember.

I want to know if anyone here has a UKDM swap, still uses the USDM ECU and has a good idle. I'm very curious.
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Old 04-12-2005, 12:25 PM   #63 (permalink)
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I didn't check any Todd. You should check it when you get off work. That'd be nice if it was something that simple. I'm going to study the vacuum diagrams and we can take a look at those. I'd also like to get under the car and look at a few things. See if something stands out.
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Old 06-27-2005, 04:21 PM   #64 (permalink)
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hi all ,
nice article ,and thanks for the help ...

I have problem and I hope that you could help me with it .

three weeks ago I finished my project 2001 Nissan premier :
http://www.sr20forum.com/showthread....74#post1112674
the list of parts I have :
S3 cams from JWT.
I ported the head and install bigger valves .
I ported the intake manifold as much as I could .
255 fuel pump .
720 injectors .
JWT.ECU .
Ford mass air flow sensor .
8.5 compression pistons .
H rods .
I had to spend a lot of money and effort and research because the vehicle was with an SR20DE and not SR20DET. so it's non turbo ...

the numbers I've got so for :

- 260 on 11psi
- 295 on 15psi
- 350 on 19psi
- 382 on 24psi


The problem I'm having is a really annoying idle. I started Car in the morning and I have my 1300 RPM after warming up it goes down to about 1000 or 900 .if I got it slowly with no boost I'm fine .but if I slam it couple times than the problems start coming . I boast it up in third gear for example and then put it in neutral the RPM would come down from let's say 7000 all the way down to 200 black smoke will start coming out and RPM start going up to 1000 and down to 200 if I'm lucky it will stabilize on 1300 or 1400 ,or it will die and I have to start the engine again .
on coosting or light throttle the engine would jerk .
I've done a lot of some research , I have changed the idle control motor , made idle relearn . adjusted timing . and checks for vacuum leaks .

I help you can help me , and I am willing to answer any questions that might might help me .

thanks a million
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Old 06-28-2005, 01:28 PM   #65 (permalink)
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Quick question here is what I have on my NX2k pretty much stock. I had a ton of problems with my ignition which I think is fixed now here is a lil summary..

370 injectors
Oem sentra ecu 91
K&N intake
NGK plugs (new)
Distributor and rotor (new)
Timing set to 19 degrees

Checked Pretty much everything that was on this thread. My car kept dying at lights and stops signs so what I did was turn the idle screw up so my rpms were one notch over 1000rpms on a stand still. The car sounds good and doesnt die out anymore. Driving around it drives great. Is this going to be okay to drive around like this with the higher idle or should I keep messing with it to get the rpms to 800 like the manual says. When I do go to the recomended rpm it seems to die out.
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Old 07-03-2005, 12:02 PM   #66 (permalink)
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alright guys. i just bought a 91 se-r and the idle is a little jumpy but it mostly just makes the car vibrate alot. the rpms only go between like 800-850 but the car rattles like crazy when it is idling. could it be worn motor mounts or the fact that it is a jdm motor and it doesnt have the egr system or the aac valve like the usdm motors?
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Old 07-05-2005, 12:26 AM   #67 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nizmo559
Quick question here is what I have on my NX2k pretty much stock. I had a ton of problems with my ignition which I think is fixed now here is a lil summary..

370 injectors
Oem sentra ecu 91
K&N intake
NGK plugs (new)
Distributor and rotor (new)
Timing set to 19 degrees

Checked Pretty much everything that was on this thread. My car kept dying at lights and stops signs so what I did was turn the idle screw up so my rpms were one notch over 1000rpms on a stand still. The car sounds good and doesnt die out anymore. Driving around it drives great. Is this going to be okay to drive around like this with the higher idle or should I keep messing with it to get the rpms to 800 like the manual says. When I do go to the recomended rpm it seems to die out.
How you gonna be running a stock ECU with 370cc injectors? I think thats a big part of the idling problem...
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look i dont feel like searching its either you give me the answer or you shut the fu*k up
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Easy rule when going turbo.... upgrade EVERYTHING. Because eventually you will need to.
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Old 07-05-2005, 12:28 AM   #68 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silvia1320
alright guys. i just bought a 91 se-r and the idle is a little jumpy but it mostly just makes the car vibrate alot. the rpms only go between like 800-850 but the car rattles like crazy when it is idling. could it be worn motor mounts or the fact that it is a jdm motor and it doesnt have the egr system or the aac valve like the usdm motors?
Check the passenger side motor mount: the most likely cause is the liquid filled section has ruptured. You can get a new OEM one or get a PROTHANE or ES motor mount insert set. As for the idle, which ECM are you using? Did you swap over all the USDM sensors to the JDM motor?
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Old 07-12-2005, 12:33 AM   #69 (permalink)
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Its always nice when people respond to your post of help.
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Old 07-12-2005, 02:33 AM   #70 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SENTRASER
Its always nice when people respond to your post of help.
YEP.... U CAN SAY THAT AGIAN
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Old 07-12-2005, 02:40 AM   #71 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4x4
hi all ,
nice article ,and thanks for the help ...

