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Old 07-13-2008, 06:25 PM   #101 (permalink)
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can some one help me i have a siliva s14 and its not starting its geting spark and fuel and turning over but wont sart can someone please help
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Old 08-02-2008, 08:27 AM   #102 (permalink)
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Ok. new CTS, rechecked everything like
everyone else does, now I have the dreaded cold start stall. I am too thru.
EDIT> Check the auxilary idle control valve, I posted pics and a how to in the technical section.
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Sudden draws of power at the hands of a sub(s) playing some Too Short will eat away at any alternator

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Old 09-23-2008, 04:10 PM   #103 (permalink)
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ive went through the checklist and my idle problem still persists. it just will not want to idle and then when holding the gas to get the idle to stay steady it surges to bout 6k then falls back down
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Old 10-04-2008, 01:03 PM   #104 (permalink)
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UPDATE...my cold idle, car dying out unless I hold the throttle open a bit was solved by replacing IACV bypass valve. Definately the culprit.
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Old 02-28-2009, 09:58 AM   #105 (permalink)
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Coolant temp sensor fixed my cold idle problem
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Old 04-16-2009, 03:38 AM   #106 (permalink)
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Variations on the problem...

Ho-kay, I'm stuck on the idle adjustment step described at http://www.sr20forum.com/technical-i...your-idle.html. Turning the screwheaded knob on the right side near the oil filter does NOTHING, NADA.

Codes are 34, knock sensor (old, used to be not a problem, more below) and 11, crankshaft position sensor (new, mighta got knocked on the dirt road this afternoon...exactly WHERE is that thing before I crawl under tomorrow morning???).

Here are the symptoms:

1. Cold start is okay, has always been okay and reliable. It sometimes idles a bit high for a while, then dies when the cold start cuts out. Sometimes lopes up and down, 1800 rpm down to staggering below 500, but not always.

2. Giving a bit of throttle to keep the thing running when warm is difficult to control below 1500 rpm.

3. Code 34 has been there for two years--stripped the threads in the head and haven't had it out to heli-coil it. Loc-Tite thread repair don't work, not strong enough at that size. Put together a nut on a longer bolt to torque the thing down to operating "squish", but that didn't work. Concluded that the thread repair stuff wasn't allowing a clear enough transmittal of the knocks.

Strange improvement!
3a. It WAS doing the no knock sensor sluggish-power ON! dance until I changed the spark plugs a few weeks ago...and put another quarter-turn on that bogus knock sensor setup I had (I'd even checked for broken wires to the plug last year). Runs fine, goes fast up the hills again, smooth running except for that blasted idle.

3b. The idle had gotten worse (as in all the time instead of half the time) a month ago when I drove over a big rock that rolled up and whacked the exhaust pipe just in front of the catalytic converter. Looks like the rear gasket on that thing is leaking--smudges around the heat shield now.

3c. The front of the CAT now generates a metallic whirring type sound when the idle is stumbling. At first I thought the big bump had somehow knocked the rear bearing next to the transaxle, 'cause it sounded a bit like a spinning bearing and from the front sounded like it was coming from near the flywheel. Parked the thing for a few days until I could look closer. NOT! the sound's coming from the front of the CAT, and is strongest when the engine is stumbling at idle before dieing. My over-educated much mechanics-dumb mind says it's rich exhaust exploding in the CAT. Can that happen??? The sound also comes up under load at speed when it's close to WOT.

3d. When the idle is stumbling, the exhaust smells pretty strong and I sometimes get a fuel smell mixed in.

4. The code 11 was NOT there Saturday, but is there today. NO CHANGE in behavior, though.

Until I hear from us'ns on the Board, I'll switch to the procedures in this thread. Better go re-connect the TPS before I forget...

Any ideas?
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Old 12-07-2009, 09:49 PM   #107 (permalink)
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what would cause the car to die after pushing in the clutch or going into neutral while coming to a stop (like at a stop sign or stop light) It doesn't do this while the motor is cold, only at operating temp. I'm thinking maybe its a vac leak somewhere but idk, the motor sometimes hesitates when cold but doesn't stall like it does after its warmed up. Other than that the idle is perfectly normal. I'm going to replace the vac lines soon, anyone have any input on what else it could be?
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Old 12-08-2009, 10:13 AM   #108 (permalink)
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^ have you blocked off the egr?
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Old 12-08-2009, 09:55 PM   #109 (permalink)
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no I haven't, upon closer inspection I found a leak from the vac line leading to the egr. I may just remove it. Where would I buy a block off plate?
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Old 04-20-2010, 10:02 PM   #110 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GHSER7 View Post
Mine is doing the same now after my swap. Did you figure out what was your prob?

Mine's wierd, it does the same as above the constant 2k - 2.5k idle and when rolling and not touching the gas it's wanting to keep going. We are gonna pull off the IAC valve and I'll double check the throttle cable as well. I was looking at the throttle cable yesterday and it looks fine and it's tight when I mess with it though.
im new here i have a jdm p11 with w11 avenir det
i an gettin this jerking of the engine when coasting
the idle bounces erratically from 1100 to 400 and the car jerks
sometimes if i tap on the gas pedal the idle returns to approx 1000. sometimes it goes as high as 1400 and stays.
my system is totally stock with stock 370,s stock w11 maf, stock fpr and w11 ecu. oh and i am running a recirculated bov

Last edited by smp11det; 04-20-2010 at 10:04 PM.
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Old 12-16-2010, 11:00 PM   #111 (permalink)
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I just solved a cold idle problem I've been having for about two years.
The car would stumble at idle when the coolant temp. was under 120*. As it turned out, the fuel pressure regulator was running 2 PSI too high (38 PSI at idle instead of 36). This was only causing a problem at cold idle because the O2 sensor had not yet warmed up to read correctly and give feedback showing that the car was running too rich.
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