I have problem and I hope that you could help me with it .

three weeks ago I finished my project 2001 Nissan premier :
http://www.sr20forum.com/showthread....74#post1112674
the list of parts I have :
S3 cams from JWT.
I ported the head and install bigger valves .
I ported the intake manifold as much as I could .
255 fuel pump .
720 injectors .
JWT.ECU .
Ford mass air flow sensor .
8.5 compression pistons .
H rods .
I had to spend a lot of money and effort and research because the vehicle was with an SR20DE and not SR20DET. so it's non turbo ...

the numbers I've got so for :

- 260 on 11psi
- 295 on 15psi
- 350 on 19psi
- 382 on 24psi


The problem I'm having is a really annoying idle. I started Car in the morning and I have my 1300 RPM after warming up it goes down to about 1000 or 900 .if I got it slowly with no boost I'm fine .but if I slam it couple times than the problems start coming . I boast it up in third gear for example and then put it in neutral the RPM would come down from let's say 7000 all the way down to 200 black smoke will start coming out and RPM start going up to 1000 and down to 200 if I'm lucky it will stabilize on 1300 or 1400 ,or it will die and I have to start the engine again .
on coosting or light throttle the engine would jerk .
I've done a lot of some research , I have changed the idle control motor , made idle relearn . adjusted timing . and checks for vacuum leaks .

I help you can help me , and I am willing to answer any questions that might might help me .

thanks a million
Have you checked the TPS voltage? What is a nissan Primier? Did you have to rewire the harness at all for the JWT ECU? Are you using a recirculated BOV? Just a few questions to try to help you out.

~Ryan
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Old 08-04-2005, 03:57 AM   #72 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SENTRASER
Have you checked the TPS voltage? What is a nissan Primier? Did you have to rewire the harness at all for the JWT ECU? Are you using a recirculated BOV? Just a few questions to try to help you out.

~Ryan
Sorry for the misspelling :
- it is a P11 Nissan premiera 2001 .
- the TPS voltage on the idle is around .67 and that I believe is normal ( isn't it ?)
- no the ECU was sent to JWT after I sent them a couple of photos from the inside and outside of the ECU . they later told me that they could do it with no problem . it took them for months to finish its saw nothing was done except the resistors and the mass airflow sensor for the Ford .
- I'm using APEX BOV that twin chamber. and the release is to the atmosphere .


thank you for your help
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Old 08-05-2005, 05:59 AM   #73 (permalink)
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The TPS closed is supposed to be .45-.5 and right around 4.0v at WOT.
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Old 08-09-2005, 11:14 AM   #74 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VicK
Thank you very much for the information. I have some problems at the idle mode. The engine trembles. Also when the car is moving in the second gear (manual transmission) and engine is 2000-2500 rev and pull my leg off the gasoline pedal, the engine body seems like moving, turning, towards to the road at front. It looks like, I do not know, there is no gasoline gonig to the engine.
Mine is doing the same now after my swap. Did you figure out what was your prob?

Mine's wierd, it does the same as above the constant 2k - 2.5k idle and when rolling and not touching the gas it's wanting to keep going. We are gonna pull off the IAC valve and I'll double check the throttle cable as well. I was looking at the throttle cable yesterday and it looks fine and it's tight when I mess with it though.
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Old 08-26-2005, 12:59 PM   #75 (permalink)
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You mentioned about checking your injectors. Disconnect each injector while engine is running. If the idle drops, injector is working. If idle dosen't drop, injector is not working. This is what I've found with my idle issue. Good write up.
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Old 09-28-2005, 09:22 PM   #76 (permalink)
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My search brought me to this post. My apologies for being a n00b, but I'm assuming this thread was started for several different kinds of idle issues and I'd like to know if my issue can be solved by any of the stated solutions in the first post.

I recently bought a '92 se-r with IHE, fidanza flywheel, and a JDM sr20, no turbo. My issue is as such; while the car is idling, the rpms seem to stay at 2k and then dip to around 1.6k every 2-3 seconds and then back up to 2k. It's very strange. Any assistance is appreciated.

Thanks,
Rami.
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Old 09-28-2005, 09:45 PM   #77 (permalink)
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Check or replace all your vacuum hoses, some are hard to see.
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Old 09-29-2005, 04:39 AM   #78 (permalink)
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three letters for you, MAF
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Old 12-15-2005, 08:14 AM   #79 (permalink)
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Hi guys i am new to this forum and i asked alot of people but no body can tell me why i got this problem.

I had my car tuned by CRD and everything was good for 2 weeks and suddnely it started shaking on cold start and worm idle.

i had my mechanic clean my idle speed controller and afm and all the other sensors to do with idle.

the idle is a little better but it still shakes.

i got a power FC and no setting was changed it just suddnely happend.
Could i get some help on this please.

The car vibrates alot from say 30 degres to aorund 75 and then its kinda normal
but it all has to do with the same thing which i cannot find.

Please help
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